What do I need for paint on a new vehicle?

brazosdog02

New member
I need to wash and clay bar, but the paint is pretty good since its new. I already have HD Polish and Megs 101 if that matters.



1.) What products do I need to polish up and protect it?


2.) What shampoo is good for the vehicle for regular washing as well as prep for polishing?


3.) What is a good product to deal with tar and bugs...neither of which I can usually get off easily.



I wanted to add that I have the PC machine. My goal for this daily driver is as follows:


Get stuff off the paint from the 6 months I've owned it new, make it shiny, but mostly I want to protect the paint and need it protected for 6 mo to a year. I can't spend 8 hours every week doing it. The goal is that I want paint to be in decent shape in 250,000 miles. Yes, I keep them that long.
 
Since the vehicle is new, I'd recommend claying the car and using Iron X followed by polishing with the HD Polish which you mention that you have. As far as protection I'd recommend a sealant such as Menzerna Power Lock followed by a wax such as Collinite 845.

As far as tar, I use Tarminator by Stoners. For bug guts you can presoak with an all purpose cleaner to loosen up the bugs and then follow that with a pressure washer.

3D Pink Soap is good. Chemical guys has many soaps to choose from as well.

Hopefully this helps and good luck!
 
Alright...another set of questions:


 


Which steps in the Polish, Seal, Wax process is it OK to use my DA and which should I do by hand?


 


Do you use the DA for wiping off/buffing out any of these products?  If so, which pad should I use to do this?  If not, what product do I use to do it by hand?
 
You can use the DA to apply each step but do the removal part of each step by hand with a high quality microfiber towel.

If youre looking for long term protection I'd think about bypassing the traditional sealants and look into a coating like opti coat, cquartz, pinnacle black label, etc...
 
What about HD Poxy?  Does that fall in your list of non traditional sealants?


 


Also, do you have a recomendation on a quality car wash?
 
HD Nitro seal would be the one to look at there as far as a non traditional sealant.

I'm a big fan of optimum car wash
 
Agdodge4X4-  Rather than clay it (and I'm no hater of clay, use it all the time...) I'd decontaminate it with ValuGard "ABC", which is approved/specified by Chrysler Corp. for this exact thing.


 


Your other Qs:


 


-HD Polish (M101 where needed) followed by whatever LSP you prefer (I usually use FK1000P).  I do not advocate topping sealants with wax, but rather choose the one single LSP that's best for the given applicaton.


 


-IMO Griot's Car Wash is the best affordable wash.  I'm currently experimenting with a 1:1 mix of Griot's and the 3D Pink and that seems OK (and a bit cheaper than straight Griots).  DO NOT use cheapie shampoos as they have poor lubricity and mediocre encapsulation.


 


-I use mild clay (Sonus SFX) to "clay my LSP clean" when I need to remove bugs/tar.  Done correctly this won't strip the LSP, but if the bugs really penetrate you'll need to do more.


 


-Polish by machine, but buff off the polish residue by hand (before it dries).


 


-To apply LSPs, use the polisher if you prefer it or do it by hand.  You can buff off LSP residue with MF bonnets (they fit over pads) but you'll still need to get that last 2% by hand. DO NOT use "terry" bonnets.
 
So, if my paint is NEW, then why would I need M101?  I dont have any swirl marks or scratches...ahem...rather, I don't have any that I consider bothersome.  Of course they are there.


 


Is HD Poxy suitable for a LSP in this app? 


 


Also, Im trying to buy from one place...autoality...is there a suitable wash from them?  What about Ultima Paint Gaurd?


 


Sorry for all th questions...just trying to get my head around some things.
 
Hey Agdodge,


 


If your paint is in good shape, no need for anything heavier than a light polish. The HD polish you have should work great.


 


HD Poxy is a very suitable last step. It will last as long as any of the traditional sealants out there.


 


If you are looking to stick with the 3D/HD line, Autoality does carry the 3D Pink Car Soap and HD Wash. ;)
 
Is there a particular clay product(s) i need to properly clay the vehicle prior to polishing?  I have the mothers clay kit.  Is that good enough?
 
Which color pad should I use to apply HD Polish?  Im a bit confused on the difference between the different color polishing pads vs. finishing pads.  I have a black finishing pad in my cart, but I also have a light polishing pad.


 


Im thinking I need to use a black finishing pad to apply the polish, since im not really fixing any paint issues.  If so...should I use the black finishing pad or get a black microfiber finishing pad??


 


Also, after I do the HD Polish, which pad do I use to apply the HD Poxy??
 
I myself would use the light polishing pad, but a lot of it is merely personal preference.  I find many finishing pads are just too "tight" for my taste when it comes to using polishes.; I prefer a pad with larger pores.  But that's just me...


 


I'd use the black pad for the Poxy.
 
Accumulator said:
I myself would use the light polishing pad, but a lot of it is merely personal preference. I find many finishing pads are just too "tight" for my taste when it comes to using polishes.; I prefer a pad with larger pores. But that's just me...



I'd use the black pad for the Poxy.


Completely agree with this
 
I have a 'mega order' now. 


 


Wonder if its all worth it. Hard to convince the significant other when she looks at my 12 year old paint on the truck that has spent its life outside, never been waxed, and gets washed only on occasion and says "so what...it has a couple of scratches".  :(
 
agdodge4x4:


Your "first priority" in detailing equipment/products should be for washing-and-drying your vehicle. You will be doing (and using) this most often to your pride-and-joy. Improper washing techniques and the wrong wash items (equipment/towels/chemicals) will cause more paint problems than anything most vehicle owners do on their own, even with the best of intention.


I still prefer the 2-bucket method for washing over rinse-less washes. At a minimum you will need:


1) 3 different 5-gallon buckets; (1) for soap for painted panels, (1) for rinse water, (1) for wheels and inner fenders


2) At least (1) Grit Guard for the rinse water bucket


3) 2 different wash pads/sponges/wool wash mitts; (1) for the paint, (1) for wheels/tires/inner fenders KEEP THEM SEPERATE FOR EACH TASK


Some Autopians love natural bristle boar-hair brushes for scrubbing/washing, but they are expensive.  Wash mediums (meaning pads/sponges/mitts/brushes) are personal preference.


4) Bug pad for grills, windshields, and side mirrors and wheel pad for the rims/spokes


5) Assortment of brushes. I highly suggest having a Daytona or E-Z Detail brush for rim barrels and a fender brush with longer bristles.


6) Stoner's Tarminator for removing tar from rims and rocker panels


7) Two  decent waffle-weave towels for drying. Quality chamois are old-school, but it's a preference thing. NEVER USE COTTON BATH TOWELS.


8) At least 5 quality Microfiber towels/rags (Yes, there are various types of microfiber towels and the quality runs from cheap (not on my vehicle) to expensive.


9) Some type of wheel cleaner for brake dust. (I like OTC Eagle A-to-Z wheel cleaner because its good and inexpensive).


10) Some type of car wash dedicated soap (I am currently using Optimum's Car Wash  on a recommendation from fellow Autopians)


NEVER USE LAUNDRY DETERGENT OR DISH SOAP ON A CAR. (I've used DAWN in an emergency that's-all-I-have situation, though)


11) Window cleaner like Stoner's Invisible Glass or Sprayway Glass Cleaner and two quality designed-for-glass-cleaning/wiping microfiber cloth, (1) for applying the cleaner and (1) for wiping it off. DO NOT USE AMMONIA-BASED GLASS CLEANERS, LIKE WINDEX. (I think it causes streaks)


12) OPTIONAL ITEMS:


Metro Blaster for drying (Air compressors or leaf blowers are alternate ideas, but NEVER use a leaf blower that has been used as a leaf vacuum)


Gilmore Foam-master II foam gun for soap soaking (like a touchless car wash does)


Power washer.


 


You'll have a sizeable (read monetary) investment if you follow this list, BUT it will provide many years of less-problems with keep your vehicle looking clean and the paint with less swirls.


 


Oh yes. one more suggestion: NEVER LET THE DEALER WASH YOUR VEHICLE DURING ROUTINE MAINTENACE/SERVICE, EVEN IF IT'S FREE AND INCLUDED WITH THE SERVICE. There are horror stories galore about individuals who have made this "mistake"  and have their vehicle "boogered-up" by some ill- trained and unskilled lot-jockey. If you want the dealer to do it, ask to see the process, people, and equipment. Like most here, one inspection and observation will tell you why you will skip letting someone else wash your vehicle. 
 
Since Lonnie mentioned the Boar's Hair Brushes ("BHB") and the foamgun...


 


I use the foamgun in conjunction with a BHB (the "Blonde" one from Universal Brush or the "Montana" from AutoGeek) when washing.  I spray the foamgun's output at the point of BHB-to-paint contact, effecting a "disldoge and flush" approach that minimizes wash-induced marring.  It can go pretty quick too, as dfoxengr has found.


 


And I'm all about using BHBs for wheels too, they rinse clean *so* easily.
 
Sorry, I missed the part about the "12 year-old paint". Chances are you will not be taking back to the dealer for service. My bad!


 


On another related note, depending where you live, your front bumper may have bug-guts splatter etching on it if it has not been washed frequently. Short of wet-sanding or a paint re-spray, you may just have to live with that. You can minimize the etching damage haze with some compounding/polishing, but you may not be able to remove it completely. It's another reason why it's important to at least clean off the bug splatter on regular basis. The same goes for bird droppings (bombs); that debris is NASTY stuff that really etches paint in a hurry in the hot summer sun. It gets even worse if left on, and then it rains lightly, and the sun comes out. Quick-detailers for exterior surfaces and a microfiber towel/cloth are a must if you do not feel (or cannot) wash the entire vehicle.
 
The 12 year old paint is on another vehicle.  That is the vehicle I am going to use as my guinea pig to attempt polishing with a DA. 
 
Back
Top