What Steps Do You Use For A Spotless Hologram Free Outcome Using M105???

Accumulator said:
Scottwax- Heh heh, you ougtha replace the Cyclo reference and pic with something rotary-centric, you might cut down on some confusion that way.



Who says that is a Cyclo reference?
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White lexus 23 said:
Whatever David. It has worked for me regardless of what you say



105 won't leave a perfect finish if you do an IPA wipedown. Always follow a compound with a less aggressive polish.
 
White lexus 23 said:
i can usually knock out some paints swril free with 105 or 205 and lake country pfw.



David Fermani said:
Sorry, but I don't think so.



White lexus 23 said:
Whatever David. It has worked for me regardless of what you say



White lexus 23 said:
I understand. And all I am saying is that it has worked for me. And just because one thing works for sombody does not mean it will work for others, or will work on any kind of paint. Also I am kind of new to this polish(105and205) because I used to use. Menzerna and 3M

Process for those were

Sip on lake country yellow for bad swriling rids or other bad defects

Sip on orange lake country

3M extra cut on white Ccs or orange lake country also for other hard clears

3m swril remover on yellow meguiars polishing pad

Sip on white pad or menzerna finishing polish

And in some cases reds and some black cars 3M ultrafina s.e. With the 3M perfect it 3000 blue pad

For final polishing black lake country pads or meguiars solo black pad. Those are just some combos. I know you said pad combos for 105 but that's just what works for me. Everyone does things a bit different and that is fine just find what works for you and if your unsure start with least agressive combos and work your way up.

Have a good one



Sorry for resurrecting a dead thread, but I gotta throw my two cents in on this one.



White Lexus, I agree. There have been *many* cars I've done with moderately hard and hard paint where 105 or SIP with PFW have finished out compound mark and hologram free. Some might call that "LSP ready", but even though the finish was flawless, the gloss still needed to be brought up with a finishing polish. But the point is, that yeah, it *is* possible to get some pretty gnarly polish/pad combinations to finish down perfectly, especially on harder paints.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Sorry for resurrecting a dead thread, but I gotta throw my two cents in on this one.



White Lexus, I agree. There have been *many* cars I've done with moderately hard and hard paint where 105 or SIP with PFW have finished out compound mark and hologram free. Some might call that "LSP ready", but even though the finish was flawless, the gloss still needed to be brought up with a finishing polish. But the point is, that yeah, it *is* possible to get some pretty gnarly polish/pad combinations to finish down perfectly, especially on harder paints.



I can get hologram free on hard paint with #105 and a polishing pad but I always bump up the gloss with #205 or Ultrafina.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Sorry for resurrecting a dead thread, but I gotta throw my two cents in on this one.



White Lexus, I agree. There have been *many* cars I've done with moderately hard and hard paint where 105 or SIP with PFW have finished out compound mark and hologram free. Some might call that "LSP ready", but even though the finish was flawless, the gloss still needed to be brought up with a finishing polish. But the point is, that yeah, it *is* possible to get some pretty gnarly polish/pad combinations to finish down perfectly, especially on harder paints.



Scottwax said:
I can get hologram free on hard paint with #105 and a polishing pad but I always bump up the gloss with #205 or Ultrafina.



...........and I agree with both of you as well, at least in terms of SIP and a polishing pad (I have never used M105 on anything other than a cutting pad).



The important point, though, is that you can still bring up the gloss another notch by going with one of the final finishing polishes and pads, and this is particularly true with darker colors.



As an aside, I used M205 for the first time last night, following M105. To me, it seemed like it was a pretty fine finishing polish, and probably needed *slightly* more cut to properly follow M105 with a cutting pad in order to completely remove all marring/hazing.
 
When M105 appears to be finishing out really well, try inspecting the work with a SunGun in an otherwise dark room ;) Pretty eye-opening IMO/IME, even on very hard clear.



Rob Tomlin said:
.. I used M205 for the first time last night, following M105. To me, it seemed like it was a pretty fine finishing polish, and probably needed *slightly* more cut to properly follow M105 with a cutting pad in order to completely remove all marring/hazing.



On harder paints, I like following M105 with M205 on a somewhat aggressive pad. I really like the Griot's orange foam for this, as it lets the M205 cut enough to properly follow M105 while still finishing out nicely.
 
EMIN007 said:
how does the ultrafina compare to FP or FPII?



UF works quicker, FPII is a true polish with no abrasives. If you don't use UF correctly it will false correct due to durable fillers.



Cheers,

GREG
 
Accumulator said:
When M105 appears to be finishing out really well, try inspecting the work with a SunGun in an otherwise dark room ;) Pretty eye-opening IMO/IME, even on very hard clear.



What brand of Sun Gun do you like?
 
bert31 said:
What brand of Sun Gun do you like?



When I say "SunGun", I mean the 3M Sun Gun, which, AFAIK, is the only one that's really called that. It's the only artificial light I've found that can display certain flaws, and I sometimes think it shows flaws that aren't visible under *any* other conditions. So it sets a mighty high bar, perhaps unrealistically so in many (most?) cases, but it sure made an impression on me regarding micromarring from M105 (and also the oils from M205).



I also have the Brinkman Dual-Xenon, but it doesn't work out nearly as well for me as it does for others. Handy and useful, and great for the cost, but not *my* choice for meticulous inspection.
 
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