What should I polish with b4 1000P

F

Fallz

New member
This will be my winter choice this year .



What should I polish with (preferably an AIO) and then I will start with the layering of 1000p .



I want to make sure bonding will be good.



(oh it will be on my personal vehicle which is GM black)
 
I'd go with a light polish just to clean it up a bit before applying 1000P. Since Winter bombards the finish, I'd wait until after winter to do a complete correction. At this point I'd just go with a light cleaning and slap some protection on for the upcoming winter months.
 
I've always used KAIO or ZAIO, but if I ever use it after finish-polishing with something really good (e.g., PO85rd) I'll just PrepWash/etc. and then apply the FK1000P over the bare paint.



I've done OK with Autoglym SRP, but so far I've only tried that on wheels; it'd be great if it worked OK all the time, what with the SRP's filling/etc., but I can't say for sure.
 
Fallguy said:
What should I polish with (preferably an AIO) and then I will start with the layering of 1000p .
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A few of us are using KAIO and have had 110% satisfaction with that. This is what I'll be doing over T'giving weekend.



A few of us have noted hologramming when "layering" FK 1000p. Be prepared for that.
 
tom p. said:
A few of us have noted hologramming when "layering" FK 1000p. Be prepared for that.
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Yeah, I'd sure wait and do the subsequent layers after each of the next regularly-scheduled washes.
 
I have used KAIO underneath FK1000P without a problem. I tried EZ-Creme because it leaves a shiny finish and fills in some minor scratches. I guess I will see if it affects durability. BTW I am not sure why people say that FK1000P is so hard to apply - just applying it thin made it very easy.
 
tom p. said:
A few of us are using KAIO and have had 110% satisfaction with that. This is what I'll be doing over T'giving weekend.



A few of us have noted hologramming when "layering" FK 1000p. Be prepared for that.
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Does the hologramming and hazing left behind wipe off fairly easily or usually dissapear ater the next wash? I have had this occur with 845, but it was due to me using a little too much product and leaving it on too long of time
 
RedlineIRL said:
Does the hologramming and hazing left behind wipe off fairly easily or usually dissapear ater the next wash? I have had this occur with 845, but it was due to me using a little too much product and leaving it on too long of time
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No, unfortunately it does not wipe off at all, let alone easily. :(



I've had the best results with layering 1000p after allowing the first layer to cure for a minimum of 24 hours. The second coat needs to be applied *extremely* gently. Remember that the solvents in fresh 1000p will immediately start to work on the already applied (and hopefully well cured) layer. The fresh solvents from the coat you're applying distort the first layer, causing the pseudo hologram effect.



When applying subsequent coats, do not rub! Just lightly (LIGHTLY!) apply in one direction. No back and forth, no circles. Just wipe it on in one direction, one pass. If your tin of 1000p is hard as a rock, warm it up first in some hot water. This will make applying additional layers easier.
 
SuperBee364 said:
No, unfortunately [FK1000P pseudo-hologramming] does not wipe off at all, let alone easily..
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I was fortunate in that I *was* able to buff away the ones I got using FL425 and lots of very soft/plush MFs. Sure was a huge job though, and I was glad to be working on hard clear.



But the ones I got with 476S did *not* buff away. Oddly enough I was able to fix them with a somewhat aggressive application of 845 and no, they didn't come back and I had no evidence that the 845 merely removed/replaced/compromised the 476S ( I know, surprised me too :nixweiss). I forget who it was, but I got the "try 845 on 'em" idea from somebody here (so no, it wasn't some original idea that I can take credit for :grinno: ).
 
I haven't had issues in 10 years, maybe an isolated low light situation but 1KP is always easy to apply and remove.



I always do 2 coats back to back, then wait a week and apply another if needed or whatever the case may be.



I don't get smearograms or anything like that either. Very strange, I wish I could pass on my experiences to everyone.



I use anything under it really, 215,2180,218, PB PP, medallion, KAIO, 1z MP, a milllllion other things, bare paint. No issues ever. I am sorry you guys get such headaches from it.
 
I don't think its hard to apply , it just takes a while. Especially on a black crew cab pick up....lol.



The 845 does not seem to play well with black otherwise I would rather choose that as winter protection. I get like a film on it and it shows up as a bronze/brownish slight tint . ANYONE know why this happens or have a solution ? 476 does not seem to do that and I don't know about 915 . When I apply 845 on my wifes silver Rav4 it looks stunning and the shine and excessive beading last a long time. Im getting a little frustrated with the hit or miss of the 845 , but no doubts about it protection.



I have added a second layer of 1000p and yes it looks good but during the winter month I will have to use touch less washes to get most of the crap off and then come home and pull in the heated garage , then use ONR , then wax or ....??? I DO NOT feel 1000p holds up well to detergents like 845 or 476 does . DG stuff seems to hold up well with detergent washing fairly well too.



I have 2 cans of M16 here and I might try topping the 1000P with that . I have never used M16 but maybe it will hold it beading for a while since the 1000P does not seem to be doing that for some reason.



As far as looks go there is nothing like a few coats of 1000P .



Suggestions welcome.......
 
Fallguy said:
..I have added a second layer of 1000p and yes it looks good but during the winter month I will have to use touch less washes to get most of the crap off and then come home and pull in the heated garage , then use ONR , then wax or ....??? I DO NOT feel 1000p holds up well to detergents like 845 or 476 does ..
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Huh, FK1000P is better in that regard than either 845 or 476S IME, but I suppose there are all sorts of reasons why somebody else could have a different experience.



I have 2 cans of M16 here and I might try topping the 1000P with that . I have never used M16 but maybe it will hold it beading for a while since the 1000P does not seem to be doing that for some reason. ..
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Noting again that we might have some different experiences, the M16 I use on my wife's A8 doesn't hold up *NEARLY* as well as the FK1000P on my dog-haulers, which aren't nearly as pampered.
 
Fallguy said:
What should I polish with (preferably an AIO) and then I will start with the layering of 1000p .



I want to make sure bonding will be good.
Click to expand...



Fallguy said:
I DO NOT feel 1000p holds up well to detergents like 845 or 476 does .
Click to expand...



The only times I've had problems with 1000p not having anything other than stellar durability, was when using something underneath it, like an AIO, glaze, etc. Pretty much anything that leaves a layer of stuff behind. My results have echoed Accumulator's; 1000p has given me much better durability than the collinites. I strip the paint completely bare of all polish/LSP residues (IPA or PrepWash wipedown) before applying 1000p.



Also, 1000p isn't done when it stops having an effect on how water appears on the surface of it. Personally, I go by when dirt fails to jump off the vehicle during the wash to tell when 1000p is done (which is usually quite a long time after it stops effecting the way water looks on it).
 
SuperBee364 said:
The only times I've had problems with 1000p not having anything other than stellar durability, was when using something underneath it, like an AIO, glaze, etc..
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And I even get the great durability when using it over top of AIOs.



But then I don't find that underlying products mess with my LSPs in general. E.g., I've had filling products "go away" under Collinite, making the marring "come back", and the Collinite was still 100%. No, I don't have a good explanation.... :nixweiss
 
I have only used KAIO under FK1000P and found it to have great durability during the DC summer heat. I guess we will see how FK1000P is going to hold up this winter with EZ Creme Glaze underneath.
 
I like to put it on wowo seems to work best for me.



I do get better beading with the 845/476 but not the look . I know the durability is there with 1000P because it still shines like hell after the wash. I like to use it on my chrome bumpers and rims too.



I need to order more FK stuff , whats up with the website ?
 
Fallguy said:
I like to put it on wowo seems to work best for me.



I do get better beading with the 845/476 but not the look . I know the durability is there with 1000P because it still shines like hell after the wash. I like to use it on my chrome bumpers and rims too.



I need to order more FK stuff , whats up with the website ?
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Not sure - but I just call in/e-mail Finish Kare. Shipping is not that chaep but ordering from them directly the prices are reasonable. I think I paid less thatn
 
I've only used FK 1000p with some sort of "base". Be it either KAIO or the Werkstatt Prime.



My process is typically very brief: base (cleaning/polishing) followed by the 1000p, typically two applications separated by 24hrs. or so. I've had excellent durability thru the winter months. Easily that 6 month objective and beyond. I end up cleaning in the spring time cuz stuff starts bonding to the sides of the car, behind the wheel openings. If it wasn't for that, I could go beyond 6 months as the surface remains glossy and smooth (but not slick).
 
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