What pad for Megs 105?
- Thread starter jw
- Start date
imported_Chris223
New member
In the other M105 thread that's about 6 pages long, I was told with a PC, a white polishing pad was the best choice, it wont take away really any of it's cutting ability but will let it finish a lot nicer. Plus like they say, least aggressive method first. I plan to start with a white on my Pontiac, and be very careful, doing a test pannel first.
SuperBee364
New member
Chris223 said:
Yeah, that was me, Scottwax, and NSXTASY that recommended that pad. Specifically, the 4" white LC pad. Everyone that uses a PC should be singing the mantra of the 4" pad. It is by far more effective than any other pad size for the PC. You are able to put more pressure on a smaller area before the PC bogs with four inch pads.
As for using the white pad...M105 has a *ton* of correcting power. So much so that the pad doesn't really play a large part in how much it corrects. On the rotary, I was getting darn near as much correction with a white foam polishing pad as I was with a heavy twisted wool compounding pad. The major difference with M105 is how it finishes down with different pads. I didn't get nearly as good of a finish with the heavy wool compounding pad as I did with the white foam. It was still nice, just not *as* nice.
Using the white foam will still give you a huge amount of correction with M105, and allow it to finish down very well. You might even want to try it with a finessing pad like a black LC foam pad. I'd bet it would still give you all the correction you need with a very fine finish.
SuperBee364 said:
+1, I would also add that not only would I start with your least aggressive pad and M105, but also IMO, don't use M105 before you try a less aggressive compound/polish. It is seriously aggressive, but the finish it leaves behind can be deceiving as to the actual amount of cut.
I've tried it with a Gray 4" and 5" LC CCS and it cut just a good as the white, and as Superbee suggested it left an even finer finish.
Eisen Hulk
New member
Can't wait.....to get my....M105....in from....AG!!!!!!!!
I've got a 2006 Chevy Impala (black) that a customer is wanted perfected. I took a look at it, and it is ONE GIANT SWIRL. I know GM's are notorious for hard clears...do you think my PC, along with M105 and white 4" LC pad should be enough? I have the entire line of 4" LC pads, just as an FYI
I've got a 2006 Chevy Impala (black) that a customer is wanted perfected. I took a look at it, and it is ONE GIANT SWIRL. I know GM's are notorious for hard clears...do you think my PC, along with M105 and white 4" LC pad should be enough? I have the entire line of 4" LC pads, just as an FYI
SuperBee364
New member
EisenHulk said:
Prior to M105 coming along, I woulda said "not a chance with a PC". With M105, you got a real chance at getting it done. However, as NSXTASY mentioned, you should start out gentle before reaching for the big gun. Try SIP first. If it gives you the result you need, stay with it. No sense in removing more clear than necessary. Again, as NSXTASY mentioned, M105 finishes off so well, it kinda makes you think that it's more gentle than it is... using a traditional compound leaves you with hazey, swirly paint that makes you think, "wow, I just removed *alot* of clear". Well, M105 removes even *more* clear, but it doesn't seem like it did because of it's very fine finish, as well as the fact that it only took you a few seconds to do it. Keep that in mind the whole time you're using M105, and *especially* before you consider polishing the same area twice with M105.
Eisen Hulk
New member
Duly noted, sir.
Many thanks, Bee. I'll definitely start out with SIP.
Many thanks, Bee. I'll definitely start out with SIP.
SuperBee364 said:
imported_Chris223
New member
Well I bought the 12oz sampler of M105 from ADS, as well as #80. I plan to try #80 on a white pad first, and if that doesn't work, try it on an orange pad on my GM clear. If that doesn't work I guess I have to try the M105, I'm just worried about removing to much with it still though. Approx. how many passes does M105 need on a PC with a white pad?
SuperBee364
New member
Chris223 said:
As many as it takes to get it to flash over. Well, actually a bit less than that... you want to stop polishing right before it flashes over. You'll have to get the feel for it, but you're better off stopping early than continuing to buff once it's flashed over (gone dry). It's normal to need a spray of QD to remove the residue, btw. I thought I was doing something wrong since I was needing QD to remove it, but even the guy in Meguair's M105 training video uses QD to remove the residue. Even if you find that you don't *need* QD to remove it, you might want to anyway, as the abrasives in 105 don't really break down, and you're rubbing it across the paint when you're removing the residue. Having a bit of QD to lube it as you remove it is probably a good thing.
The actual number of passes depends on too many variables to give a hard number.
Chris223 said:
M105 by PC:
Lay a stripe of M105 on the 2x2 area, turn to 6, using pressure pick up the compound and immediately begin working it in a uniform pattern. Keep doing so until it begins to flash and do a light, no pressure pass.
M105 flashes and begins to dry relatively quickly, dont be surprised if you get 2 passes done and its time to do a light pass. Because of the relatively quick working time, you need to get right to work as soon as you pick up the compound.
I have no problem buffing off the residue, but to be on the safe side as superbee mentioned, using a QD for lubrication doesn't hurt.
I would consider getting M83/HTemp HC/SIP/OC as well, and trying that before you go to M105.
Eisen Hulk
New member
Great information. Thanks, NSX.
NSXTASY said:
imported_Chris223
New member
NSXTASY said:
Well I'm not a pro detailer. I need a polish for 4 cars at the moment, all family. And if a few friends want me to do theirs I'll do it, but the great majority of products I buy are for my car online, but I've tried SSR2.5 on an orange pad and really worked it and it didn't do much for me. I'm going to try #80 first, I'd consider #83 but I've seen on this board more than once that it can be a pain in the *** to use. I'm also going to try IP and FPII but I don't have the money to try ALL of those things listed above, I'd wind up with 8 bottles of polish in which some *might* get used once, and then never used again. I already have enough bottles of product sitting on my shelf that never gets used.
I may even try 105 by hand first, before I go to the PC with it. But by putting it down and going right to 6, wouldn't that sling it everywhere? Wouldn't I want to spread it around first?
SuperBee364
New member
Chris223 said:
Pre-spreading product evenly across the area I'm gonna buff works with every polish I've used, except for 105. You have to combine spreading it and working it at the same time. When you pick the stripe of 105 up off the paint, keep the PC slightly tilted so that the polish gets picked up underneath the pad, instead of just slinging out from the side. As soon as you have it picked up under the PC, get rid of the tilt, and start moving the PC pad across the area you want to polish. You still have to be careful about slinging, though. If you've used the right amount of polish, you shouldn't have too much problem with it slinging. This stuff is pretty hard to get the feel of, but the results are sure worth it.
Chris223 said:
Hi, I'm new here and not a pro so I've been hesitant when posting thus far. Don't miss out on a good product. I had a hard time with #83 at first. A little grabby also. Here is what I do using pc w/ orange/white pad. Prime the pad with a small X keeping the X about an inch from the edges on a 5.5" pad. Spread quickly on speed 3 a 2' x 2' area. Bump up to speed 6 and do one each of horizontal and vertical pass using moderate pressure. Now lighten up on the pressure and do another one each horizontal and vertical pass. If I still have a residue on the paint I will bump the speed down to 5 and do one more pass. Wipe off what little residue is left and you should be looking good. I think the most important things for me was to spread very quickly. If you spend too much time spreading, the 83 will already be drying out. Clean the pad often. Really lighten up on the pressure half way through. Move slow... about 2" per second. After your initial x to prime the pad, I'll use 3 to 4 pea sized dots.
I will go 80 or UF after that.
Envious Eric
New member
-dont spread it all over then work it in...work it in from the start
-I personally put the polish on the pad, not the panel (via PC), rotary it goes on the panel
-you get only about 2 passes if that (dries really fast)
-you can let it sit on the car and just polish with something like 83 right after (just did this method on a mercedes today, worked like a champ and only had to wipe off residue from the 80 (3 step - 105, 83, 80))
-if you want to remove and you overworked it, then use QD, or a touch more 105/83 to remove...sometimes QD alone wont remove it if overworked
-use smaller pads with the PC at all times...6.5" pads are seemingly too big after trying out smaller pads, I love the 5.5" lo profile ones from LC (AutoGeek.com Automotive Super Site)
-buy a gallon of 105 because after trying it out from a quart, i realize I should have just bought the gallon as its my new go to compound for any car (leaves a really nice finish)
that is just some of my personal experiences
-I personally put the polish on the pad, not the panel (via PC), rotary it goes on the panel
-you get only about 2 passes if that (dries really fast)
-you can let it sit on the car and just polish with something like 83 right after (just did this method on a mercedes today, worked like a champ and only had to wipe off residue from the 80 (3 step - 105, 83, 80))
-if you want to remove and you overworked it, then use QD, or a touch more 105/83 to remove...sometimes QD alone wont remove it if overworked
-use smaller pads with the PC at all times...6.5" pads are seemingly too big after trying out smaller pads, I love the 5.5" lo profile ones from LC (AutoGeek.com Automotive Super Site)
-buy a gallon of 105 because after trying it out from a quart, i realize I should have just bought the gallon as its my new go to compound for any car (leaves a really nice finish)
that is just some of my personal experiences
imported_Chris223
New member
Autodetailingsolutions.com. I ordered the 12oz sampler as well as a bottle of #80.
I'm going to try the 80 first on a white pad on my car, ma's Suburban, Sisters Accord and Bro-in-laws 4runner. We'll see how it goes. I have SFX 3 and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze (older version) to follow it up with if it doesn't leave the paint LSP ready. I'm thinking the 80 will work with the Honda and Toyota because of the softer paint, but I just don't know about the Suburban and my GP
I'm going to try the 80 first on a white pad on my car, ma's Suburban, Sisters Accord and Bro-in-laws 4runner. We'll see how it goes. I have SFX 3 and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze (older version) to follow it up with if it doesn't leave the paint LSP ready. I'm thinking the 80 will work with the Honda and Toyota because of the softer paint, but I just don't know about the Suburban and my GP
What a great site for the hobbyist that doesn't need to purchase in bulk like a pro would!
I ordered 12oz. sample bottles of 80, 83, 85 and 105 along with single servings of some misc. items I needed (wet sand paper, sanding block and an extra grout sponge) for less then I was ready to order a bottle of SIP for! ADS for the win!
I ordered 12oz. sample bottles of 80, 83, 85 and 105 along with single servings of some misc. items I needed (wet sand paper, sanding block and an extra grout sponge) for less then I was ready to order a bottle of SIP for! ADS for the win!