What are the must-have's for your rotary arsenal?

B

BuffMe

New member
I'm talking which pads, polishes, bonnets, and/or any other things you believe are must-have's for using a rotary effectively and efficiently. I'll be making the move to it quite soon and want to get everything covered in one order. Thanks!
 
-FPW-I'd say at least five 6.5" and two 3.5". These have awesome correcting ability but they take some getting used to...they've been skipping/hopping around a bit too much for my taste. Probably user error.

-Spur

-Backing plates for 6.5" LC pads (I like the Meg's W66) and 4" pads. I also got a 4 3/4 backing plate so I can use my 5.5" pads that I previously used via UDM.

-Edge 3k and 6" wool and foam, if you want to go that route. I wouldn't say this is a requirement but some really like this system.

-Your favorite polishes...I like Menzerna. I don't have enough experience with the rotary and other polishes yet....
 
shine said:
-FPW-I'd say at least five 6.5" and two 3.5". These have awesome correcting ability but they take some getting used to...they've been skipping/hopping around a bit too much for my taste. Probably user error.

-Spur

-Backing plates for 6.5" LC pads (I like the Meg's W66) and 4" pads. I also got a 4 3/4 backing plate so I can use my 5.5" pads that I previously used via UDM.

-Edge 3k and 6" wool and foam, if you want to go that route. I wouldn't say this is a requirement but some really like this system.

-Your favorite polishes...I like Menzerna. I don't have enough experience with the rotary and other polishes yet....
Click to expand...



Shine, that's a common problem with SIP and PFW. Well, a common problem with SIP and *any* pad, really, not just the PFW. But if it's happening with other polishes, try spreading the polish through the area you are gonna buff until it's *very* even. Unfortunately, you can't do that with 105, but it works well with most everything else. I always make sure that the whole "polish box" is completely even with polish before I up the RPM and get to work. If you're still having hopping problems, try a spritz of a QD on the PFW before you use it. Then the last thing to try is to make sure that you keep an even weighting on the entire pad surface; if it's trying to move one direction by itself, slightly raise (or lower, as appropriate) the buffer handle until it stops. Buffer hop can be soooo annoying.. I feel your pain. But usually doing some/all of these steps will elliminate it. SIP is the only one I still have the odd hopping problem with anymore, thank heavens. Let us know how it goes!



Edit: Sheesh, once again I do an entire post that's totally off-topic.. sorry. :o



My must-haves:



six 6.5" PFW's

3 3.5" PFW's

The entire 6" line of Edge 2k wool (although not really a necessity, cause the PFW's replace alot of the edge wool, I still like/use them all. One of them, in particular ;) That one being the white finishing wool)

2 6" Edge 2k red wave foam finishing pads.

2 4" black (or blue) LC foam finishing pads

2 4" white LC foam finishing pads



Menzerna Polishes: SIP, PO106FF, PO85RD, FPII

Megs M105 and M95

RMG

DWG
 
SuperBee364 said:
Shine, that's a common problem with SIP and PFW. Well, a common problem with SIP and *any* pad, really, not just the PFW. But if it's happening with other polishes, try spreading the polish through the area you are gonna buff until it's *very* even. Unfortunately, you can't do that with 105, but it works well with most everything else. I always make sure that the whole "polish box" is completely even with polish before I up the RPM and get to work. If you're still having hopping problems, try a spritz of a QD on the PFW before you use it. Then the last thing to try is to make sure that you keep an even weighting on the entire pad surface; if it's trying to move one direction by itself, slightly raise (or lower, as appropriate) the buffer handle until it stops. Buffer hop can be soooo annoying.. I feel your pain. But usually doing some/all of these steps will elliminate it. SIP is the only one I still have the odd hopping problem with anymore, thank heavens. Let us know how it goes!
Click to expand...



I was actually using HTEC and FPW (for the first time). I tried:



-spurring after each application and not spurring after each app.

-a mist of QD on work panel

or

-a mist of QD on the pad

(any QDing caused the FPW to shed and didn't help much with skipping)

-very little HTEC on the pad....and then probably too much



I never had chance to get above 900-1k RPM. It was that bad. It was also very humid and ~85-90F. Somehow I managed to finish the whole minivan with it but I knew I wasn't getting the best results because there were still several deeper scratches.



What I probably did not do enough is spread the polish around current work area before buffing it out. I'll have to try that next time. Thanks Supe!
 
I figured I already had most of these products in mind but wasn't sure on the pad/backing plate combos. I appreciate all of the responses. Keep 'em comin!
 
shine said:
I was actually using HTEC and FPW (for the first time). I tried:



-spurring after each application and not spurring after each app.

-a mist of QD on work panel

or

-a mist of QD on the pad

(any QDing caused the FPW to shed and didn't help much with skipping)

-very little HTEC on the pad....and then probably too much



I never had chance to get above 900-1k RPM. It was that bad. It was also very humid and ~85-90F. Somehow I managed to finish the whole minivan with it but I knew I wasn't getting the best results because there were still several deeper scratches.



What I probably did not do enough is spread the polish around current work area before buffing it out. I'll have to try that next time. Thanks Supe!
Click to expand...



Oh, Shine, one last thing... Rydawg gave me this tip, but I usually only associate it with SIP, but really it can apply to any polish... Make sure you have *completely* stripped the LSP off of the vehicle. I even strip any QD that might still be left from claying. Use a good prep like prepsol or even a 50/50 IPA wipedown. Some LSP's wreck havoc with polishes. I was having a heck of a time getting SIP to work last year until Rydawg told me about this. After I stripped the LSP with a good IPA wipedown, the hopping problem was gone.
 
I normally wash a car great with a mild alkaline cleaner, clay, and then 91% straight IPA before polishing. It helps a lot. I normally get a bunch of jobs where the customer had waxed their cars within the past 2 weeks.



Menzerna makes great polishes, but the finish has to be free and clear of everything and has to be completly bare 100%.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Oh, Shine, one last thing... Rydawg gave me this tip, but I usually only associate it with SIP, but really it can apply to any polish... Make sure you have *completely* stripped the LSP off of the vehicle. I even strip any QD that might still be left from claying. Use a good prep like prepsol or even a 50/50 IPA wipedown. Some LSP's wreck havoc with polishes. I was having a heck of a time getting SIP to work last year until Rydawg told me about this. After I stripped the LSP with a good IPA wipedown, the hopping problem was gone.
Click to expand...



Glad to have helped you out. Your a great learner:waxing:
 
SuperBee364 said:
Oh, Shine, one last thing... Rydawg gave me this tip, but I usually only associate it with SIP, but really it can apply to any polish... Make sure you have *completely* stripped the LSP off of the vehicle. I even strip any QD that might still be left from claying. Use a good prep like prepsol or even a 50/50 IPA wipedown. Some LSP's wreck havoc with polishes. I was having a heck of a time getting SIP to work last year until Rydawg told me about this. After I stripped the LSP with a good IPA wipedown, the hopping problem was gone.
Click to expand...



I'll remember to keep this in mind next time. Thanks for the tip Supe and rydawg! :dance
 
It's hard to find here in the states. Nevertheless, I ordered one to go with my two rotary tools. Might have to get another so I don't have to keep changing them around so much.
 
shine said:
I was actually using HTEC and FPW (for the first time). I tried:



-spurring after each application and not spurring after each app.

-a mist of QD on work panel

or

-a mist of QD on the pad

(any QDing caused the FPW to shed and didn't help much with skipping)

-very little HTEC on the pad....and then probably too much



I never had chance to get above 900-1k RPM. It was that bad. It was also very humid and ~85-90F. Somehow I managed to finish the whole minivan with it but I knew I wasn't getting the best results because there were still several deeper scratches.



What I probably did not do enough is spread the polish around current work area before buffing it out. I'll have to try that next time. Thanks Supe!
Click to expand...



Humidity is a huge factor with SIP... PG and 106ff do pretty well, but SIP is horrible to work with in high humidity from my experience. The other day it was 85* with 85+ humidity here in Chicago, and SIP would gum up and melt after 1-2 passes @ 1200 on a Meg's 8006 pad. Today it worked fine in 75-80* weather with low humidity.



rydawg said:
Menzerna makes great polishes, but the finish has to be free and clear of everything and has to be completly bare 100%.
Click to expand...



Couldn't agree more.
 
FIRST AND FOREMOST - EARPLUGS.



If you have superhuman 21 yr old hearing like me, you'll thank yourself. I had some issues a month ago so I decided to go earplugs, best decision ever. Man what a difference.



I'll bet I could use my shooting muffs for that too, those thin ones with microphones. I wonder if I could adjust them to knock out the polisher, or if it's loud enough to trigger the cutoff. Hmm. You guys know what I mean? They have microphones on the otuside and speakers inside so you can hear people talking even better than before, but gunshots are tuned out by the processor.



SuperBee364 said:
Oh, Shine, one last thing... Rydawg gave me this tip, but I usually only associate it with SIP, but really it can apply to any polish... Make sure you have *completely* stripped the LSP off of the vehicle. I even strip any QD that might still be left from claying. Use a good prep like prepsol or even a 50/50 IPA wipedown. Some LSP's wreck havoc with polishes. I was having a heck of a time getting SIP to work last year until Rydawg told me about this. After I stripped the LSP with a good IPA wipedown, the hopping problem was gone.
Click to expand...



Glad you said it.



I was going to say that not only do LSPs, PARTICULARLY sealants, (let alone the obvious silicone curses) but QDs also cause SIP to skip. That's why I've been working with glycerine/h20/even mineral oil mixtures as experimental external sprayed QD or pre-mixed added lubricants for my menz. I found that plan water REALLY makes the pad want to skip, and QD usually makes the polish clump up on the paint after a bit. You'll hear a squeaky sound and see a tight, thick layer of greyed polish. It's weird. I try to use what menz uses (currently just more polish) if this happens until I figure out my little experiment. I know it will work, I just need more test panels...
 
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