Where do 1z polishes go on this chart?

First, let me state that I'm not a big fan of scales. Why? Because they can become somewhat subjective based on level of experience. Take salsa for example. They have these scales on the bottle that show the heat level. Well, I know someone who thinks that "mild" is blazing hot while some folks might think that the "very hot" is more like "medium" (Personally, I'm used to habanero sp? :) ).



Many of you have noticed that our products stay 'wet' longer. This allows for a more controlled type of cutting. We've had to show some shops that instead of running high rpms on their rotaries, which can cause the product to 'gum' up and not cut well, they need to run it slower (about 700-1000 rpms) than they are accustomed to. Without such knowledge someone who is not working the product for a sufficient amount of time or running their machine too high for the product to do its work properly might consider the polish to be a 6 cutting level instead of a 8/9.





Here's a general guideline:



D2 Special Cleaner* - ~11 - Not available in N.America

Extra, Intensiv Paste* - 8/9

Paint Polish, Hochglanz Polish* - 5/6

Metallic, Express, WaxFinish* - 2

WaxPolish Soft -1/2



*Glaze: silicone-free for professional environments



As a general guideline, I hope this helps. Level of cutting can be changed dramatically by the pad you use, the application method, the rpm used, etc. Something to keep in mind.



Regards,
 
Mike @Einszett said:


Level of cutting can be changed dramatically by the pad you use, the application method, the rpm used, etc. Something to keep in mind.



Regards,
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Something to keep in mind indeed. Well stated, Mike.



This is probably the most misunderstood and ignored concept regarding machine polishing by rookies and novices. Everyone seems to be looking for that simple formula (what polish with what pad at what speed for how long on what machine) that works perfectly every time. Problem is, the formula flat doesn't exist.



Ultimately users need to get off their computers and out to their work areas and get some hands-on experience. You will learn a lot more about a polish by using it than you ever will by reading some arbitrary chart that was developed with no known methodology.
 
Thanks for the update, Mike! It's true that scale is subjective, but I have a lot of faith in the person who compiled the scale who obvious had experience with the chemicals and could apply each correctly and consistently to get the best result. The list helps me (a newbie) discriminating what to buy, and not buying the simlar polish/compound if I am looking for something more aggressive.



Again thank you for your reply....This is why I love Autopia!
 
love2shine said:
It's true that scale is subjective, but I have a lot of faith in the person who compiled the scale who obvious had experience with the chemicals and could apply each correctly and consistently to get the best result. The list helps me (a newbie) discriminating what to buy, and not buying the simlar polish/compound if I am looking for something more aggressive.
Click to expand...



I agree! If you don't have a clue getting one helps!:)
 
Great. I'm glad to help :)



I definitely agree that the scale is a great way to start out. I just wanted to remind or point out to the folks just getting into detailing that it's not black and white. As we all know, nothing beats hands on experience. Use it as a guide and only a guide and it's a great way to get started.



And I've said it before but I'll say it again, do not hesitate to contact us here at Einszett via email or call (www.1z-usa.com). We don't care how trivial you think your question might seem or if you're using a competing product along with ours. Just want to make sure you're getting the most use out of what you buy!



Also, another reminder, if you tried one of our products and it didn't work out for you even after contacting us to determine why it did not meet your expectations, you can return the product for a refund of the product price. Your shelves do not have to become a collection point!



Regards,



Michael Mankarious

einszett North America

www.1z-usa.com
 
Thanks Mike. I actually just tried your product for the first time and was happy with the results. If you want to see the whole story Click Here . Don't let the title fool you, I was talking about my first attempt.
 
NICE!!! Thanks for sharing. Try following up with our more mild polish Paint Polish to get more depth and gloss. To get a better sense of what that does check out the section "Restoration" on our website www.1z-usa.com and check out the SCIROCCO . UPP does the majority of the work and PP will finish it off by removing more oxidation but by leaving a deeper finish.



As far as machine speed and gumming up... this ONLY applies to Rotaries, not Dual Action Orbitals. DAs don't create nearly enough friction to cause the polishes to gum up. With a DA I polish with a 4-5 speed. On a rotary, nothing over 1100-1200 rpm. Notice the use of "rpm". Rotaries spin in one direction whereas a Dual Action oscillates therefore it creates a lot less friction. Basically, you can put your hand against an operating DA but if you do the same thing with a rotary you will tear your skin off--please do not try and test this :D On a scale of 1-10 of pain, it's an 11! :p



Thanks again for sharing!



Regards,



Michael
 
Mike @Einszett said:
NICE!!! As far as machine speed and gumming up... this ONLY applies to Rotaries, not Dual Action Orbitals. DAs don't create nearly enough friction to cause the polishes to gum up. With a DA I polish with a 4-5 speed. On a rotary, nothing over 1100-1200 rpm. Notice the use of "rpm". Rotaries spin in one direction whereas a Dual Action oscillates therefore it creates a lot less friction. Basically, you can put your hand against an operating DA but if you do the same thing with a rotary you will tear your skin off--please do not try and test this :D On a scale of 1-10 of pain, it's an 11! :p
Click to expand...



Ohhhhh, so that is the difference. Thank you for clarifying that. I was going to ask you about that. So, I lucked into using the right speed...:)



I can definitely recommend the UPP, that is a nice product.



Edit, I just checked out the VW and I wish I had seen that before, that is impressive. It helps to have a clue. HMMMM
 
Hi Mike,



Thank you so much; I just received my sample of 1Z paint polish yesterday. People like you have restored my faith in customer service and trust in big companies. I can't wait to give it a try next time I wash the car.
 
Chao,



Thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts.



On the contrary, I was hoping to get it out sooner but we were out of plastic bottles and our distributor was on vacation for an extended period :(



I'm eager to hear the results. Please let me know how PP works out for you regardless of outcome.



Regards,



Michael Mankarious

einszett North America

www.1z-usa.com
 
I'm on the edge of my seat waiting for this winter to pass so I can order some 1z polishes and finally try them out!
 
Again thanks to Mike for providing the sample...



I have some stubborn scratches on the rear bumper lip (thanks to the dealership detailer). They are only visible under good sun light and from an angle, and can't be caught with fingernail. I've already tried Meguiar's Scratch X and Meg #9; #9 didn't do much, but Scratch X seemed to improve the appearance a bit. The bumper was relatively clean, so I cleaned the surface with some QD, and went ahead with 1Z PP and a terry cloth (for more 'bite'). With moderate pressure and going zig-zag-left-right-up-down-and circular motion, I'd say the scratches are reduced a bit, but it's hard to say how much. I'd say it's not because PP wasn't doing its thing, but the scratches are deep and the clearcoat hardness may be a factor. My 500 watt halogen light also didn't provide the best evaluation in the darkness of my garage.



I think Mike's assessment of the abrasiveness PP on the "scale" of 5/6 is fairly accurate. It felt to be just a tad stronger than Meg's Scratch X, but the thickness of the Scratch X seems to give it a psychological advantage. To anyone with a PC, I am willing to bet that the PP will do wonders as a true swirl mark remover.



I will attempt to try this by hand again. Thanks for Mike@Einzett for the support.
 
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