I have 5 or so stone chips in the hood of my 96 minivan. I have tried in the past to touch these up but I'm not very good at it. Applied it to heavy ect. and you can see it a mile away. Would you please give me an idea on the best procedure. Do you apply the paint and then a clear coat over it? Could you all please give me some insight. Thanks
What do you think
- Thread starter buldog
- Start date
imported_Intel486
New member
Get some 2000 grit sandpaper and glue it to a rubber eraser with rubber cement. Then you can lightly sand the area until the touch-up paint is level with you original paint. Then use a compound such as 3m Swirl Mark Remover or Meguiars #9 to polish the area.
Also, soak the 2000 grit wet/dry paper in a solution with some dish soap. Learn how to wet sand on a practice panel. Clear coat is not always necessary, and in fact may make it stand out more. In summary, this stuff takes skill and practice to look "right", but it can be done by anyone willing to learn/practice. Just dont expect a 30 minute miracle. Body shops can do it quickly, and sometimes quite reasonably. I suggest that route if you want it to look right and are unable/unwilling to spend the time learning. It's worth learning.
riprath
New member
theres guys out there that do airbrush touch ups and they look pretty good. if you find the guy. i even have a guy come to my detail shop and do my touch ups for me. its not wourth it for me to mess with doing 4-5 chips and spending all that time when he can do all the chips on the hood bumper and fenders in like half the time. i pay dealer price and its only about $40-$60 depending on how many chips and how bad they are. check with a local car dealer to find a guy thats pretty good. most car lots have someone come in a touch up there cars. they will most likely be mobile too so you shouldnt even have to leave the house.
hope this helps, sean
hope this helps, sean
Airbrush t- up is fine, but time consuming, works best on very big chips; 1/8 inch or bigger. Good idea about the sandpaper trick, however, if you do this use only 2500 or smaller grit paper - don't need any unecessary scraches. And a caution about tinted clearcoat as it can distort, it will look burned or have a dull spot. Learned that the hard way! 3/32 scrach hand rubbed out and it left the above - off to the bodyshop. Thank the head detailer in the sky the service dept scratched it and my butt was covered
" ouch." And you migth be thinking too much pressure - nope - i let the compound do the work only. Lesson learned!
How I do my tup is with a 000 tup brush, then when filled in; let dry, compound lightly to remove excess paint outside the chip and to make it level, and then polish to bring out the color. Do not use wax as it will dull the paint. I only do this on very big chips on the retail level and new cars at the dealers - has worked perfect every time. Otherwise, I just dab very carefully, the paint in the chip - trying not to leave any excess outside the chip.You can use clear mixed in with the paint but it takes longer for the above process or if you are careful, after the above. I would not do this process on tinted clearcoats reread above! Dab only! ! !
Silver and gold colors are a bitch to look correct - they look light in the sun dark in the shade. All colors will dry darker so the color always needs to be adjusted - this is maybe way the color is noticeable.
" ouch." And you migth be thinking too much pressure - nope - i let the compound do the work only. Lesson learned!
How I do my tup is with a 000 tup brush, then when filled in; let dry, compound lightly to remove excess paint outside the chip and to make it level, and then polish to bring out the color. Do not use wax as it will dull the paint. I only do this on very big chips on the retail level and new cars at the dealers - has worked perfect every time. Otherwise, I just dab very carefully, the paint in the chip - trying not to leave any excess outside the chip.You can use clear mixed in with the paint but it takes longer for the above process or if you are careful, after the above. I would not do this process on tinted clearcoats reread above! Dab only! ! !
Silver and gold colors are a bitch to look correct - they look light in the sun dark in the shade. All colors will dry darker so the color always needs to be adjusted - this is maybe way the color is noticeable.
imported_Termigator
New member
I have never used Adam products. As far as polishes go, I'm a big fan of Menzerna, especially PF106fa. It has a good amount of cut and finishes down real nice. My other favorites are Meguiar's M105 and M205. I initially had trouble finishing down with M205, but then something just clicked and I haven't had any trouble since. It's also only about half the cost of PF106fa.:clap:
I'd also talk about waxes and sealants, but that's wholly subjective, so I'm not going bother.:smile:
I'd also talk about waxes and sealants, but that's wholly subjective, so I'm not going bother.:smile:
imported_Termigator
New member
Since you're asking, my favorite sealants are Blackfire Wet Diamond, Menzerna Powerlock and DP Poly-Coat. I like Blackfire and Powerlock (I tend to group the two together because I honestly can't tell the difference between them)the best because they are both easy on, and easy off (after 30 minute wait for it to dry) and give off a great sparkle. They also both leave the slickest finish out of anything out there. I like Poly-Coat a lot too because it's very reasonably priced and it lasts a very long time. It's doesn't leave a very slick finish, but it keeps beading for months even after weekly washes.
For carnauba waxes, I like Blackfire Midnight Sun, Wolfgang Fuzion, S100 and Meguiar's #26. To me Midnight Sun and Fuzion look great on my nonmetallic red Prelude because it gives a little bit of extra reflection that I really like. S100 gives a unique look that I really don't know how to describe. I just really like it. It's also the easiest wax to apply and remove. It's also only $15 at the local Harley dealership. Meguiar's #26 is not that easy to apply (Not hard, but not easy, if you know what I mean) and a little hard to remove, but it's cheap, you can get it at your local Autozone and if your car is properly polished, it gives exceptionally deep reflections. I wouldn't hesitate using Midnight Sun, Fuzion, or S100 on either metallic or nonmetallic paints, but I would only use #26 on solid colors.
Mind you, these are just my opinions. I'm sure other people will have different ones. I'm sure they'll be chiming in very soon.:smile:
Leadfootluke
New member
I've been torn apart on the Adams forum for recommending Meguiars, Optimum, Lake Country, etc on other forums, not theirs. I have had extremely bad experience with their forum reps and their attitude.
As far as products go, I wanted to start with enough product to do a few details, and by using the products I did (M105/M205, Megs APC/Dressings, Optimum Waxes/Sealant/Polish/etc) I saved a couple hundred dollars by going that route vs. the Adams route. Even though I have not used Adams products, and I cannot say if they truly aren't the best in the world, I have felt from recommendations here and by pricing things out, Adams was out of the question.
However, if you want to try some other products, I will happily trade you. I have been wanting to compare Adams to my current products. I have a decent collection of products and would gladly trade you for their Adam's equivalent so you can have the opportunity to try out new stuff as well.
As far as products go, I wanted to start with enough product to do a few details, and by using the products I did (M105/M205, Megs APC/Dressings, Optimum Waxes/Sealant/Polish/etc) I saved a couple hundred dollars by going that route vs. the Adams route. Even though I have not used Adams products, and I cannot say if they truly aren't the best in the world, I have felt from recommendations here and by pricing things out, Adams was out of the question.
However, if you want to try some other products, I will happily trade you. I have been wanting to compare Adams to my current products. I have a decent collection of products and would gladly trade you for their Adam's equivalent so you can have the opportunity to try out new stuff as well.
I am not really sure that I want to trade anything but I will be picking up some of the suggestions and trying them, however I appreciate the offer. I am very surprised about the attitude.. I hate that kind of crap. I like that I can get my Adams delivered by the local rep to my door and that it is 100% US made. Good experiences but it is a bit pricey I guess. I want to try some of the suggestion and will over the next couple weeks and provide some feedback. Thanks again and any other suggestions are appreciated.
imported_Bunky
New member
For polishes, it pays to use products used by the mainstream especially if you are learning since you will likely to get more help on your specific issue. As recommended above, Menzerna/Meguiars are quite popular with many so if you had an issue you will find advice from many.
As for detail sprays and waxes, it is just what do you like. There are just so many. There are advocates (brand bigots) for many of them to the point where they refuse to acknowledge other brands as even meets minimums. My analogy is if you go into a bar that caters to Green Bay Packers fans, do not expect much support the Vikings. This is true with some product forums regarding brands.
The best approach is either buy outright, buy samples, or trade to experiment. Use what you like (price, appearance, application, scent, etc). It does not matter as long as you are happy.
As for detail sprays and waxes, it is just what do you like. There are just so many. There are advocates (brand bigots) for many of them to the point where they refuse to acknowledge other brands as even meets minimums. My analogy is if you go into a bar that caters to Green Bay Packers fans, do not expect much support the Vikings. This is true with some product forums regarding brands.
The best approach is either buy outright, buy samples, or trade to experiment. Use what you like (price, appearance, application, scent, etc). It does not matter as long as you are happy.
You too Luke?
I have had write-ups deleted on forums they sponsor, no one was ever able to give me a good reason why the threads where deleted.
imported_RaskyR1
New member
Very good advice IMO. :thumbup:
At the end of the day just about any company's products can deliver outstanding results if you allow adequate time to dial in their application process.
Ease of use and cost should always be a factor, especially if you detail full time. I've not used Adams so can't comment on them, but their products are definitely higher priced, and just because they are made in the US isn't enough to make me want to try them.
Curious how their MF towels are made in the US though...
imported_Mr. Gloss
New member
I'm new at this game and realize that people can spend their money on whatever product they think works best for them.
Adams Glass Cleaner is $34.95 per gallon. It is ready to use, no dilution recommended. So you're probably paying shipping on 100 ounces of water and 28 ounces of chemical.
Meguiars Glass Cleaner is $17.99 per gallon of concentrate and makes 11 gallons of quality glass cleaner.
I'm going to make the most sensible choice.
Do they claim that their MF products are Made in USA?
Adams Glass Cleaner is $34.95 per gallon. It is ready to use, no dilution recommended. So you're probably paying shipping on 100 ounces of water and 28 ounces of chemical.
Meguiars Glass Cleaner is $17.99 per gallon of concentrate and makes 11 gallons of quality glass cleaner.
I'm going to make the most sensible choice.
Do they claim that their MF products are Made in USA?
Leadfootluke
New member
I made a post on a forum Adams does not sponsor and it got dragged over to their forum. This is a member of their forum copying and pasting what I wrote on another car forum.
That's exactly what my post was about.
Some of the replies
Great post, and most people out there focus on price over quality. That's why is Wal-Mart so successful!
If you go to China for your polisher, towels, backing plate, etc, it is much cheaper. Figure, remove the "labor" part of the manufacturing, and walla, cheap goods!
I think there is one more thing that people don't put a $ value on, and that's the guarantee. If you buy from any of those companies, and are unhappy, get ready to pay a restocking fee, pay shipping both ways, and wait 30+ days for a refund.
We give a 110% refund, including shipping, immediately if unsatisfied. Is that worth a few extra bucks? Judging by the above post, some don't think so!
atriot:
Yeah, this is one of the guys who lowballs everything and then wonders why the results don't look very good. Heck, he could just use pledge on the finish and be done with it. Why doesn't he go that way?That would be a cost savings over the assembly of all the inferior products.
And gee, his assemblage is not an integrated system with everything working together. I guess the bottom line question is, what is good enough for you? For me, if I am going to put in all the effort, I want the results, period. I have been burned too many times with products and claims that never really come true (aka snakeoil), which is why Adam's is refreshing - it does what they say it does.
There will always be those people who focus on cheapest and not worry about quality. Those people will never have cars a shiny as ours.
There is alot more to a product then just price, for me customer service, quality, and American made are the three important factors.
Great post, and most people out there focus on price over quality. That's why is Wal-Mart so successful!
If you go to China for your polisher, towels, backing plate, etc, it is much cheaper. Figure, remove the "labor" part of the manufacturing, and walla, cheap goods!
I think there is one more thing that people don't put a $ value on, and that's the guarantee. If you buy from any of those companies, and are unhappy, get ready to pay a restocking fee, pay shipping both ways, and wait 30+ days for a refund.
We give a 110% refund, including shipping, immediately if unsatisfied. Is that worth a few extra bucks? Judging by the above post, some don't think so!
Yeah, this is one of the guys who lowballs everything and then wonders why the results don't look very good. Heck, he could just use pledge on the finish and be done with it. Why doesn't he go that way?
And gee, his assemblage is not an integrated system with everything working together. I guess the bottom line question is, what is good enough for you? For me, if I am going to put in all the effort, I want the results, period. I have been burned too many times with products and claims that never really come true (aka snakeoil), which is why Adam's is refreshing - it does what they say it does.
There will always be those people who focus on cheapest and not worry about quality. Those people will never have cars a shiny as ours.
There is alot more to a product then just price, for me customer service, quality, and American made are the three important factors.
You get the idea. I'm a hack who buys products from China, like Meguairs, Collinite, Optimum, Lake Country, etc.
Leadfootluke
New member
:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: