Wax for crystal white pearl
- Thread starter Greg Ayo
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
Greg Ayo- IMO the 845 oughta look fine on Mazda paint, so maybe it just needs a different (finishing) polish.
tom p.
Active member
Greg, what products do you currently own? What kind of shape is the paint in? When was your last comprehensive polishing session?
Dan
Well-known member
845 is one of my favorites on white for a daily driver, its going to be tough to beat. NXT, Z2, and Optiseal also look great.
Wasatch
New member
A sealant will give it a different look.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Light Reflective Value (LRV)
The average blackest black has a light reflection value (LRV) of approximately 5% and the whitest white is approximately 85%. Some yellows can measure up into the 80's or 90's as well. All colours fit in between these two extremes. A colour with an LRV of 50 will reflect 50% of the light that falls on it, and one with an LRV of 23 will reflect 23% of the light, and so on.
Think of a reflective value as a numerical version of a grey value scale for colours, roughly like this-
Pure White - 100, White -95, Light - 80, Low Light - 65, Medium - 50, High Dark - 35, Dark – 20
Wax-the applications of Carnauba (Pinnacle Souverän™ Paste Wax) that will provide oils to provide a ‘wet-look’ to the surface and will also provide a transparent surface when layered without yellowing or discoloration, with a depth of shine by providing a two-dimensional surface.
Light coloured paint -i.e. Silver, White, etc (the exception is speed yellow) will never obtain jetting (the so called ‘wet-look’) of black or dark colours as they do not exhibit visible depth, light colours tends to reflect light instead of absorbing it and providing a 2-dimentional look.
You can obtain a good gloss provided the paint is good quality and if it’s prepared and detailed correctly; washed, cleaned, polished and a polymer sealant added (Zaino, Klasse AIO and SG, Jeff Werkstatt - Acrylic Jett ) these sealants will provide a flat silvery-white shine, but without ‘depth’ the exception is Zaino Clear Seal, Z-CS).
TOGWT® Autopia Blogs - TOGWT: Detailing and Care of White and Light colored Paint
The average blackest black has a light reflection value (LRV) of approximately 5% and the whitest white is approximately 85%. Some yellows can measure up into the 80's or 90's as well. All colours fit in between these two extremes. A colour with an LRV of 50 will reflect 50% of the light that falls on it, and one with an LRV of 23 will reflect 23% of the light, and so on.
Think of a reflective value as a numerical version of a grey value scale for colours, roughly like this-
Pure White - 100, White -95, Light - 80, Low Light - 65, Medium - 50, High Dark - 35, Dark – 20
Wax-the applications of Carnauba (Pinnacle Souverän™ Paste Wax) that will provide oils to provide a ‘wet-look’ to the surface and will also provide a transparent surface when layered without yellowing or discoloration, with a depth of shine by providing a two-dimensional surface.
Light coloured paint -i.e. Silver, White, etc (the exception is speed yellow) will never obtain jetting (the so called ‘wet-look’) of black or dark colours as they do not exhibit visible depth, light colours tends to reflect light instead of absorbing it and providing a 2-dimentional look.
You can obtain a good gloss provided the paint is good quality and if it’s prepared and detailed correctly; washed, cleaned, polished and a polymer sealant added (Zaino, Klasse AIO and SG, Jeff Werkstatt - Acrylic Jett ) these sealants will provide a flat silvery-white shine, but without ‘depth’ the exception is Zaino Clear Seal, Z-CS).
TOGWT® Autopia Blogs - TOGWT: Detailing and Care of White and Light colored Paint
If shine (as in reflective mirror like shine) is what you are reffering to then a sealant probably (from a theory point of view) can give you that.
Haven't had much luck with OS (still love it due to ease of application). You can always try the FK1000p which has been known to work well on light colours. It has done well on my wheat beige VW.
Let us know how you do and put a pic or 2 from the result.
Haven't had much luck with OS (still love it due to ease of application). You can always try the FK1000p which has been known to work well on light colours. It has done well on my wheat beige VW.
Let us know how you do and put a pic or 2 from the result.
tom p.
Active member
Greg Ayo said:
My (our) best recommendation will be to clean/polish and do two layers of the FK 1000p and assess the result. You shall be in for a very pleasant surprise.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Greg Ayo- OK, after that Menzerna you should be all set.
Good call on the FK1000P, it's basically replaced Collinite for me and it does have a different look. I'm kinda confident that you'll like it better :xyxthumbs
Use it *instead* of the Collinite,not before/after. Think of the FK as a "paste sealant" as in, don't mix with waxes. You don't want to top it lest you lose its signature look.
Resist the temptation to layer FK1000P more than 2X in any single session, but adding more after a couple of washes is a great way to stay ahead of the curve. Same ol' same ol'...thin thin thin.
Good call on the FK1000P, it's basically replaced Collinite for me and it does have a different look. I'm kinda confident that you'll like it better :xyxthumbs
Use it *instead* of the Collinite,not before/after. Think of the FK as a "paste sealant" as in, don't mix with waxes. You don't want to top it lest you lose its signature look.
Resist the temptation to layer FK1000P more than 2X in any single session, but adding more after a couple of washes is a great way to stay ahead of the curve. Same ol' same ol'...thin thin thin.
SON1C
New member
could possibly interest you
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...ba-waxes-light-fantastic-soft-wax-review.html
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...ba-waxes-light-fantastic-soft-wax-review.html
Junebug
JAFO
Autoglym HD, BFWD or Dodo Hard Candy - either one will make white look great. It's hard to beat the ease of use of BFWD though.
shortspark
New member
I just posted this at another thread but it may be applicable here as well:
I don't know about other colors but I have experimented with Duragloss and other products on my last two vehicles, which were a billet silver Honda Ridgeline truck and now a MB ML350 in Diamond White. Although I like to try other products from time to time, here is what I finally found to give me the easiest and best protection, along with the look I wanted and at the best price:
Wash with CG "Clear" car wash at the wax stripping ratio of 2oz shampoo to a gallon of water.
Clay with Griot's mild clay using Griot's Speed Shine lube.
Wash again.
Polish using P21S Paintwork Cleanser or Duragloss 105 - both did a good job using Griot's 6" polisher.
One coat of Duragloss 601/111 combo using the electric polisher and finishing pad. Mix one part 601 to four parts 111.
The next day put on two coats of Collinite 845 Insulator Wax (by hand).
I have left the 601/111 on without using the 845 (when I do I use two coats of 601/111) and frankly, there is not much difference in looks or durability but there is a slightly more glossy and rich look to these very light colors using the 845 on top. I've also used Griot's Premium Wax over the Duragloss and it deepens the color even more but only slightly more. I like this look but the problem is I must reapply the Griot wax more frequently. As far as the Duragloss 105 goes I believe it is a pretty good AIO type product (about as good as Klasse) but I think as a pure polish the P21S is better to get the paint in shape for the LSP.
After every other or every third non-stripping wash (by that I mean my weekly maintenance wash) with either Duragloss 902 or Meguire's Gold Class Wash and Conditioner shampoos (both are excellent and cheap), a "topper" spray of Duragloss AquaWax does a great job if 111 or any other sealant is your LSP. If wax is your LSP, I prefer either Griot's spray wax or OCW as my "toppers". The spray waxes naturally seem to help make the richer look of the wax LSP come out better, as one would expect from similar and compatible carnauba based products. Conversely, the AquaWax (which is actually polymer based and not a wax) enhances the "candied" look of a sealant LSP. AquaWax is an absolutely superb product not only as a "topper" but also as a drying aid after your car wash.
If anyone has a white or light silver car I believe that following the procedure I've outlined above along with the products I described, will give you good protection and looks without a whole lot of work - or breaking the bank.
I don't know about other colors but I have experimented with Duragloss and other products on my last two vehicles, which were a billet silver Honda Ridgeline truck and now a MB ML350 in Diamond White. Although I like to try other products from time to time, here is what I finally found to give me the easiest and best protection, along with the look I wanted and at the best price:
Wash with CG "Clear" car wash at the wax stripping ratio of 2oz shampoo to a gallon of water.
Clay with Griot's mild clay using Griot's Speed Shine lube.
Wash again.
Polish using P21S Paintwork Cleanser or Duragloss 105 - both did a good job using Griot's 6" polisher.
One coat of Duragloss 601/111 combo using the electric polisher and finishing pad. Mix one part 601 to four parts 111.
The next day put on two coats of Collinite 845 Insulator Wax (by hand).
I have left the 601/111 on without using the 845 (when I do I use two coats of 601/111) and frankly, there is not much difference in looks or durability but there is a slightly more glossy and rich look to these very light colors using the 845 on top. I've also used Griot's Premium Wax over the Duragloss and it deepens the color even more but only slightly more. I like this look but the problem is I must reapply the Griot wax more frequently. As far as the Duragloss 105 goes I believe it is a pretty good AIO type product (about as good as Klasse) but I think as a pure polish the P21S is better to get the paint in shape for the LSP.
After every other or every third non-stripping wash (by that I mean my weekly maintenance wash) with either Duragloss 902 or Meguire's Gold Class Wash and Conditioner shampoos (both are excellent and cheap), a "topper" spray of Duragloss AquaWax does a great job if 111 or any other sealant is your LSP. If wax is your LSP, I prefer either Griot's spray wax or OCW as my "toppers". The spray waxes naturally seem to help make the richer look of the wax LSP come out better, as one would expect from similar and compatible carnauba based products. Conversely, the AquaWax (which is actually polymer based and not a wax) enhances the "candied" look of a sealant LSP. AquaWax is an absolutely superb product not only as a "topper" but also as a drying aid after your car wash.
If anyone has a white or light silver car I believe that following the procedure I've outlined above along with the products I described, will give you good protection and looks without a whole lot of work - or breaking the bank.
Mother's FX looks nice on white. Plus, it's inexpensive and available OTC. Durability is decent/average. FX Spray Wax is a nice product, as well (basically, a booster wax).
Turtle Wax ICE Synthetic Spray Wax gives a real nice shine on white..surprising durability and slickness, too. I bought it cheap ($2.99!!) at a closeout type place and was surprised at how well it worked. I wish they had more. I've also used it on my dad's black car and it looks good on black, too.
Turtle Wax ICE Synthetic Spray Wax gives a real nice shine on white..surprising durability and slickness, too. I bought it cheap ($2.99!!) at a closeout type place and was surprised at how well it worked. I wish they had more. I've also used it on my dad's black car and it looks good on black, too.