Wet Sanding - By Hand or Machine?
- Thread starter halffast
- Start date
I just used mine today for the first time, I didn't follow the instructions right to the "T". But it worked.
I need to go back over and fill in my paint chips and let it set, I buffed them out with the langka too early so it took out most of the paint in the chip too (atleast the metal is still covered for now). The only thing I'd say I'm displeased with is the solution smells very chemical like.
I figure it's gotta be easier then the whole toothpick process of like 9 coats to get it up to even or better, just blob it in your chip real well, let it set and then use the langka to losen up the paint that's still on the surface.
I need to go back over and fill in my paint chips and let it set, I buffed them out with the langka too early so it took out most of the paint in the chip too (atleast the metal is still covered for now). The only thing I'd say I'm displeased with is the solution smells very chemical like.
I figure it's gotta be easier then the whole toothpick process of like 9 coats to get it up to even or better, just blob it in your chip real well, let it set and then use the langka to losen up the paint that's still on the surface.
The Lanka solution only eats away at paint that is acrylic.. I believe. I remember having a discussion about harming existing paint on VWVortex.
Worked good for me so far, with a little more patience (It wants you to let the paint set atleast 1.5 hours if not longer) and I was fidgity so I did it after about 10 minutes.
R
Worked good for me so far, with a little more patience (It wants you to let the paint set atleast 1.5 hours if not longer) and I was fidgity so I did it after about 10 minutes.
R
I got some a couple of months ago, and it seems to work pretty good if you follow the instructions. I have only used it on friends cars that aren't as picky as most of us. I am not sure if I would be happy with the results on one of my cars, but I do intend on practicing more on other cars.
imported_Brad1
New member
Not thrilled with it. Wish I had spent the money elsewhere.
imported_Luster
New member
After reading David Fermani's thread on wet-sanding and polishing that near-terminal paint and giving it new life, I decided to pose this question.
Do you think wet sanding by machine yields better results than doing it by hand?
I've always done it by hand, but I'm thinking now, that using a PC is the only way to go!
Your thoughts?
Do you think wet sanding by machine yields better results than doing it by hand?
I've always done it by hand, but I'm thinking now, that using a PC is the only way to go!
Your thoughts?
imported_RaskyR1
New member
Machine is definitely faster! I've never thought to do any kind of comparison, but I think it would be similar to hand polishing vs. machine polishing.
That being said, if I had an old classic car with some pretty straight panels and adequate clear, I'd probably long block it before using a DA.
Curious to see what KB or some other very experienced pros have to say about it though.
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
Old timer here.........sand by hand
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
For tight areas and curves you really don't have a choice, but on flat surfaces, machine sanding can replicate and create much better results, faster. There's no way I would ever try doing 1500>>2000>>2500 by hand anymore. A DA refines the scratches so much better. I know tons of people that use to spend multiple days block sanding their paintwork. They now only use a DA. You guys should check out the super fine grits by Micro-Surface. Imagine using sandpaper that actually polishes and creates gloss.
imported_Stokdgs
New member
Having done both, wet block sanding and using a D/A, I would have to think you would need to do both, because of the areas mentioned, that the flat round, pad wont follow as well and could dig in and take way too much material off.
With either method, at least to finish down repaired/filled/primered surfaces, a light spray of a contrasting color lacquer from a can to serve as a "guide coat" would help you from taking too much off. Once the guidecoat is gone, you move on, unless you feel/see an imperfection that still needs a little more work.
Alot of us or maybe just me - oldtimers - will always feel better using a sanding block with some wet-or-dry paper and a hose with the nozzle cut off so you can keep a slight stream of water on the work.
And believe it or not, we can sand pretty fast this way too.
Anyone remember those long "air boards" ? They were knocking down bondo'd areas around the same time the first air powered D/A's came out.
Look forward to trying out the new ways sometime, would have to find a willing owner with a badly damaged paintjob...
DanF
With either method, at least to finish down repaired/filled/primered surfaces, a light spray of a contrasting color lacquer from a can to serve as a "guide coat" would help you from taking too much off. Once the guidecoat is gone, you move on, unless you feel/see an imperfection that still needs a little more work.
Alot of us or maybe just me - oldtimers - will always feel better using a sanding block with some wet-or-dry paper and a hose with the nozzle cut off so you can keep a slight stream of water on the work.
And believe it or not, we can sand pretty fast this way too.
Anyone remember those long "air boards" ? They were knocking down bondo'd areas around the same time the first air powered D/A's came out.
Look forward to trying out the new ways sometime, would have to find a willing owner with a badly damaged paintjob...
DanF
Not too long ago some people on other forums preach that orbital sanding should only be done with a dedicated air orbital sander. Their reasoning is that the longer orbital range, 5/16", of the electric DA is unsuitable for delicate sanding. A small glimpse of Kevin Brown's paper has suggested that this is not true.
I quote Kevin Brown in one of our private conversations:
"In my experience, hand sanding typically levels paint more accurately than DA sanding, but this has to do with many factors. I have no doubt that a machine could be set up to rival a typical-length hand sanding block."
I have wetsanded about ten panels in the past two months and I can visualize how that can be the case, under certain conditions. Of course, diligence is required when your hand is rivaling a machine.
As David has demonstrated the DA produces a very smooth surface, which a hand is hard to replicate.
I quote Kevin Brown in one of our private conversations:
"In my experience, hand sanding typically levels paint more accurately than DA sanding, but this has to do with many factors. I have no doubt that a machine could be set up to rival a typical-length hand sanding block."
I have wetsanded about ten panels in the past two months and I can visualize how that can be the case, under certain conditions. Of course, diligence is required when your hand is rivaling a machine.
As David has demonstrated the DA produces a very smooth surface, which a hand is hard to replicate.
Junebug
JAFO
A long time ago, I worked after school at a little body shop sanding cars for painting. I would use 220, then 360 and the painters would spray a thick primer and sand again with 400, wipe down with a solvent, tape, and paint. The air tools we had were the "jitterbug" a hand destoying orbital, and a DA - that I couldn't get enough of! This was 1977 and clear coats were what Hef had the centerfolds wear.
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
I do remember Hef's centerfold's wearing those clears.......:biggrin:
Junebug
JAFO
You're showing your age Angelo, but like the late Richard Pryer said, "Respect them old people, ya'll don't get to be old by being a fool"