Water-spot Removal with Ducky?

It seems to work well for fiberglass, but no so well for paint and glass. I haven't personally used it, so take it with a grain of salt.
 
The boat stores I've worked in sold it and it worked as advertised on fiberglass, glass, and painted surfaces. A few of the boat detailers in the area swore by it even for long set stains.
 
For $11 it might be worth picking up a bottle from a local marina or boat supply store to find out if it is any good.
Water spots aren't a problem for me so that's at least one product I won't be trying. :D
 
I know I've outlined this method in previous threads ;)

It works... for quite a bit less you can get the same results using Lime Away -- here is the method that works for me on Glass, Paint, textured Plastic & stainless trim.

Starting with a clean surface...

1. Fill a bucket with water, add two towels to the bucket.
2. Put on some rubber gloves.
3. Wet another towel* then saturate with the product.
4. Wipe the product saturated towel on the surface to be de-spotted using adequte pressure -- work in a 2'x2' area -- keep the product moving
5. DO NOT LET THE PRODUCT DRY, DO NOT USE ON ALUMINUM
6. Immediately rinse/ wipe the area with the wet towels from the bucket using plenty of water to nutralize the acid, keep dipping rinse towels in the bucket.
7. Move on to the next section, using the above outlined method.
8. It may take multiple aplications, but most of the time it comes off in one.
9. After completed, wash the vehicle as you normally would following up with a good Polishing, then your choice of Wax/Sealant/Glaze.

*The towel used for applying the product will be trash when you are finished, also I do not know if the synthitics (i.e. microfiber) will hold up to the acid -- I usually use terry towels or cotton diapers for performing this operation; since I know that I'll be polishing when I've finished and throwing the towel in the trash.
 
I know I've outlined this method in previous threads ;)

It works... for quite a bit less you can get the same results using Lime Away -- here is the method that works for me on Glass, Paint, textured Plastic & stainless trim.

Starting with a clean surface...

1. Fill a bucket with water, add two towels to the bucket.
2. Put on some rubber gloves.
3. Wet another towel* then saturate with the product.
4. Wipe the product saturated towel on the surface to be de-spotted using adequte pressure -- work in a 2'x2' area -- keep the product moving
5. DO NOT LET THE PRODUCT DRY, DO NOT USE ON ALUMINUM
6. Immediately rinse/ wipe the area with the wet towels from the bucket using plenty of water to nutralize the acid, keep dipping rinse towels in the bucket.
7. Move on to the next section, using the above outlined method.
8. It may take multiple aplications, but most of the time it comes off in one.
9. After completed, wash the vehicle as you normally would following up with a good Polishing, then your choice of Wax/Sealant/Glaze.

*The towel used for applying the product will be trash when you are finished, also I do not know if the synthitics (i.e. microfiber) will hold up to the acid -- I usually use terry towels or cotton diapers for performing this operation; since I know that I'll be polishing when I've finished and throwing the towel in the trash.

Thanks but am I missing the ratio of lime-away that you are using?
 
Beemerboy said:
Thanks but am I missing the ratio of lime-away that you are using?
Full strength applied to a wet towel, re applying with each section. This is one of those times where letting the chemical do the work is better than brute force (work smarter, not harder).
 
Full strength applied to a wet towel, re applying with each section. This is one of those times where letting the chemical do the work is better than brute force (work smarter, not harder).

OK will give that a try when needed...I don't ruin up on this much but when you do its nice to have in your back pocket....now I'm wondering if CLK would be something that would do the same
 
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