What Steps Do You Use For A Spotless Hologram Free Outcome Using M105???

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EMIN007

New member
Hello everyone, I decided to see what people are using with excellent success when it comes to M105. Please list what other products you use after the M105-the pads you use before and after- and what kind of machines you use with the M105 and after. I've had great success but since using the M105 I have just done 1 black escape and a few dozen light color and white cars, so I don't know if I'll run into problems doing more black cars with softer and more sensitive paints. If you might have any suggestions on improving my process and or products used please comment.





My process is as follows:





M105 used with rotary with a Meguiars W4000 buff n cut wool pad followed by

FP used with rotary with a CCS white pad followed by

Wolf Gang or RMG glaze on a black pad using a PC

Thanks!!!
 
I would have to think you must be one hell of a rotary polisher to go from a heavy compound like wool and 105 to a final polish and a polishing pad...most people are using 2 or 3 steps after wool and 105 to finish down...



I would think it would have to be something like this, as its what I do:

wool and 105

light cutting pad and 105 (sometimes taking this step out)

polishing pad and 205/SIP/OC

finishing pad and FPII/m80



its all in your technique though, mine isnt perfect by any means, that is just what works for me...
 
as previously stated after you use M105 you will def. need to take it down a notch and go through with a medium polish to smooth the paint out.



Tr going something like:



M105 megs Wool pad

Menz SIP or Menz 106F - Orange Pad

Lastly . . . . .



You can use Menz 106F on White Pad/Black Pad

or Jewel it up with some Menz P085rd (Black pad)



It all depends on the car and paint. Some paints need to be finished with something real fine and a super soft pad and some paints you can stop at a white pad.



Every case is different.
 
David Fermani said:
Sorry, but I don't think so.
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:werd:



PFW will almost always create some sort of either hazing or bits of holograms, which is why it almost always needs to be finished/cleaned up with a less abrasive polish.
 
vtec92civic said:
:werd:



PFW will almost always create some sort of either hazing or bits of holograms, which is why it almost always needs to be finished/cleaned up with a less abrasive polish.
Click to expand...



........and pad. :heelclick
 
they make 205 especially FOR following 105......i loved using 205 after it. i prefer using 205 with a finsihing pad....and if you see any holograms....try 205 with a light polishing pad and then follow it back up with the finishing pad
 
#105. #205 and 3M Ultrafina are what I typically use. #205 actually finishes out hologram free on all but soft paints but UF is extra insurance plus it adds noticeable depth to the finish.
 
They are all kind of similar, with FP being the more different, ime. FPII and UF are both rather oily (like 106ff), they have almost no cut but finish down very well if worked properly. They can both fill, so keep an eye on that. FP is a little less oily, has less working time, almost no cut, finishes well just like the other too, but does less filling ime. I personally prefer FP but still use FPII and UF on occasion.
 
Hey Scott, when you say it finishes hologram free are you referring to a finish using a rotary, cyclo, or pc? Have you ever used the FP in particular instead of the 3m ultrafina for the final step. And lastly what pad combo do you use with the last step 3m? thanks
 
Even thought the "official" progression is supposed to be something along the lines of M105/cutting then M205/finishing, I find that to be a bit of a big jump. My current regimen (hard clear) has been to use an orange pad for the initial passes with M205 and *then* go to a finishing pad.



M105 can leave some fairly significant hazing that's usually only visible under my SunGun. A too-mild follow up with M205 does not competely eliminate this hazing.
 
105 PFW or yellow sonus pad. Usually KB method.



Sip white LC or Sonus pads



UF with finishing pad of your choice.



I use this almost everytime. Sometimes I use 3M extra cut (but not often)



I am going to have to agree with the fact you need a middle polish. I have seen great results with 105 followed with 205 so I can't really argue with that. But with a dark car especially black, I can't really see finishing 105 with a finishing polish using only wool. But white lexus without seeing your work I can't really argue with you.
 
I understand. And all I am saying is that it has worked for me. And just because one thing works for sombody does not mean it will work for others, or will work on any kind of paint. Also I am kind of new to this polish(105and205) because I used to use. Menzerna and 3M

Process for those were

Sip on lake country yellow for bad swriling rids or other bad defects

Sip on orange lake country

3M extra cut on white Ccs or orange lake country also for other hard clears

3m swril remover on yellow meguiars polishing pad

Sip on white pad or menzerna finishing polish

And in some cases reds and some black cars 3M ultrafina s.e. With the 3M perfect it 3000 blue pad

For final polishing black lake country pads or meguiars solo black pad. Those are just some combos. I know you said pad combos for 105 but that's just what works for me. Everyone does things a bit different and that is fine just find what works for you and if your unsure start with least agressive combos and work your way up.

Have a good one
 
EMIN007 said:
Hey Scott, when you say it finishes hologram free are you referring to a finish using a rotary, cyclo, or pc? Have you ever used the FP in particular instead of the 3m ultrafina for the final step. And lastly what pad combo do you use with the last step 3m? thanks
Click to expand...



Rotary. Never used FP and I use the blue Ultrafina pad with UF.
 
Scottwax- Heh heh, you ougtha replace the Cyclo reference and pic with something rotary-centric, you might cut down on some confusion that way.
 
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