Wax's/ Sealant's Durablity and other junk

[imported_Devilsown]

I've been doing some poking around and cant really get a clear answer.



Thus far I'm convinced that sealants:

more durable

look better on light color paints, IE white/ silver





I'm also convinced that wax's:

less durable but "bead" better

give more depth

look best on dark cars



My question is how can you tell when your wax/ sealant has lost its durability? I tend (or try to) wax/ seal my car(s) paint about once a month 2 at the most. I've seen a lot of people saying that just because its beading don't mean that its protecting your paint, but have never seen a response of "hey this is how you can tell you need to wax or seal your paint!"



I've also noticed that there are a few types a sealants; acrylic and polymers. Whats the difference between the two?



I would ask about the zillion wax's but that would take a while. I hope my #16 gets here soon!



Please correct me and add to this my brain demands info!

 

[MBurnickas]

Don't know that wax beads better then sealant, but beading and friction tests usually tell the story. If you run a dry finger and it squeeks, you are out of protection. Acrylic and Polymers are pretty closely related, most of them crosslink and cure.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I've seen a lot of people saying that just because its beading don't mean that its protecting your paint, but have never seen a response of "hey this is how you can tell you need to wax or seal your paint!"

I don't think anyone's ever said that if "it's still beading, it may not be protecting". They have said the opposite, that "if it's stopped beading, that doesn't mean it isn't still protecting".



Contrary to your assertion, we have had many, many, many discussions here about "how can you tell when your LSP is no longer protecting?" The best generalization is "when the beading has changed from how it was when you first applied it". A lot of people will talk about sealants that bead initially, and then they change to "sheeting" but they are still there protecting. I think that's a bunch of hooey, when they go from beading to sheeting, the protection they originally had has diminished.



Waxes with great beading, and other LSP's with great beading, like Zaino, will start out with very round, high, small beads, which will get flatter, bigger, and less round as the LSP "wears out". LSP's which tend to not be great beaders...well, they are a little tougher to tell. Some people go by "slickness", which is the subjective feel of the surface. I think you need a little of both to make your judgement (feel and beading).

 

[Dan]

I don't think anyone's ever said that if "it's still beading, it may not be protecting". They have said the opposite, that "if it's stopped beading, that doesn't mean it isn't still protecting".

I do say that... I have seen sealants still beading while getting no protection from bird bombs and water spotting. A perfectly polished surface (and wiped with IPA) will bead water. With a real wax, I think you can assume it is still protecting, I don't think the same is true with some sealants.

 

[Accumulator]

Setec Astronomy- As I've probably mentioned before, I've done some experiments on quick-to-oxidize ss paint that did indeed indicate that sealants continue to protect after they quit beading. BUT...I *like* beading so I usually redo them before the beading drops off much. And yeah, it's not like a change-from-beading indicates anything *good*!



Devilsown- IMO an LSP needs redone whenever some characteristic you value changes for the worse. Whatever that characteristic is *for you*, and whatever change you deem significant is your business

 

[Bunky]

....IMO an LSP needs redone whenever some characteristic you value changes for the worse. Whatever that characteristic is *for you*, and whatever change you deem significant is your business

This is why some some "once a year car polish" users believes it lasts a year. It does by their criteria although some will claim they are misinformed.



I recall seeing someone post a pic of a car with some beading (not tight beads but the larger imore irregular shapes) and was bragging after about it after 5 months or so. Another posted a comment that the LSP was shot.

 

[Accumulator]

..I recall seeing someone post a pic of a car with some beading (not tight beads but the larger imore irregular shapes) and was bragging after about it after 5 months or so. Another posted a comment that the LSP was shot.

Yeah, on at least one such thread *I* was the guy who said it looked like it needed redone. There's "yeah, I guess it's still beading" and then there's "tiny spherical beads that barely contact the paint type beading". Big difference.

 

[longdx]

My DD is single stage paint. My rule of thumb is when I can see it start to oxidize, then it is time for a light polish and new LSP. For my clearcoat truck, it is usually when the beading has become irregular and slickness is lost. Granted, I'm a hack and not a professional, but to my rather untrained eye these are the markers for me to reapply LSP.