why aren't rotaries more popular?

wannafbody

wannafbody
the rotary can remove more defects faster making a detail quicker and you can use less aggressive products and pads-so why aren't rotaries more popular?
 
I'm fixin' to find out what I can accomplish with a rotary just as soon as I get my backing plate and pads in from CMA.
 
I think it's the fear of damaging paint with a rotary. PCs are pretty idiot proof.

There are a bunch of Autopians who use rotarys regularly.
 
I think it's because most Autopian cars don't have defects bad enough to require a rotary. I bought one, used it once, have no more need for it.



Among the professionals here I'm sure it's more popular, but among the rank & file it's like owning a gas-powered ripsaw.





Tom
 
IMO..... The pro's & con's of a rotary are:



Pro's

-Hands down, the quickest way to remove defects.

-Adds additional depth to your polish. You will take your finish to another level.

-Multi-purpose tool. I have a DW849. I can dial it down to 1000 for light polishing, or up for defect removal.

-I haven't used/seen them all, but the ones I have are very well made.





Con's

-Burn the paint. You need to focus on what you're doing, and keep the machine moving.

-You need to know the correct pad/chemical/speed combo. Polish with cutting abilities work significantly different vs. the PC.

-You have tape off trim, windows, etc... This will do help reduce clean up time, and protect trim parts that the rotary can easily remove from your car.

-Learning curve. Most people are used to working a PC with back and forth arm movements. If you do that with a rotary, you'll get a ride across your paint. Some call this 'buffer hop'.

-Sling. This will go away/or be greatly reduced after you learn the appropriate way to prime your pad and paint surface. You'll also learn that less polish is better.



Experience with a rotary pretty removes most of the Con's.
 
Yeah, I just don't need the extra power very often. Since I find the Cyclos more user-friendly, and don't have to tape, worry about splatter, inspect for holograms, etc., I'd rather just use them if they'll get the job done. Similar to Mosca's analogy, I don't get out the chainsaw if a hand saw will do the job.
 
I have found the limit of my PC. My mom's car has some really bad swirls, and I'd like to be able to remove them, as well as bad swirls on customer cars.



My Maxima definitely has no need for a rotary to be used on it. But customer cars are nothing like mine.



I also want to do a transformation on my dad's van.
 
I think it is accepted that the rotary can produce certain results that the PC cant. The PC is a great and versatile tool but it does have its limitations and when I bought my makita I saw those limitations dissapear. I guess my self and many others are scared of burning the paint. But I have used the rotary with great success and will continue to practice more and more with it.
 
Burning the paint maybe one reason, but unless you detail a lot of cars, it doesn't get that much use. You really can't constantly detail 1 or 2 cars with the without removing too much paint.



Its true it removes defects much quicker and with more ease than the PC, but will it get that much use in your arsenal is the question?
 
I've read even some pros must follow their rotary work with the PC or Cyclo to burnish the paint to it's maximum( especially on black) and for those of us less skilled :o, to correct any conditions in the paint left behind by the rotary.
 
people are just scared. I have both a rotary and a pc and even now, when i do a car that has barely any defects, i don't even consider my pc. the rotary does much nicer work and in a much smaller amount of time. As far as "finishing up" with a pc, why not just put on a polinishing or finishing pad on the rotary and some FPII and do the same thing? i dont know.. maybe the rotary just came natural to me, but i think its MUCH more effect than my pc at polishing a car. my pc is in every way inferior to my rotary.



Vernon
 
On rotaries don't make to much heat in one place all at once, it takes heat for faster paint corrections and polishing.

Watch out for the edges on rotaries, edges has less paint

Learn how to use the trigger to slow down on the rotary

tape plastic, rubber trim, tail lights ect



Thing that can happen when using a rotary

Antenna ripped off or the pad flies off 20 ft away

Trim, windshield washer tits melted or torn up

Mirrors ripped off or broken

Paint worn off on edge/s (done in a sec)

Burned arms from the pad

Contamination on surface (small rock) can scourer down to the metal



Don't let me scare you on using a rotary. A rotary is a great tool to use for paint corrections and polishing.

On learning how to use a rotary just take it easy go slow don't stay to long in one spot, stay away from the edges if doing the edges go vary lightly, tape the trim, plastic ect ect



I have been using a rotary for a few years and I'm far from being a expert, I use a rotary mostly on older cars or cars that has been neglected. I use it for paint corrections and removing scratches and for glazing. I can't go without the rotary its a time saver. The PC will not even come close what the rotary can do on paint corrections. The PC is great for general polishing and gloss polishing.
 
See I have a rotary, but I find that I am scared to use it. Plus the only pads that I have are the variable edge pads so I use the edges only which does not let me cover a very large area. I guess if someone could recomend some flat pads I would like to try those so that I can use the rotary more. I would love to polish with it at around 1000 rpms like you see the pros do but I cant with the variable contact pads.
 
DetailGirl said:
I guess if someone could recomend some flat pads I would like to try those so that I can use the rotary more.



Propel pads.

http://www.exceldetail.com :wavey



I haven't tried mine with the rotary yet (haven't received the rotary yet) but I assume they will work fine. I ordered a 5" velcro backing plate from Autogeek and the Propel pads fit a 5" velcro plate.
 
:nixweiss



$5000 to repaint this fender if I burn through it?



1052004_RR_Phantom_RMG_16_fender.jpg




Believe me, if get a rotary, I will be practicing on junkyard fenders for quite some time before I use one on a customer's car.
 
The other day I tried my new rotary for the first time. I used a Megs 6-1/2 inch flat pad. I was working on a hood that was severely scratched. I went over it several times trying Hi-Temp MC leveler with a polishing pad. Then I switched to another brand white pad that was concave and maybe only 6 inches. On that I used PB 2.5. In the end I squirted some IP on the white pad just to see what would happen.



I think the scratches are too deep to be buffed out, but it did shine up better and the best part, I didn't burn or scuff anything. I found as long as I was on a flat surface I could control the rotary pretty well by just a little tilt to go one direction and then tilt the other way to go the other direction. When I got off the level flat surface it was a whole new ball game. Much more difficult to control. Product wetness also had an effect on control.
 
wannafbody said:
the rotary can remove more defects faster making a detail quicker and you can use less aggressive products and pads-so why aren't rotaries more popular?



No room for error...
 
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