Waxing VS Sealent

My problem with coatings (which I do use on wheels) is related to spot-correction, and my worries that whatever I use won`t be sufficiently Accumulator-proof, leading to the discovery of high-spots/etc. later. If I were rewaxing every few months that`d be one thing, but my FK1000P seems to last almost as long as some coatings (while admittedly not offering all the same features).

Never Enuff- That does sound like a sensible approach and 845 seems to work fine over top of most anything (as does 476S). When I gave my niece-in-law the Volvo wagon, I included a bottle of 845 and it was easy for that non-autopian to keep the car nicely waxed.

The 845 has enough solvents in it to do a little bit of cleaning too...yeah yeah, I know...!Autopian Heresy!, one of those big no-nos, but hey..
 
I`m proud to report that I am a quitter, I after long and careful thought I went the way of opti gloss coat. I am in the camp of FK1000P and 845 however last week I did my 2013 F-150 tuxedo black after seven days of curing I washed it today and I must say it gave me wood. Now I will bang out the wife`s 2008 sable it may not be for everybody I will also add if you can use opti-seal you can easily use opti coat. All the work was in my prep especially being black, but once your happy with the paint its cake. Now the only question I keep rolling around in my head should I do a second coat.
 
Keep in mind that just because a product seems to "last" longer doesnt mean its actually protecting your paint.

Many carnauba waxes offer better environment protection against things like bird poop, sap etc than a sealant.
Just because your sealant makes pretty beads when it gets wet doesn`t mean that it is necessarily doing a good job of protecting your paint.

I use both B) (sometimes together, sometimes separately)
Find the right one that suits your needs.
 
VHONDAV6 said:
Thanks for the help guys... I`m a little more confused then when I started but I do understand that Sealent will provide better protection and will last longer, so I`ll be sure to grab some. Do you think chemical guys would be ok?
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Just throwing in my two cents - I don`t use ANY Chemical Guys stuff. They turned me off when they came out w 19 different kinds of soap.

Having said that, If you want to go the sealant route I would suggest one of these:

Blackfire Wet Diamond, All Finish Paint Protection

Jescar Power Lock Polymer Paint Sealant 16 oz.

You need a very thin coat. Don`t over apply or it will just be more difficult to remove.

If you`re basically looking to buy only one product for paint protection - you can`t go wrong w this.

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax No. 845
 
Accumulator said:
My problem with coatings (which I do use on wheels) is related to spot-correction, and my worries that whatever I use won`t be sufficiently Accumulator-proof, leading to the discovery of high-spots/etc. later.
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But that`s the part that builds character; apply coating in the garage, finish after dark thinking you`re a HERO! Pull car out in sun the next day, find it looking like a spotted leopard, realize that you are (in fact) a ZERO!

Quiet contemplation...
 
VHONDAV6- Heh heh, it`s easy for this stuff to get out of hand...at least if you take this whole Autopian thing to heart.

Actually, IMO it *can* be quite easy. I hardly spend any time/money/effort on detailing these days, at least not compared to what I used to put into it.

Prep it, LSP it with something durable, wash it and keep the interior clean, redo the LSP as needed.
 
Love my truck. I have a work car, so driving is limited to around town and short family trips. That said, it`s pretty mint for 2 years of ownership. I`ve waxed and hand washed nearly 99% of the time.

I`m wondering if I should use another "sealant" like Jet Seal (Chemical guy`s) or just keep on with the Butter Wet Wax (Chemical guy`s) ever few washes and the spray and dry Turtle Wax after each wash. Inputs?

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The CG Jet Seal is probably the worst sealant I have tried as it just doesn`t last very long. CG has some very good advertising and some middling products. Try Opti-Seal or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Liquid Seal. Both are super easy to apply and actually last several months. If you are looking for a more traditional sealant try Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant then top with the CG Butter Wet Wax for a nice shine.
 
aaron1085- Welcome to Autopia!

While I haven`t used the products you mentioned, and can`t recall the last time I found a TW product acceptable, I generally think that if you`re happy with your results you should just keep doing what you`re doing.

But just FWIW, I`d want to use stuff that lasts for months and months, even on a limited-use vehicle. On big vehicles (I have an OBS Tahoe), I hate to redo the LSP (Last Step Product, i.e., "wax"/sealant) more than once/year.

FWIW#2, I`ve used a few sealants that didn`t last any longer than/as long as some waxes.
 
Thanks guys. I did notice the CG Jet Seal didn`t see to last very long. That said, even if my wax wears off, the sealant should still help the vehicle hold a "slick shine" and protect it correct?

I`m always down to try new products (assuming they aren`t crazy money or difficult to put on) so perhaps I`ll try that Wolfgang or Opti-Seal.


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There is also a subtle appearance factor to add to the confusion. Some carnauba`s seem to produce a deeper warm glow as opposed to some sealants which produce a brighter perhaps more reflective result. I believe it is all about how they bend or absorb light. For my tastes, I prefer the warm glow on darker colors and the higher reflectivity on lighter colors.
 
aaron1085 said:
.. even if my wax wears off, the sealant should still help the vehicle hold a "slick shine" and protect it correct?
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That`s the theory. I`ve hardly ever done the "wax topper" thing, so I`m sure others have more useful info than I do, but in my case when the wax died it seemed to simply need redone; the presumably still-extant sealant didn`t keep it "still LSPed".

Eh, IMO (and that`s all this is and it`s worth what you paid for it ;) ) these days it makes more sense to just find one LSP that`s right (whatever that means for *you*) for a given vehicle and use (just) that. There are sealants that look "wax-like"; there are waxes that last so long and protect so well that they might as well be considered "sealants" in the practical/functional sense; and there are coatings that presumbably offer near-miraculous benefits. Unless somebody has a specific reason, or a personal desire, to do the sealant + wax combo I just don`t see the point.
 
Forgive me, what`s LSP mean?

Wolfgang says it`ll last 4-6 months. Would likely make sense considering my truck is mainly a garage queen and babied. That said, I would mind an easy spray wax to have on hand as well. I`ll forgo applying a hand wax over a good sealant and just stick with a quick wax.

Or maybe .. someone could recommend a solid hand wax I could apply that would LAST and then I could simply do touch ups with a quick wax spray. Input??


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aaron1085 said:
Forgive me, what`s LSP mean?
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Sorry, didn`t mean to be inscrutable :o LSP = Last Step Product, i.e., "wax"/"sealant"/etc.

Wolfgang says it`ll last 4-6 months. Would likely make sense considering my truck is mainly a garage queen and babied. That said, I would mind an easy spray wax to have on hand as well. I`ll forgo applying a hand wax over a good sealant and just stick with a quick wax.
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I`d caution you to take any durability claims...any claims at all for that matter...with a grain of salt ;)

I use a Spray Wax (Optimum Car Wax, "OCW") as a Drying Aid on my wife`s car and that`s working quite well. It has an underlying coat of a conventional wax but I have no idea whether that`s a significant factor.

On my vehicles, I find that QD-strength Infinite Use Detail Juiced ("IUDJ", a Rinseless Wash) accomplishes basically the same thing, lasting long enough to be fine until the next wash (these vehicles are LSPed with FK1000P, which would be fine all by itself but the IUDJ does seem to keep things a bit nicer).

Or maybe .. someone could recommend a solid hand wax I could apply that would LAST and then I could simply do touch ups with a quick wax spray. Input??
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FK1000P is what I like, but its look might not please everybody on every paint/color. My drivers all have this for their LSP with the IUDJ being used as a Drying Aid (not used as a genuine Rinseless Wash).
 
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