Hey guys Im pretty new to detailing, so I could use some advice. Im using meguiaras #105, 205, followed by #26, and Im wanting to buy a glaze to use before the wax. I was originally going to get M#7 but after reading how it can be difficult to use, Ive decided to go with something else. Ive read alot of good things here about DWG and Clearkote RMG. Im wanting something that isnt color specific, but There are just so many options. I appreciate any advice you can throw my way. Also how do you like the M26? I just got it and havnt had a chance to use it much. Thanks
which glaze before Meguiars #26?
- Thread starter brett3xx
- Start date
Dubbin1
I like Cheese
If you're correcting the paint then you will get nothing out of using a glaze.
Dubbin1 said:
Perhaps ... but there are others who swear they see a difference: see, e.g., SuperBee's article "Revisiting an old enemy."
Accumulator
Well-known member
IME:
- some paints really respond to those Meguiar's "Pure Polishes" (i.e., glazes), but others simply don't. Won't know until you try.
- #5 is easiest to use, #3 and #81 and Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish are all pretty similar (and easier), #7 is the trickiest.
- some paints really respond to those Meguiar's "Pure Polishes" (i.e., glazes), but others simply don't. Won't know until you try.
- #5 is easiest to use, #3 and #81 and Deep Crystal Step #2 Polish are all pretty similar (and easier), #7 is the trickiest.
Dubbin1
I like Cheese
akimel said:
If they see a difference then they are not properly finishing the polish job
akimel said:
Akimel, you're correct.
Megs 7 is actually easy to use if you apply it very thinly and buff off immediately.
I've using it since 2004 and I love it. After all the correction and finishing, and just before your LSP, Megs 7 is great especially for blacks, reds and dark colours. It's also effective on silver and light colours, but as usual, the effect is subtle.
Now, I'm also using 3M's Perfect It glaze, and i apply it via Makita+LC Blue Pad (speed1) to slowly jewel the surface.
Today, I was doin' a Merc SL350 in Cubinite Silver. This is a medium tone bronzish colour and very challenging to make it look good. Quite a boring colour actually.
After 105, 205 and menz finishing polishes, I had a bit of time, and used 3M.
Mmmm....the improvement was subtle but noticeable.
jfelbab
New member
I prefer #7 or RMG. Either is easy to use if you keep it thin. Also, if you find an area that is difficult to remove, simply reapply to the area and it will re-liquify.
#7 skins over as it sets and it is beneficial to cut through the skin with a cotton towel and then buff with your MF. I find #7 to be the best filler for light swirls. I also have been known to apply #7 over my sealant just prior to showing my red MR2. It leaves a wet paint look but, of course that won't last long unless you reseal after the show.
Glazes show their mettle more on dark colors so if you have silver or white paint you may not see all that much change with the glaze.
#7 skins over as it sets and it is beneficial to cut through the skin with a cotton towel and then buff with your MF. I find #7 to be the best filler for light swirls. I also have been known to apply #7 over my sealant just prior to showing my red MR2. It leaves a wet paint look but, of course that won't last long unless you reseal after the show.
Glazes show their mettle more on dark colors so if you have silver or white paint you may not see all that much change with the glaze.
On certain big budget jobs where the paintwork has been buffed to a swirl-free stage, I like to stay behind in my shop after my guys have left for the day, and start jewelling the paintwork with Megs 7 or 3M Perfect It glaze.
It's a very therapeutic (!!!!) experience which is calming and rewarding. No rush, no stress, just enjoyment and happiness in seeing a marvellous red paintwork "glowing with life" as my LC Blue rotates slowly at Speed 1 and slowly jewelling the surface.
Really makes my day!!!
I do one panel at a time, and buff off immediately.
I like to leave it (without LSP) overnite, and then LSP tommorow.
It's a very therapeutic (!!!!) experience which is calming and rewarding. No rush, no stress, just enjoyment and happiness in seeing a marvellous red paintwork "glowing with life" as my LC Blue rotates slowly at Speed 1 and slowly jewelling the surface.
Really makes my day!!!
I do one panel at a time, and buff off immediately.
I like to leave it (without LSP) overnite, and then LSP tommorow.
Accumulator
Well-known member
jfelbab- That use of M07 as a final topper must be popular given the way Meg's renamed M07 "showcar polish" or "showcar glaze" or whatever they're calling it these days 
I still think of it as "Sealer and Reseal Glaze" but I guess that's showing my age 
brett3xx- To be honest, I never get all that much concealing out of M05. Some, but not quite as much as from M03, which, in turn, doesn't conceal as much as M07. I figure it's a matter of each product's concentration of those Trade Secret Oils. Not like M05 is a complete waste of time or anything though...
3M's Imperial Hand Glaze ("IHG") works OK for this can conceals in-between M03 and M07 as best I can remember. Some people think it's hard to work with, but I never thought so. Easier than M07 by a long shot IMO, but that's just me and it seems that experiences really differ with these products.
Two perhaps seemingly contradictory responses from a guy who's used M07 (on and off) since the mid '70s:
Asolutely not the case with certain single stage paints. Even when they're 100% perfect the Trade Secret Oils make a big diff. M07 on old-school ss black lacquer is simply amazing.
On certain paints, the old "Feeding the paint" thing is *NOT* BS the way it is with more modern paints. OK, OK, yeah...those paints are rare as hen's teeth these days, but some of us older guys still think about such stuff
But anyhow, that "properly finishing the polishing job" makes it sound as if you expect every vehicle to be correctable, and that's not the case. I work on a few vehicles where any new marring can only be fixed with a paintgun, and on a few of those any repainting would ruin the collector value. Even on my modern drivers with b/c, once I get well under 85-90 microns I don't want to take off any more clear.
Sorry, I'm not expressing myself well and the above sounds a lot more :argue than I mean it to
Now I'll climb over onto the other side of the fence
On some paints, yeah, absolutely. But...
On perfectly prepped Audi silver (brand new car), I got *nothing* out of Meg's Pure Polishes. Complete waste of time and they didn't even appear to bond to the paint, just wiped back off leaving zero diff. I figured it was a lack of micro-fissures/etc., that there wasn't any way for the stuff to "get into" the texture/etc. of the paint. :nixweiss
I still think of it as "Sealer and Reseal Glaze" but I guess that's showing my age brett3xx- To be honest, I never get all that much concealing out of M05. Some, but not quite as much as from M03, which, in turn, doesn't conceal as much as M07. I figure it's a matter of each product's concentration of those Trade Secret Oils. Not like M05 is a complete waste of time or anything though...
3M's Imperial Hand Glaze ("IHG") works OK for this can conceals in-between M03 and M07 as best I can remember. Some people think it's hard to work with, but I never thought so. Easier than M07 by a long shot IMO, but that's just me and it seems that experiences really differ with these products.
Two perhaps seemingly contradictory responses from a guy who's used M07 (on and off) since the mid '70s:
Dubbin1 said:If they see a difference then they are not properly finishing the polish job
Asolutely not the case with certain single stage paints. Even when they're 100% perfect the Trade Secret Oils make a big diff. M07 on old-school ss black lacquer is simply amazing.
On certain paints, the old "Feeding the paint" thing is *NOT* BS the way it is with more modern paints. OK, OK, yeah...those paints are rare as hen's teeth these days, but some of us older guys still think about such stuff
But anyhow, that "properly finishing the polishing job" makes it sound as if you expect every vehicle to be correctable, and that's not the case. I work on a few vehicles where any new marring can only be fixed with a paintgun, and on a few of those any repainting would ruin the collector value. Even on my modern drivers with b/c, once I get well under 85-90 microns I don't want to take off any more clear.
Sorry, I'm not expressing myself well and the above sounds a lot more :argue than I mean it to
gigondaz said:
Now I'll climb over onto the other side of the fence
On some paints, yeah, absolutely. But...
On perfectly prepped Audi silver (brand new car), I got *nothing* out of Meg's Pure Polishes. Complete waste of time and they didn't even appear to bond to the paint, just wiped back off leaving zero diff. I figured it was a lack of micro-fissures/etc., that there wasn't any way for the stuff to "get into" the texture/etc. of the paint. :nixweiss
dschribs
Active member
I've used both. After Clearkote RMG, I'll never go back to Meg's #7 (which I really did like and used for years).