Wavy paint?. Need advice..

Mantic6t9 said:
So you guys think i should start with a SMR first? The damage doesn't look as bad as that black ford posted above.
Click to expand...



Glad to hear your problem isn't as severe as I thought. I've seen ( hey, I *HAVE*) waves-unevenly cut paint type waves- from a rotary that WILL NOT come out with a PC no matter what's on the (wool) pad. At least not after just a few hours of work.



*IMO* SMR isn't gonna be strong enough for what you're doing. Nothing wrong with considering the CMA advice, but MANY of us have had good results with 3M PI-III MG (pn 05937). It's a good, all purpose polish that isn't too mild OR too aggressive.



I'm currently using something else though, the EinsZett ("1Z") line of polishes. VERY, VERY impressive (easy to use, great results). Available through the Autopia store, too. I've been recommending getting all three polishes and I'm pretty sure no one will be disappointed with them.



FWIW, GeekySteve was also very impressed with them, and he's used a LOT of different products.
 
Accumulator, you bring up a good point. The hazing and swirls left over from compounding with a rotary (which is the true industry definition of a swirl-mark) can range from mild, which is normal and almost inevitable, to severe...caused from poor skill or technique. If mild, then a PC would work...but if severe, then a PC would probably not work.



BTW, I fully agree with you regarding the Einszett polishes. They are starting to replace 3M as my favorite products for paint prep. Very easy to use and seem to break down very well...even when applied by hand.
 
Would i be able to find the PI-III locally like pepboys or something. If i can't find it what else is similar that can be locally bought?



After the PI-III should i follow up with something like #9 then go to my SEC and s100 wax? Or would the #9 be a waste of time?
 
Guys,



Has anyone tried Menzerna?? I'm raving Menzerna since spending so many hours on black. With other compound/polish type products I find that even when I'm done direct sunlight shows some spiderweb type looking surface scratches.



Has anyone found a better product?
 
Mantic6t9 said:
Would i be able to find the PI-III locally like pepboys or something. If i can't find it what else is similar that can be locally bought?



After the PI-III should i follow up with something like #9 then go to my SEC and s100 wax? Or would the #9 be a waste of time?
Click to expand...



You can probably find the PI-III at an autopaint/body supply place. Look in the yellow pages, there'll probably be one close by. Not sure about similar alternatives, sorry.



You MIGHT see an improvement using the #9 and S#C, some do some don't. *I* would try it (say, on just the hood) and see if you notice an improvement. *I THINK* the SEC might be a good idea, if only to remove any PI-III residue.
 
I've always applied SEC by hand had anyone tried it with the PC? To me is doesn't seem like there would be much of a difference.
 
Mantic6t9 said:
I've always applied SEC by hand had anyone tried it with the PC? To me is doesn't seem like there would be much of a difference.
Click to expand...



A few of us have done it. Not a HUGE difference, but remembering the "fast hand" analogy, the PC can cover the same ground more frequently (or more ground in the same time) than you're likely to by hand. IMO, for a final "burnishing" of the surface, where you're doing it VERY lightly, it's probably better to do it by PC. But then I usually vote for doing things by machine!



*IF* I decide to use GEPC as a final polishing step on the S8 (still undecided) I definitely gonna do it by PC.
 
Ok just so i have it right how does this sound.



3M PIII-MG

s100 SEC

s100 carnuba



What pad should i start the 3M PIII-MG on? Should i start on a cutting pad and move to a polishing pad or start the 3M PIII-MG on a yellow pad move to a SMR on a white pad and then got to the SEC and wax?



Where can i buy 3M PIII-MG and do you think the 1z would be better bet?
 
This is the PI-III I had success with when I was stuck in the same situation.



http://www.properautocare.com/3mperfincutc.html



My steps:



PI-III FC with yellow pad

Klasse AIO with white

Klasse SG with white (x2)

S100 by hand



She's perfect and swirl free after that. People thought I had my car repainted.



Unfortunalty by digital camera is terrible, so I don't have any pics...
 
blackntan- The product you referred (39002) to is a PI-II (NOT PI-III) product. Yes, it works well, but *I* like to follow it up with the PI-III MG (pn 05937). Gives a SLIGHTLY better finish for me. I've started using the PI-III RC (05933) and IT (the 05933) seems a little milder.



Mantic6t9- There IS a lot of overlap between the various PI-III products. *I* use the 39002 or 05933 with a cutting pad, then the 05937 MG with a cutting pad, THEN the 05937 with a polishing pad. Whether or not you need to use aggressive measures (the 39002 or 05933, cutting pads, etc.) will depend on your situation.



The 1Z polishes work better for me, though I might change my mind next time for all I know :p



1Z Ultra: pretty strong, it will REMOVE swirls/minor scratches from (hard) Audi clear, but it DOES leave its own marring. MUST be followed with a milder product. I use it with a cutting pad.



1Z Paint Polish (green): about like the 3M PI-III MG (05937), but easier to remove. Stays "wet" longer (maybe from lots of oils) than most polishes, even when worked at higher speeds. Leaves a good finish, probably good enough to go straight to wax. Use with either cutting or polishing pads, but always FINISH with a polishing pad.



1Z Metallic Polish (red): VERY mild. Won't remove much if any marring. More of a "final buff" product to give a higher gloss after already getting the finish virtually "good enough". Use with a polishing pad (some might even experiment with a finishing pad, this stuff is THAT mild). *I* see no need to follow with GEPC on silver, but someone oughta try it on a color where it might make a difference (red, black, etc.).



*I* currently recommend the 1Z polishes over the 3M MG, but you won't go wrong with either and the MG will have fewer residual oils (important if you're using Zaino, no problem, in my experience, if using Klasse, BFII, PUPP, or carnaubas)



The 3M PI-III MG is available from

LINK



1Z is available from the Autopia store.
 
Ok it look like i'm going to try the 1z polish. Will the 1Z paint polish leave any marring of it's own? I plan on appling the SEC with my PC and a polishing pad after the 1z paint polish. I know SEC isn't very abrasive if at all so i may need a SMR after the 1z paint polish.



My paint is red and very reflective it just has some buffer damage that needs to be taken care of. Once i apply SEC and s100 most of the swirls are hidden. But you can't hid buffer jiggle lines.



So here it is unless you think i need to add a SMR after the 1z paint polish. I'm thinking about buying some #9 just to try out is there a better SMR you would recomend?



1z paint polish

s100 SEC

s100 carnuba
 
aaahh.. So it is.. PI-II.. Sorry bout that.



Regardless, What I meant was that I had to step up to a more aggressive product than SMR or it's equal. The Fine Cut worked and got everything out.



I haven't tried the 1Z stuff, so I don't know how it compares.
 
Mantic6t9- I honestly don't know if the 1Z green will leave any micro-marring on *YOUR* finish. *I* think it's pretty mild, but the 1Z red (and of course your SEC) are quite a bit milder. You might oughta buy the 1Z red too. It seems to contain some kind of wax/glaze, but nothing that caused any bonding problems for *ME*. It is VERY mild, similar to the SEC, but of a different nature.



MY RX for you: 1Z green w/polishing pad; 1Z red w/polishing pad; MAYBE 1Z red w/finishing pad; S100 wax.



IF you substitute the SEC for the 1Z red you will PROBABLY be OK too. And remember, this is all just my $0.02. It's been quite a while since I've worked on red. Sorry about all the qualifiers/disclaimers, but, well, you know...



OH, and the Autopia Fall03 discount expires VERY soon, so better order up!
 
I recieved my pads from topoftheline.com yesterday and got my PC today. Now i'm just waiting on the 1z paint polish. Can someone give me an idea of the abrasive differenct between DACP and the 1z paint polish? I'm wondering if i should pick up a bottle of this as well. I have a 93 civic with some light oxidation on the roof and am wondering if the 1z polish will be able to take care of that.



Also when i apply the 1z paint polish should i work it untill it starts to dust and then buff off?



The PC from coastaltool.com comes with one 5in white polishing pad, a 6in counter weight, and 6in hook and loop backing plate.
 
Mantic6t9 said:
..give me an idea of the abrasive differenct between DACP and the 1z paint polish? I'm wondering if i should pick up a bottle of this as well. I have a 93 civic with some light oxidation on the roof and am wondering if the 1z polish will be able to take care of that.



Also when i apply the 1z paint polish should i work it untill it starts to dust and then buff off?



The PC from coastaltool.com comes with one 5in white polishing pad, a 6in counter weight, and 6in hook and loop backing plate.
Click to expand...



If you have significant problems (like your oxidized Civic sounds to me), the yeah, get the DACP. Work it a LONG time so it breaks down. It'll be more aggressive than the 1Z PP. OR, get some kind of RC (like 3M's 05933 or 39002). The PP just isn't all that aggressive, IMO. Heh heh, here's where I oughta rib you about buying all three 1Z polishes at the same time ;)



Work the PP until you're tired of working it ;) . It's NOT a "work it for a REALLY LONG time" product like the DACP. It does break down a bit, but you'd be there FOREVER waiting for it to dust, just too many oils. You'll see what I mean when you use it. Especially on your red, once you've done a few areas and wiped them off, you'll know if you're working it long enough (and I suspect it won't be an issue). Start at 4 or so to avoid slinging, then speed up to 5-6 (I do almost ALL my polishing at 6).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top