Which chemical decontaminations should I use?

[bennylava]

I can see where dirt, exhaust, industrial fallout, bird crap, sap and tar come from. But everyone keeps mentioning iron. Where is iron coming from? In my mind, I`m imagining the worst thing (and most common thing) happening to a clear coat, is the car going down the highway at 70mph. Its getting blasted with all manner of dirt particles from the other cars, and just whatever is in the air at the time. I can`t really see where iron is coming from.

As for Brown Royal, I love the stuff. Just eats brake dust. The work that you have to do with it, thus far seems quite minimal. Generally it will eat most of it, and a light agitation with a brush may be necessary on wheels that has caked on brake dust. After that light agitation, that`s it. They`re clean. I don`t know if they`re autopian clean, but you certainly can`t see anything still on them when you`re just standing back and looking at them.

Lastly, what do you guys put on wheels that delays the brake dust from sticking? I find that possibility very intriguing. I`m imagining a spray that you just spray on there, and let it dry and don`t have to do anything else.

 

[Mike lambert]

I will no longer use any acid based or highly alkaline products on wheels. Too much risk of damage to brake parts. And don’t even think of it around the carbon ceramic ones! And yes they do get dusty.

 

[jrock645]

I’ve used the finish kare decon kit a couple of times. Not sure if they still make it or not.

 

[SWETM]

Most imbedded iron particals comes from brake pads and the brake rotors. They have such of a high temperature so it melts a very little in the clearcoat. Or since the iron particals is such a jagged edges it`s clinging on easier. Them what makes them almost impossible to remove with ordinary washing. Is that they oxidized very fast and this makes them bigger and hang on to the paint harder. That`s why a iron remover is necessary to desolve oxidized iron to iron only. And since IMO I think that those jagged edges is the first that oxidized on a iron partical and those gets desolved by a iron remover. It`s gets easier to rinse them of. If you get overspray from a metallgrinder and try to remove them right away you have problem to do that and need to clay it away instead. Those jagged edges of the iron overspray has not been able to oxidized and wont desolve with a iron remover. Iron remover either them are ph neutral or acid they have a acidic chemical that desolves oxidized iron aka rust corrosion. Ph neutral iron remover is a carrier for the reactive acid chemical that does the work to desolve oxidized iron.

I would look up if the wheel cleaner you like is ph neutral or acid or alkaline based. And if it can be used on glass and other material you have on your car. Overspray is easy to get and if it would etch glass or bare aluminum and it does. Then it`s not fun to repair that damage and it might not be possible to do it either. So a new part is necessary to replace the etched part. If you are certain of it not to etch parts on your car go ahead and use it. If not it`s a cheap insurance to use a dedicated iron remover that is made to get used on the car and read the manufactures recommendation how to use it. Work in smaller sections if it can dry before you are able to rinse it of. That`s a safer way to use chemicals of and kind as they are sensitive to drying. Other from that if not any restrictions to certain materials they are safe to use.

 

[IXLRS]

Most imbedded iron particals comes from brake pads and the brake rotors. They have such of a high temperature so it melts a very little in the clearcoat. Or since the iron particals is such a jagged edges it`s clinging on easier. Them what makes them almost impossible to remove with ordinary washing. Is that they oxidized very fast and this makes them bigger and hang on to the paint harder. That`s why a iron remover is necessary to desolve oxidized iron to iron only. And since IMO I think that those jagged edges is the first that oxidized on a iron partical and those gets desolved by a iron remover. It`s gets easier to rinse them of. If you get overspray from a metallgrinder and try to remove them right away you have problem to do that and need to clay it away instead. Those jagged edges of the iron overspray has not been able to oxidized and wont desolve with a iron remover. Iron remover either them are ph neutral or acid they have a acidic chemical that desolves oxidized iron aka rust corrosion. Ph neutral iron remover is a carrier for the reactive acid chemical that does the work to desolve oxidized iron.

I would look up if the wheel cleaner you like is ph neutral or acid or alkaline based. And if it can be used on glass and other material you have on your car. Overspray is easy to get and if it would etch glass or bare aluminum and it does. Then it`s not fun to repair that damage and it might not be possible to do it either. So a new part is necessary to replace the etched part. If you are certain of it not to etch parts on your car go ahead and use it. If not it`s a cheap insurance to use a dedicated iron remover that is made to get used on the car and read the manufactures recommendation how to use it. Work in smaller sections if it can dry before you are able to rinse it of. That`s a safer way to use chemicals of and kind as they are sensitive to drying. Other from that if not any restrictions to certain materials they are safe to use.

Is it safe to spray your favorite iron remover on PPF?

Do iron deposits even cling to PPF?

thxs!

 

[SWETM]

Is it safe to spray your favorite iron remover on PPF?

Do iron deposits even cling to PPF?

thxs!

I think that it`s clings to ppf as well. Have not real world experience with thou. One iron remover that claims to be 100% acid free and works on all materials is McKees 37 extreme iron remover. I would send a question to Nick at McKees to be on the safe side that it works on ppf and clearbras too. Or send to the company that has distribution of your favorite iron remover.

Ooh and if you live and drive by a railroad track you get alot of iron particals from trains brakes as it`s most metall to metall. That`s why if a brand new car gets transport by train you have alot of iron particals on them even if it`s a new car.

Skickat från min SM-T585 via Tapatalk

 

[SWETM]

Carpro claims it`s save to use ironx on ppf and clearbras. On carpro uk site they have much q/a on their products and maybe on the us site also. I like ironx and Bilt Hamber Korrosol as they are very fast to desolve oxidized iron and other contaminants. Korrosol I`m not certain if it`s save to use on ppf but can look into it.

For maintance say every 2 months or so depending on the environment you live in as how much iron particals and other fallout you have. I would look into carpro ironx foam or tac system iron foam. Use as a prewash foam with the foamcannon or and as a car soap. It`s a little more diluted and would be used straight if you want to get the strength as ironx has.

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[Accumulator]

...what do you guys put on wheels that delays the brake dust from sticking? I find that possibility very intriguing. I`m imagining a spray that you just spray on there, and let it dry and don`t have to do anything else.

I use FK1000P and give them a wipe with ~QD-strength IUDJ at each wash (it leaves just enough behind to make it worth doing). This lasts as long as KSG x 4 used to, which is a lot longer than any number of Collinite layers. But IME most any LSP is a lot better than nothing; I used Souveran (of all things!) on the Jag`s wheels and the only downside was it needed redone frequently.

And no, the "wheels get hot! The wax will just melt off!" never happened as best I could tell.

With that kind of treatment, I wash the brake dust off easily with just a strong shampoo mix, even on "German cars with awful brake dust" (scare-quotes intentional as I`ve never found *any* of those to be as bad as people say). Absolutely easy as can be.

 

[Accumulator]

Most imbedded iron particals comes from brake pads and the brake rotors. They have such of a high temperature so it melts a very little in the clearcoat. Or since the iron particals is such a jagged edges it`s clinging on easier. Them what makes them almost impossible to remove with ordinary washing..

But, but...it just never happens with my cars and I`m a lot harder on the brakes than most people think they are. AutoX/track days...washes right off, easy-peasy. OK, I`ll shut up now before I sound too argumentative

Do iron deposits even cling to PPF?

IF you get them (and I wouldn`t go looking for problems you don`t know you have ) then yeah the deposits will get onto/into most any surface they contact.

I’ve used the finish kare decon kit a couple of times. Not sure if they still make it or not.

As best I can tell it`s no longer on the market. Which is probably just as well as that (really nasty) stuff can do damage under some conditions. No, FK1119 never caused any problems for me, perfectly Accumulator-proof on the applications where I used it. But it`s a long way from foolproof and somebody, somewhere, almost certainly caused permanent damage with it, or more likely with their acidic step (Ketch talked me out of even trying it and of all people he oughta know).

 

[SWETM]

Most cases with a well maintained car the bigger oxidized iron particals from brakes is few and if washed after a trackday loosens effective. Do you have a barrier with a good lsp even less. So as many of other things it`s many variables. But if not maintained that well and the iron particals the bigger ones gets time to oxidized they cling rather hard and if only claying is not getting them off but shaved off and parts still in the clearcoat. On lighter colored cars you see it faster. And even with alot of iron in the water you are washing with can get some pretty cool bleeding effects. In Sweden some private water wells is heavy with minerals so it`s not unusual to see.

 

[Accumulator]

... alot of iron in the water you are washing with can get some... effects...

Hey, that`s a good point! Got kinda transparent to me what with all my filters/treatments/etc. and/but without doing all that stuff I might be dealing with a whole different situation.