Which Jeweling Polish ?

EdLancer said:
Is Meg`s M205 considered a "finishing polish" these days ? I might simply just get a bottle of Meg`s Ultimate Polish to try as they are available at large brick and mortars stores here and they go on special from time to time. I calculated that two bottles of 16oz Ultimate Polish is cheaper than a 32oz bottle of M205 that I have to order online. Since I got some many detailing products I haven`t bought any new stuff for the past 8 years. My tin of FK1000P is on its way can`t wait to try it out next week when I detail my own ride.
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Yes M205 and Ultimate Polish are both finishing polishes. UP is derived from M205 but has less cut and more polishing oils compared to M205.
 
The Guz said:
Yes M205 and Ultimate Polish are both finishing polishes. UP is derived from M205 but has less cut and more polishing oils compared to M205.
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I think UP is right up my ally less aggressive than M205 and more in tune with Meg`s #82 in aggressiveness, more polishing oils just the right choice for my own well kept vehicles.
I just placed a huge order for detailing supplies and the only item that was not on my list was the polish because I couldn`t decide on which one. Funny how sometimes the right products is right in front of us ! ...LoL
 
The Guz- Oh gee, *more* TSO than M205?!? And I can`t stand M205 primarily over that issue. I`d *never* get those oils off to my satisfaction without more work than I`m ever gonna do. I could rant for ages about how disappointed I was with M205 but it was the only nondiminishing Finishing Polish available for a while. Still have that [freakin`] gallon of it sitting around...

EdLancer- Can you tell I`d recommend a different Finishing Polish?!? ;)

Sure hope you like the FK1000P, what with all the praise I heap upon it. I expect that you will, but then there`s Finick, who can`t get his to flash off right...wonder what`s up with him...

All this talk of burnishing/tumbling/etc. is gonna get me all revved up about stuff I`ve been happy without! Sold off..thinking...?three? tumblers back around 2002.
 
Except for the bottles, which were apparently designed by a complete idiot, S40 is very nice, especially on softer paint. A bit less effective on really hard paint. I prefer it far more than Menzerna 3800/4500 which I was often never really sure was doing much.

Have used with both the LC Crimson Hydrotech pad and Scholls Honey Spider pad, both Flex 3401 and Rupes 15.

Very little product needed on pad, works thru its cycle quicker than Menz 3800/4500. I think Scholls refers to it as their Rapid Diminishing Abrasive Technology or some such marketing mumbo jumbo.

I`m too chicken-sh*t to ever pick up a rotary so no idea how it works with that.
DaveT435 said:
I just just got some of this polish. Really looking forward to trying it out. Are you using s DA or rotary with it?
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jrock645 said:
I think [Accumulator] likes HD Polish, another great option for a fine finishing polish.
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Right. Haven`t tried the Polish+ though. I`d try Griot`s Perfecting Creme in a heartbeat too.

No more diminishing abrasives for me, though if I *did* want to go that route I still have plenty of 1Z High Gloss, which was my fave Finishing Polish for a long, long time. That`s what I used for burnishing back when I did such stuff, and it was one of the *VERY* rare polishes I would often "work to powder". Zero issues from doing that.
 
Im with Budget on S40. One of the best finishing polishers on soft Japanese paints. I use it on top of S20 AIO and with a right technique you can get a little extra gloss out of clear coat.
Also keep in mind that there is a technique tweak required (IMHO) when switching from smart to dat. With DAT i tend to hit the clear coat harder at start to get the extra cut and then ease off to let the finer particles do the work.
With SMART, you can work it the same. The only consideration is the amount of work time you can get out of before oils dry out.

Cheers

Sent from my MI MAX using Tapatalk
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
Except for the bottles, which were apparently designed by a complete idiot, S40 is very nice, especially on softer paint. A bit less effective on really hard paint. I prefer it far more than Menzerna 3800/4500 which I was often never really sure was doing much.

Have used with both the LC Crimson Hydrotech pad and Scholls Honey Spider pad, both Flex 3401 and Rupes 15.

Very little product needed on pad, works thru its cycle quicker than Menz 3800/4500. I think Scholls refers to it as their Rapid Diminishing Abrasive Technology or some such marketing mumbo jumbo.

I`m too chicken-sh*t to ever pick up a rotary so no idea how it works with that.
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Thanks for the response. Looking forward to using it. I`ve found that a little more aggressive polish is fine on really hard paints. A rotary really isn`t anything to be afraid of. I still have problems not leaving holograms on sharp curves on black cars.

I`m almost completely set up for painting so I guess I`ll find a panel that has ares on it like the ones I have problems with and practice...repaint...practice lol. I`ve finished out a few flat panels with a Jeweling polish and pad with a rotary.

I may have to go 100% rotary soon anyway.
 
DaveT435 said:
A rotary really isn`t anything to be afraid of...
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Right. I`m no Rotary Meister by any means, but I`ve *NEVER* damaged paint with one. Not starting out as an ignorant kid, not hammering plastic panels decades later, and if *I* can avoid an "oops" I`d expect anybody could. I never even did the "deliberately burn a panel just to see what it`s like"!
I still have problems not leaving holograms on sharp curves on black cars.
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I commend you for posting that! Heh heh, let alone here at Autopia :D Same here, and if there are holograms on black then there are (much harder to see) holograms on other colors as well. My wife and I have spent countless hours inspecting for `em lest something be visible weeks later under some oddball conditions.

So how will you deal with those holograms if you *do* go all-rotary?
 
David Fermani said:
Can’t beat the gloss you get from 3M Ultra Fine Polish + LC Red with Rotary.

To me, jeweling should only be performed after the paint is completely finished down. The liquid should have little to no abrasives and the pad be the finest finishing. You shouldn’t be removing marring or haze. Just building gloss.
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Always wanted to get a bottle of Ultrafina SE, the downside of Ultrafina is that it is designed to be used with a rotary exclusively limiting it`s versatility.
 
Ultrafina was big here for a while...but I thought some were all, uhm...opinionated...about undesired filling that often reappeared quite a ways down the road.
 
Accumulator said:
Right. I`m no Rotary Meister by any means, but I`ve *NEVER* damaged paint with one. Not starting out as an ignorant kid, not hammering plastic panels decades later, and if *I* can avoid an "oops" I`d expect anybody could. I never even did the "deliberately burn a panel just to see what it`s like"!


I commend you for posting that! Heh heh, let alone here at Autopia :D Same here, and if there are holograms on black then there are (much harder to see) holograms on other colors as well. My wife and I have spent countless hours inspecting for `em lest something be visible weeks later under some oddball conditions.

So how will you deal with those holograms if you *do* go all-rotary?
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First I`ll try doing those kind of edges with a PE-8, which I would have to buy...AGAIN lol. The smaller pad should be easier to keep flat on the surface. If that doesn`t do it hopefully I`ll at least be able to use my Flex mini to clean them up. I`ll just have to stay away from a lot of vibration. Hoping the whole thing is going to be a non issue anyway.

The way I see it if you never admit your inability to do something no one will ever help you learn.
 
DBAILEY said:
Scholl`s S40 is another one to consider.
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This one is tough to beat, and I`ve been lookin`.
I end up right back with S40 & Rupes white pads.

There is one out now a new formula Adam`s Finish polish, micro- abrasive infused with SiO2. A bit cheaper.

:hotrod:
 
DaveT435 said:
I`ll just have to stay away from a lot of vibration. Hoping the whole thing is going to be a non issue anyway.
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Hope that does work out OK. Vibration can be dead-serious!

The way I see it if you never admit your inability to do something no one will ever help you learn.
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LOVE seeing you post that! If only more people thought that way! Heh heh, there are still [crap]loads of things that I can`t do, but a lot fewer than if I`d never admitted it.
 
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