Wet Sanding??

Beemerboy

Just One More Coat
I have done this from time to time...with good results.

I was wondering for those here that have years of experience with wet sanding if we could open a dialog about the do's and dont's of the process...

Grades of sand paper
Lighting
What is and what is not wet sand-able
Buffers and pads used
Products / products

For my I use halogens for the lighting, start with 400 grit sandpaper...lightly sand the area, then look at it closely...I keep the rotary with a light cutting pad and some SSR 2.5 ready...I go over the area with the buffer to see what they looks like...wipe the area with the 50/50 alcohol water mixture to see what I have removed and what is needed...I repeat this until I have the results that I am looking for.

Yesterdays wet sand came out real good, but I had one heck of a time getting the wet sand marks off the paint...I don't have a wool pad that attaches to the Edge adapter...need to get one...I was able to get them out using the 2.5 and a cutting pad...and lots of time...for a short period of time I was in a cold sweat but it came out in the end:bow

Anyway I want to learn from the more experienced here

Thanks
 
what could you need 400 grit for? 1200 , 1500, or 2000 would be the most aggressive i would get on a factroy clearcoat :hmmm:
 
I would suggest always using a sanding block under the wet sand paper. And always work with the body line. Just my .02
 
The 3M 400 grit is very fine...but you think the 1200 and up is the way to go?

400 is 400 and should be left to nice thick paint or gelcoat. Unless your prepping the panel for repaint, I'm with Poorboy on this one. I've used 800 before but I think I could have done just as well with 1200 and been safer.

(Did you see that Poorboy? I agreed with you.:wow:)
 
400 is 400 and should be left to nice thick paint or gelcoat. Unless your prepping the panel for repaint, I'm with Poorboy on this one. I've used 800 before but I think I could have done just as well with 1200 and been safer.

(Did you see that Poorboy? I agreed with you.:wow:)


Yea I marked in on my calendar already:D

Thanks I will get some 800 and 1200 grit. I have a car coming this week that is an 85 jet black BMW... its buddies car he wants a best effort only on the outside..there is a few areas that I can get some practice in and improve the car over all with WS....Again thanks
 
I have some 1000, 2000, and I even believe some 2500 or 3000 grit. I just keep progressing up on the grit of paper enough so that I can remove the sanding marks with the Cyclo. I'll admit I am very "amateur" at wet sanding, but the more I do it the better results I get. I can now touch up chips and scratches to the point where I have difficulty telling where they were to begin with.
 
I've not had the courage to use 400 on OEM paint yet. I've used 1000 with some frequency.
I'm a little gunshy on wetsanding. I've never gone through, but the more I think about it, the less I want to got there.
I prefer 3m over Meg's sandpaper. Has anyone used the new 3m dry sanding system?
 
I am very amatuer also when it comes to wet sanding, but when I have done it, I work like polishing, start with the least agressive and work off of that...
 
400 is 400 and should be left to nice thick paint or gelcoat. Unless your prepping the panel for repaint, I'm with Poorboy on this one. I've used 800 before but I think I could have done just as well with 1200 and been safer.

(Did you see that Poorboy? I agreed with you.:wow:)

:passout:
 
I have some 1000, 2000, and I even believe some 2500 or 3000 grit. I just keep progressing up on the grit of paper enough so that I can remove the sanding marks with the Cyclo. I'll admit I am very "amateur" at wet sanding, but the more I do it the better results I get. I can now touch up chips and scratches to the point where I have difficulty telling where they were to begin with.

JAY

Can you post your process on this...I have one that I am happy with but would welcome another point of view

Thanks
 
For me, unless I know fully what's underneath, I will never go below 1000g. Usually 1500, or 2000 removes any orange peal, drips, sags, etc. Most times, on factory paint, it's hard to tell if the imperfections are in the clear or in the base. I feel it's better to be safe than spend money on a re-paint, so if I'm in doubt, I don't. I would never use 400 on a vehicles paint unless it was primer and it was going in the booth for another coat. I have found that a sanding block helps keep an even finish on about 85% of the areas. Also, working in a uniform direction will help in more ways than I'll go into in this post.

As for polishing out the sanding scratches, I don't mess around -- I go with what works for me the first time every time -- I spend the money and go straight to 3M Microfinishing polish (in the can) which works just fine with a foam cutting pad (I prefer Buff & Shine's pads, but use what works for you). Next I follow up with a quick rinse and dry of the vehicle then I proceed with Finness-It II with a yellow (medium) pad. After this step's complete it's a full blown wash -- taking care to remove any tape, product build-up, etc. I then asess the vehicle in the sun, check for swirls, re-do any areas that might need more work, and follow up with a machine glaze with a finishing pad (3M for dark cars). One more rinse & dry and I proceed with a coat of BC-2 with a finishing pad then a final coat of either IHG or wax depending upon how it looks and what the final desired results are. Although I can do all this (on an average vehicle) in a single day (8mhs), I prefer not to -- I'll plan on spending no less than 14 so as to not be rushed.

Hope this helps :)
 
For me, unless I know fully what's underneath, I will never go below 1000g. Usually 1500, or 2000 removes any orange peal, drips, sags, etc. Most times, on factory paint, it's hard to tell if the imperfections are in the clear or in the base. I feel it's better to be safe than spend money on a re-paint, so if I'm in doubt, I don't. I would never use 400 on a vehicles paint unless it was primer and it was going in the booth for another coat. I have found that a sanding block helps keep an even finish on about 85% of the areas. Also, working in a uniform direction will help in more ways than I'll go into in this post.

As for polishing out the sanding scratches, I don't mess around -- I go with what works for me the first time every time -- I spend the money and go straight to 3M Microfinishing polish (in the can) which works just fine with a foam cutting pad (I prefer Buff & Shine's pads, but use what works for you). Next I follow up with a quick rinse and dry of the vehicle then I proceed with Finness-It II with a yellow (medium) pad. After this step's complete it's a full blown wash -- taking care to remove any tape, product build-up, etc. I then asess the vehicle in the sun, check for swirls, re-do any areas that might need more work, and follow up with a machine glaze with a finishing pad (3M for dark cars). One more rinse & dry and I proceed with a coat of BC-2 with a finishing pad then a final coat of either IHG or wax depending upon how it looks and what the final desired results are. Although I can do all this (on an average vehicle) in a single day (8mhs), I prefer not to -- I'll plan on spending no less than 14 so as to not be rushed.

Hope this helps :)

Thanks it helps a lot...sounds like you are big on 3M do you have a good supplier there...its available here but not as readily as other products.

14 is that minutes? maybe you can team up with 5 minute wash guy:lmfao
 
I think he means hours ... wet sanding is not a fast process nor should anyone think it is easy to make it look perfect again... this comes from practice and using the right tools in combination of products
 
I think he means hours ... wet sanding is not a fast process nor should anyone think it is easy to make it look perfect again... this comes from practice and using the right tools in combination of products

Your kidding me really:eek:...I mean with all the fast talk about washing here...I thought he had come up with a real fast wet sanding process:rofl

Its OK Steve I talked to Doc D on the phone this afternoon
 
JAY

Can you post your process on this...I have one that I am happy with but would welcome another point of view

Thanks

Just briefly, I usually spread the process out over several days. What I have been doing is touching up the area and letting the paint "overfill" the chip or scratch. I let it dry for a day or so, then come back at the area with some 1000 grit. Basically, I try to get the touch up to match the original paint level. (Sometimes this might be all I need to do, sometimes I have had to repeat the process.) If it looks like it will work out, I start wetsanding with the higher grit paper until it all looks level and smooth. After wetsanding with the highest grit I have I take the Cyclo and something like SSR 2.5 and work the polish, usually finishing up with a lighter polish. That's pretty much it. The only thing I can say is be patient with it.

Also, if the vehicle has a lot of orange peel, the area will be noticeable as it will be very smooth when compared to the surrounding orange peel. I have helped some friends touch up areas, and I noticed this. They didn't really know what I was talking about until I pointed it out and explained it. Just be forewarned that could be a possible outcome. The only fix I see there would be to wetsand the entire panel or vehicle. Again, I'm an amateur!
 
Just briefly, I usually spread the process out over several days. What I have been doing is touching up the area and letting the paint "overfill" the chip or scratch. I let it dry for a day or so, then come back at the area with some 1000 grit. Basically, I try to get the touch up to match the original paint level. (Sometimes this might be all I need to do, sometimes I have had to repeat the process.) If it looks like it will work out, I start wetsanding with the higher grit paper until it all looks level and smooth. After wetsanding with the highest grit I have I take the Cyclo and something like SSR 2.5 and work the polish, usually finishing up with a lighter polish. That's pretty much it. The only thing I can say is be patient with it.

Also, if the vehicle has a lot of orange peel, the area will be noticeable as it will be very smooth when compared to the surrounding orange peel. I have helped some friends touch up areas, and I noticed this. They didn't really know what I was talking about until I pointed it out and explained it. Just be forewarned that could be a possible outcome. The only fix I see there would be to wetsand the entire panel or vehicle. Again, I'm an amateur!

Jay

Thanks sound about what I am doing...I use my halogens to speed up the dry time, seems like I can get a couple of coats / dabs on the surface in about an hours time...then once I have it over filled I let it set 24 hours to fully cure...then my sanding is the same as yours followed with the rotary and polish
 
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