Where to go from PC/#83/Sonus Orange?

B

benpocock

New member
Was detailing my Mum's Freelander today that hadn't seen any proper care in the 4 years she's had it. It was swirled/scratched to buggery and I wasn't particularly looking forward to contenting with them as #83 and Sonus orange pads was the most aggressive option I had.



Needless to say after two passes there were still quite a few marks left on the paint (not hazing I hasten to add) that just weren't going to budge (couldn't feel them with my nail either).



So where do I go from here. Is there a more aggressive product/pad combination I can use with the PC or is it time to invest in a rotary? I'd always got on the basis that #83 was about as aggressive as you could go with the PC as using a really aggressive compound with it can cause more problems than it fixes.



I'm sure a few more passes would have helped but I'd rather have an option that can "get them in one" so to speak.



Opinions?!



Thanks,

Ben.
 
BenP,



I have used a wool pad with my PC and #83. Follow it up with the Orange Pad with PC and #83 and then a polishing pad with PC and a lighter polish, (#80 or VM would do)



This took out almost every single imperfection in my paint and it looked stunning.



Here is a pic of my former jet black 740i that I used this process on.



2805on_the_way_to_bimmerfest_for_web_4-12-03.jpg




I hope this helps.



Cheers,
 
Ben,



Just to rule a few things out, can you tell us what your process was like? What speed on the PC? How much pressure, if any at all? How big of an area did you polish at a time, and how long did you spend on each area? How much polish did you use? Basically, anything you can think of on the process level so we rule out and flaws in your method before moving to a more abrasive option.
 
AMP01 - was considering a wool pad. May have to invest in one and give it a go.



JDookie - the process I use involves working a 2'x2' section (sometimes I let slip and may go to 3'x2'). I put 4/5 pea sized "blobs" of product on the pad and work it at speed 4, then increase to 5 when it's broken down quite a bit (I've tried 6 in the past but find it breaks the product down too quickly). Initially I add a bit of pressure to the PC but I know how easy it is to bog them down (just need to watch the pad stop oscilating) so most of the time I let the weight of the machine do the work. I work the product until it's nearly dry, then buff off with a MF.



I'm sure there is a flaw in my technique somewhere, but I'm a fairly quick learner and have had decent results in the past with #83 - I just think my Mum's Freelander may have been a bit more trashed than I thought!



Any help/pointers appreciated.



Ben
 
Ben Ive got some yellow Lake County VC pads from Pakshak.

They are the next step on from Orange sonus ones.

You can buy one off me if that helps.



I use mine with ssr2.5 and its pretty effective.



Mark
 
Hi Ben,

I think I would have had to press down a little harder on the machine than you suggest you did to remove those swirls. I am not sure that 'the weight of the machine' in this case would be enough.

I guess if you had success in the past removing swirls and scratches this way, it could be that the different vehicles have different 'hardness' of paint? As I say I have only really had good results at removing swirls and scratches, by adding pressure to the PC.

I have DACP and IP, and I find IP to be more effective at removing swirls and scratches, but that could simply be that I do not use DACP correctly, as I believe there is something of a 'knack' to using DACP.
 
Axe, I do use some pressure but I find that that PC bogs down really easily and starts to "vibrate" more than continue in its random orbit action.



I was thinking last night that I need to get my hands on some IP, but I'm also considering a rotary anyway as even tough I've onoy had my PC a few months I'm already starting to see its "shortfalls".



Ben
 
Ben,



The Crossfire I posted pics of recently was swirled to death and I found that a Megs yellow pad and SSR2.5 worked superbly using the following method and working in approx 2x2 sections :-



1. 10p sized blob in centre of pad

2. Dot pad around panel, leaving residue over panel

3. Speed 3-4 on PC and work product in for no more than a minute

4. Speed up to 5.5-6 for 30 seconds max - product will dust when it's done

5. Wipe with MF



Second pass I use same method but slightly more product - no idea why this works but it gave me good (and quick) results on the Crossfire & X Type.



SSR2.5 works really nicely as both a swirl remover and cleaner too BTW - less hazing than DACP and faster results IMHO.



Hope this helps.
 
Cheers for your help guys - I'll take on board what you've said and will give it a go. Thanks for the offer of the pad Mark, but I need to order some more stuff soon so will add some more aggressive pads to the list.



Ben
 
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