What have you all found to be the longest lasting liquid carnuba?

i have not found anything that beats 845 (ease or durability). that's why i've used it for 33 years. it was great then and is great now. my DD CTS has been done since august and still looks wet and beads like a prostitute sweating in church. ;)

look at the wet shine on my white C6 (avatar) :woohoo:
 
Sounds like most everyone agrees 845 is the best so far. Does it give any depth and wetness to reds? If not, could I top it with something like Poorboy's EX, Red Moose, or another carnuba to give some gloss and wetness without taking away from 845's durability?



Accumulator said:
My recommendation is to put up with the tougher application of a paste and try the Collinite 476S/885 (same product, different containers). Their 845 *is* a great liquid, but I just don't get the durability that others do with it :nixweiss



If you can find some #16 it'd be worth a try...yeah it's a paste, but it sorta "turns liquid" when you use it and IMO/IME it's very user-friendly. Quite durable too.



It's been ages since I last used Malm's liquid...I honestly can't remember how durable it was :think: I used it most on the Jag, and that got redone all the time....but it sure did do the "beads roll off when you apply the brakes" thing, I do remember that.
Click to expand...

Well I was going to use my 7424 to spread the liquid waxes, but I guess applying wax by hand wouldn't be too bad. If I could get a solid 4 months out of 845 that would be fine with me



jimmie jam said:
i have not found anything that beats 845 (ease or durability). that's why i've used it for 33 years. it was great then and is great now. my DD CTS has been done since august and still looks wet and beads like a prostitute sweating in church. ;) look at the wet shine on my white C6 (avatar) :woohoo:
Click to expand...

:spit:





Do you all find that the 845 is more durable the more it is layered as with most sealants?
 
i have put NXT over 845 to pop it (on my avalanche). can't talk about the "durability" because it is garage kept 2003 with 14,000 miles on it and has never been driven in the rain (gotten trashed or used as a DD). :nixweiss
 
RedlineIRL said:
Is Carnuba Moose offered already mixed yet, or does it still require red and vanilla to be mixed? What are you getting as far as durabiliy with the carnuba moose?
Click to expand...



Carnauba Moose is ready to go right out of the bottle. It has nothing to do with VM or RMG other than they come from the same company.



I get 4-5 months durability even in the winter or when we get a lot of rain around here.
 
RedlineIRL said:
...[regarding the paste wax suggestions]...Well I was going to use my 7424 to spread the liquid waxes, but I guess applying wax by hand wouldn't be too bad. If I could get a solid 4 months out of 845 that would be fine with me..
Click to expand...



I do think you'll be happy with the 845. But just FWIW, I do 99.9% of my pastewax applications with the PC/Cyclo. OK, OK, I'll get off the pastewax soapbox now :o



Do you all find that the 845 is more durable the more it is layered as with most sealants?
Click to expand...



Yeah, definitely. Go for three/four layers. I'd wait at least 24 hours and I somehow suspect that longer is better.
 
Yeah, definitely. Go for three/four layers. I'd wait at least 24 hours and I somehow suspect that longer is better.
Click to expand...



I have three layers of 845 on my black Tribute and it is doing very well,

considering the horrible weather we've been having in the Chicago area.



Rob
 
Must be something wrong with me ... I never wait till the product fails to reapply a coat or two. I use P21s, and I know it give outstanding results with multiple applications over several weeks, but I don't recall ever seeing any of my cars 'clock out' of protection or shine.

The beading is still there, maybe not as tight 4/6 weeks later under daily use, but I can't recall seeing complete deterioration even 2 months later.

What are you considering failure, a specific look or feel, beading, reflection? Help me understand. Thanks.
 
jb1 said:
Sorry for the nOOb question, but is 476S just the 18 oz. version?
Click to expand...



I can't remember the actual quantities for each, but the 476S Double Coat is the smaller size and the 885 Fleetwax is the larger one.



Saintlysins- I'm pretty much the same way (though not to the extent of many here). Back when I had the (outside 24/7) Volvo wagon I'd let it go until it obviously needed redone (the single stage would sometimes start oxidizing before I got to it :o ), but nowadays I redo the LSP whenever some characteristic I value (usually slickness) starts to drop off. Better to stay ahead of the curve, huh?
 
I applied 3 layers of 476S to my car in weekly intervals after a wash in august. It is still going strong here at the end of December. I will probably wait until April before waxing again. My car sits outside 24 / 7 and it still beads like crazy.
 
Thanks “Accumulator� ... As you put it, “staying ahead of the curve� – and maintaining a waxed (protected) finish always seems better than starting from scratch every few months when the products are no longer effective. Works well for me.

I will add that the Ridgeline took a hit & run on the lower front bumper pretty hard and will need to be repainted. Since it’s my daily driver and my 24/7 in the elements vehicle, I certainly don’t want drive it around on Jersey’s Salted Winter Wonderland just after it’s been re-sprayed ... so I’m going to wait till March. In doing so, I’m going to monitor how long the P21s holds up and won’t do anything other than washings (usually weekly) until it’s back for a month from the body shop.

I know you’re a big fan of Collinite – and I seem to agree with the posts you’ve make, so I may break my vow to P21s and try it. At that point it’ll be time for a complete and thorough detail and a good way to run my own comparison.

Let you all know when the life of P21s comes to an end or starts failing.
 
I've been a fan of P21S for a few years too, mainly because it is so easy to apply and wipe off with MF towels and the effect on blacks and reds especially is amazing.



In between times and before going out, I will give the top panels another application to gain maximum effect & reflection.



There is absolutely NO chalking either.
 
Saintlysins said:
....I will add that the Ridgeline took a hit & run on the lower front bumper pretty hard and will need to be repainted. Since it’s my daily driver and my 24/7 in the elements vehicle, I certainly don’t want drive it around on Jersey’s Salted Winter Wonderland just after it’s been re-sprayed ... so I’m going to wait till March...[and I]..won’t do anything other than washings (usually weekly) until it’s back for a month from the body shop...
Click to expand...



Sorry to hear about the hit & run. I've gone both ways, waiting until spring and having it repaired immediately. Last few times I've gone through winter with fresh paint protected by Meg's #5 glaze and it worked out (surprisingly) OK.



After the paintwork, I'd wait a lot longer than a month before waxing/sealing; the paint manufacturers recommend at least 90 days and I usually wait even longer. There's a thread with the manufacturers' views on this if you want to search for it (search on username MirrorFinishMan). I've experienced some mighty dramatic curing/hardness effects that occurred well after the one-month point and I'd hate for anybody to end up with permanently soft (well, softer than it coulda been) paint just because they didn't wait. FWIW, I hear that Optimum's Car Wax has been deemed fresh-repaint-safe by Ford...but I just stick to Meg's #5 (partially out of habit, I've used it for this since the mid-70s).





I know you’re a big fan of Collinite..so I may break my vow to P21s and try it..
Click to expand...



I like the Collinite (pastes, not the biggest fan of 845) better on some paints than on others; I quit using it as a winter wax on the silver A8 because my wife and I both thought it just didn't look good enough. But on the pewter Blazer it looks fine :nixweiss IMO it's something you'd have to try for yourself, but hey, it's cheap enough and you can always use it for non-appearance-critical applications.



Compared to the P21s it (475/885, less so if you go with their 845) might mute your flake and appear less shiny. The A8 gets Meg's #16, which in *my* eyes is pretty similar to the P21s only with better durability and beading/shedding. If you've never tried #16 you really oughta track down a tin and give it a go.



Hmmm...getting back to Collinite, I wonder if the 845 might be more to your liking :think: I do think it'd last a good while longer than the P21s.
 
I agree with the wait times for paint cure, used to own a couple body shops, and on the soft-panels, the paint should go at least 6 weeks before waxing. I'll glaze it with each wash while waiting for the clock to run out though.



Thanks for the perspective on your Collinite choices.
 
I just thought I would add to this thread that ive had a bottle of 845 IW ever since I really got into detailing and have been on here a little over a year ago. Before trying a few sealants out, 845 IW was my go to wax on every car I detailed but I was never able to fully test its durability. I last polished my girlfriends white cavalier at the very first of July and added only 1 coat of 845. Since then, we have had everything from 20 degrees all the way up to 106 degrees. We have had 15 inches of rain in the last 2 months if not more and the car was washed with QEW/ONR 3-4 times since then. It is still beading, while not the tightest beads that a fresh collinite coat looks like, its still definately beading pretty darn good. The last time the car was washed was atleast 3 months ago might I add. 845 met and exceeded my expectations, especially considering the fact I only used on coat.
 
This report was also why I was a bit sceptical about Ultima products. Guru Reports didn't rate almost all of the heavily advertised synthetics and polymer coatings.



But now I have tried Ultima PGP on my victory red Chevy SSS I'm very pleased.
 
andybags said:
This report was also why I was a bit sceptical about Ultima products. Guru Reports didn't rate almost all of the heavily advertised synthetics and polymer coatings.



But now I have tried Ultima PGP on my victory red Chevy SSS I'm very pleased.
Click to expand...



The Guru Report is 4-5 years old now and many of the new synthetics weren't even on the market then.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top