Wet sand - paint repair

K

Klaatu

New member
I'm in the process of fixing years of neglect on a 1999 Jeep that my 16 year old daughter will be driving. Part of that is to repair several scratches of varying severity. On some, I wet sanded the spot (could only get 600 grit for this), applied touch up paint, applied polish (by hand), and applied wax. It looks much better than it did. However, if you look close enough, you can see where the wet sanding was done. The repair just doesn't blend in well enough with the original paint. Is there any way to remedy this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Use 1200 or 1500-grit paper to blend . . . continuously spray water and closely inspect the surface until evenly sanded (it should appear uniformly dull). If you still see a shiny spot (where the paint is applied), continue sanding until it matches the surrounding smooth surface. Finally, grab your buffer and select a fine compound and foam pad. Polish to a high gloss . . . the surface should be completely defect free :xyxthumbs
 
I sand with much milder stuff, 2.5-3K grit so I can easily remove the sanding marks with something like 3M PI-III RC. When I used coarser paper it was a lot harder to get rid of the marks, but it's a piece of cake with the 3K Unigrit paper from Meguiar's.
 
03k20a2: I had to sand some spots before touch up because they were rusted from neglect.



Knockwurst & Accumulator: Thanks for the input. At the time, I couldn't get my hands on anything finer. In the future, will that make a big difference? What if I use 2k - 3k on the spots I haven't leveled yet? Will I see better results?



Thanks guys!
 
Accumulator said:
I sand with much milder stuff, 2.5-3K grit so I can easily remove the sanding marks with something like 3M PI-III RC. When I used coarser paper it was a lot harder to get rid of the marks, but it's a piece of cake with the 3K Unigrit paper from Meguiar's.
Click to expand...



What he said ^^



I've used 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000. 3000 unigrit works just as fast as 1500 and the marring is infinitely easier to remove. My 1500 marks took 3 passes of SSR3, then a couple passes of SSR2.5 to remove the hazing from SSR3 and remaining marring, then a pass of SSR1 to get it looking right. The 3000 took a single pass of Optimum Compound. Time difference per touch up ~15 minutes, plus a lot less CC removal.
 
Yeah, I feel so strongly about the advantages of 3K Unigrit that I'd hold off on doing the work until some was obtained.



Where you had a little rust, you might consider a drop of some rust converter. I use Rust Avenger, it works well.
 
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