what pads would you recommend?

autumn_again

New member
i'm fairly new to the detailing game. i recently have purchased a bmw thats been fully repainted as far as i'm aware. in certain lights on the hood you see pigtail swirl marks from a D/A sander when it was refinished in certain areas.



from hand polishing certain spots on the car, i've gathered that the whole finish is single stage on the exterior



the paint is not in the best condition, and for my 200$ beater, i'd like to use this to practice my skills with my porter cable 7424. i have yet to purchase any pads for this buffer though.



what pads and product would you recommend for single stage paint to get the best finish? am i correct in thinking that the single stage is pretty much going to mutilate the pads?



i'm not looking for anywhere near 100% correction. just basically as a practice.



thanks for reading.



edit, forgot to note, that i understand without actually taking a pad and polish combo to the paint, its hard to say what will and wont work, i'm a long time lurker, just i haven't seen too much single stage coverage, so i'm still pretty lost with that. i have dealt with polishing two stage at my work with a rotary and i'm pretty confident with that.
 
pigtails = rotary needed, or at the minimum M105 and yellow pads

follow up with 105 on orange

white with 205 or menzerna SIP/203

black with Menzerna 106/85rd/megs 205



SS is actually softer and should clean up more easily
 
alright cool i was wanting to pick up 105/205 combo for when i start detailing part time.



grabbed this picture from another site, i hope its alright, the detailer might post here i am not sure. just don't want him to think i'm trying to claim it as my own. hah.



DSC_0025.jpg




thats what i mean by the d/a scratches, like underneath the paint, from how they were prepped when repainted. i'm painter prep in an auto collision repair facility [i know my professions probably not liked here] hah. its marks from using too rough of a grit and painting over it. basically bad body work underneath the paint.



something like that i am able to take care of? i was always under the impression if i got that completely flat i would of burnt thru the paint, unless there was a nice build.
 
youre screwed if you want to do that with a PC. You are going to need to resand that area with something like 2000/3000 then hit it with wool and a compound. Or, You can try 2500/4000 and try to get it with the PC at that point.



There is a general rule, dont sand without being able to get a rotary on the area



oh, and if its in the paint, below the clear, you cant remove it without sanding through the clear and getting to the paint. Glazes wont help in this situation either
 
Sandford said:
With the greatest respect, why if you work in a body shop are you asking people on here??????



because as most people know body shops aren't the best with "detailing". we do collision repair, and the people i know, have methods that "work for them" but doesn't neccesarily mean its the easiest or the right way to do something.



i actually work in the painter prep area, and clean the cars before delivery. we do some paint correction, but single stage is something i've never dealt with.
 
toyotaguy said:
youre screwed if you want to do that with a PC. You are going to need to resand that area with something like 2000/3000 then hit it with wool and a compound. Or, You can try 2500/4000 and try to get it with the PC at that point.



There is a general rule, dont sand without being able to get a rotary on the area



oh, and if its in the paint, below the clear, you cant remove it without sanding through the clear and getting to the paint. Glazes wont help in this situation either



yeah i knew that i wouldnt be able to fix them without the risk of burning thru. but i didnt want to say that the bmw was single stage and have someone call me out on it saying they came basecoat/clearcoat. just pointing out that i know its been repainted several times.



i am not too worried about getting the pigtails out, because they are deep. and + its single stage, so no clear, so if i burn thru. its gunna stand out horribly.



like i said, its a 200$ beater, just want to give it a nice gloss, and i've been waiting to use my portercable since i don't want to practice on my 07 mustang gt. practice on a cheap car + then i can have the satisfaction of returning a car from junkyard appearance to real nice sheen.
 
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