What to use on repainted areas

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imported_RedlineIRL

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From what I've heard freshly repainted areas cannot be waxed, sealed, or washed with any kind of wash that contains any kind of wax so it can gas out and harden. What should I use as far as washes and a possible glaze to keep bugs from sticking in the summer. I've been using Z7 in the past, but I will not be using it until the area is fully cured. I've also got some Meguairs deep crystal wash, is this ok to use? What can I use to keep the bugs from sticking and still allow the paint to gas out?
 
For protection on new paint I like to use Meg's #5 glaze. It's very easy to use but you'll want to reapply it pretty often, like after a wash or some heavy rain. The #5 will allow the new paint to cure while offering some protection.
 
There's mixed opinions about sealing in fresh paint. IMHO, there's no real documented answer. I've spoken to several painters along with paint manufacturing reps and they all say different things. If your that concerned (which I'm sure you are based on the several threads you've posted on painting your bumper), I'd stay clear of any wax. Buy yourself some Meg's 00 car wash soap and do it that way for 3 months. Then, after that, lightly polish any swirls out and seal it with your favorite flavor.



Did you have the bumper painted yet? If so, how did it come out?
 
Does the painter have any recommendations? One of the variables here is the curing time and method (i.e. temperature & humidity), right? The painter I use cures for 48 hours in a hot room and pronounces most everything ready for wax afterward. The exception is plastic pieces that receive adhesion promotor and/or flex primer.
 
I've heard many opinions on many sides of the fence. Some claim because they baked the paintwork @ 165 degrees, that means the paint is 100% cured immediately. Some claim that even if this baking occurs, it still takes 2 days to completely outgas. Some claim it takes 30 days, some say 60days, some say 90 days. Who's right??



When you get a painter's or shop's opinion, is that based on what they think (opinion?) or what the manufacturer thinks? The shop could be going off information fed to them 5 or more years ago and still think it's the same recomendation which may or may not have changed. Most shops unfortunately don't know the real answer or don't really care.



VroomVroom: What does adhesion promoter or flex additives have to do with paint curing, especially on plastic parts? I'm interested in hearing more...
 
What does adhesion promoter or flex additives have to do with paint curing, especially on plastic parts? I'm interested in hearing more...
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Adhesion Promoter doesn't have any from what I've heard from several professional painters... what I've always been told/read is that if it hasn't been baked, you need to wait at least a month before applying wax. The guy I use also said even if it has been baked, he still likes to wait for a month before applying any wax.
 
..[Accumulator just deleted his zillionth post about waxing/etc. repaints]..



As for the actual question that this thread is really all about: Off the top of my head, I've washed fresh repaints with Meg's #62, #00, Gold Class, Griot's Car Wash, Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo, AutoInt's "C" with no problems whatsoever. I'd be utterly astounded if Deep Crystal Wash caused any problems, but I don't believe I've ever washed a fresh repaint with it.
 
David Fermani said:
There's mixed opinions about sealing in fresh paint. IMHO, there's no real documented answer. I've spoken to several painters along with paint manufacturing reps and they all say different things. If your that concerned (which I'm sure you are based on the several threads you've posted on painting your bumper), I'd stay clear of any wax. Buy yourself some Meg's 00 car wash soap and do it that way for 3 months. Then, after that, lightly polish any swirls out and seal it with your favorite flavor.



Did you have the bumper painted yet? If so, how did it come out?
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It's getting done soon. I'm going to wait a full 3 months to make sure everything is cured properly.







Would ONR be safe to use during the curing process? This time of the year the bugs are really out and I have been using ONR daily between washes to get them off. This is why I'd like to use a glaze to keep the bug splatters from staining the paint. Is Meguiars #5 something that works well at keeping bugs from sticking?



How long should I wait before polishing, would it be best to wait the full 3 months on that also? Or should it be done before the paint fully hardens?
 
RedlineIRL said:
It's getting done soon. I'm going to wait a full 3 months to make sure everything is cured properly...
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Smart move IME :xyxthumbs



Would ONR be safe to use during the curing process?
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I would think so. The folks at Optimum even claim their OCW is safe for repaints; it's supposedly OKed by Ford for post-production paintwork.



..Is Meguiars #5 something that works well at keeping bugs from sticking?
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Eh...it's not all that great in this regard but it's a lot better than nothing.



How long should I wait before polishing, would it be best to wait the full 3 months on that also? Or should it be done before the paint fully hardens?
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Depends on the marring. Generally, I like to wait a while so the paint hardens up (I've had fresh repaints that were too soft for Meg's #80!) but sometimes the shop leaves such awful marring that I just can't stand it and have to do something right away.



If you have to do significant correction, there's a good argument for *not* waiting until the paint is as hard as it can get...it'll simply be more work at that point.



But OTOH, you'll probably end up doing a final polish after the curing period anyhow before you wax/seal, so just see if there's anything you can't live with that long.



Get it back and *then* make up your mind about polishing. And try to impress upon the shop that you *DO NOT* want it all marred up (heh heh, good luck with that :o ).
 
Incase anyone was wondering, I sent an email to Optimum to see if they reccomend using ONR on freshly painted surfaces. Here's what I got.



"Thank you for your email and using Optimum Car Care products. Optimum No Rinse does not contain waxes, silicones, or sealants. The soy-based polymers are safer on new paint than detergents and will not affect the fresh paint or the curing process."





Soy-based?:nixweiss
 
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