Hi I recently purchased from auto geek their deluxe water softener/sediment filter system.
I washed a few trucks and to my astonishment I let the water sit there and finally dried leaving behind less but still very visible water spots.
Total Filter Kit
So I decided to do some research and BOOM I wasn't the only one that felt that way.
I found this very interesting post from 89gt-stranger:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/getting-started-pro-auto-detailer/113664-water-softener.html
In it had a previous post from superbee364 that gave an alternative to CRSpotless that changed my disappiontment to a very educational experience:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...sion/105566-cheap-replacement-crspotless.html
This is were it gets interesting, he found out that using 2 mixed bed de ionizing resin filters in a setup got rid of his water spots (I owe you allot man)
So I did more research to see if I could still use my setup and just replace the current resin in the filter with the same resin in filter that he mentioned in the post to be more cost effective.
I looked and looked and started noticing they were calling it DI Filter Resin a part of the
reverse omosis stage for Coral reefs.
Some was different colored
So I did more research and finally got to the strings of how the De ionizing process works and why they were different colored:
Rinsepure
Deionization (demineralization)- a process that removes contaminants from water.
Ion Exchange- process of removing ions from water using charged resins. Does not remove particles or bacteria
Mixed bed ion exchange- when cation and anion resins are in the same vessel. The cation resin comprising of 40% and the anion resin of 60%.
Cation- positively charged ions High Alkaline
Anion- negatively charged ions Highly Acidic
Separate bed ion exchange- when cation and anion resins are each contained in two separate vessels, or beds.
The cation vessel is always placed first before the anion vessel.
I Found out why the filter system that I had purchased from autogeek did not work as advertised:
In order for the dionization process to work I must remove the sidement 5 microns or larger particles such as dirt and other matter.
After the sediment removed I must begin the de ionization process but found that the mixed bed resin was 15.00 a refill!!!
so I began to think about the resin filter in my current setup,
the filter requires soduim to work making it a Cation filter attracting only postively charged ions!!!
So I had a cation filter only, but what about all those negatively charged anions???? Duh, they were on the paint of the trucks that dried and still had water spots.
So I Needed another filter setup for strickly anion resin.
I found it on ebay and didn't think twice to purchase it.
So now that it left the cars spotless what was I going to do when it was time for a filter change???
The deluxe kit resin filter calls for salt tablets left overnight to revive the resin:
So if I could recharge the cation filter why couldn't I recharge the anion filter?
Oh but I could I found a very interesting post on another forum that explained how to revive the filters countless times since the owner dngspot,
got tired of replacing up to 10lbs of mixed resin a year (close to $200.00) for his coral reef filtering system
Reef Central Online Community - How to recharge DI resin
He gave a very detailed explaination of how to revive the anions with Muriatic Acid purchased at Lowes.
So with $30.00 in the acid, lye, and 2 glass containers I pour the cation filter resin in 1 container filled with soduim hydroxide (lye)
and the other container with the anion and Muriatic Acid.
Resulting in peace of mind and resuable filters.
Thanks for Looking
I washed a few trucks and to my astonishment I let the water sit there and finally dried leaving behind less but still very visible water spots.
Total Filter Kit
So I decided to do some research and BOOM I wasn't the only one that felt that way.
I found this very interesting post from 89gt-stranger:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/getting-started-pro-auto-detailer/113664-water-softener.html
In it had a previous post from superbee364 that gave an alternative to CRSpotless that changed my disappiontment to a very educational experience:
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-de...sion/105566-cheap-replacement-crspotless.html
This is were it gets interesting, he found out that using 2 mixed bed de ionizing resin filters in a setup got rid of his water spots (I owe you allot man)
So I did more research to see if I could still use my setup and just replace the current resin in the filter with the same resin in filter that he mentioned in the post to be more cost effective.
I looked and looked and started noticing they were calling it DI Filter Resin a part of the
reverse omosis stage for Coral reefs.

Some was different colored
So I did more research and finally got to the strings of how the De ionizing process works and why they were different colored:
Rinsepure
Deionization (demineralization)- a process that removes contaminants from water.
Ion Exchange- process of removing ions from water using charged resins. Does not remove particles or bacteria
Mixed bed ion exchange- when cation and anion resins are in the same vessel. The cation resin comprising of 40% and the anion resin of 60%.
Cation- positively charged ions High Alkaline
Anion- negatively charged ions Highly Acidic
Separate bed ion exchange- when cation and anion resins are each contained in two separate vessels, or beds.
The cation vessel is always placed first before the anion vessel.

I Found out why the filter system that I had purchased from autogeek did not work as advertised:
In order for the dionization process to work I must remove the sidement 5 microns or larger particles such as dirt and other matter.
After the sediment removed I must begin the de ionization process but found that the mixed bed resin was 15.00 a refill!!!

so I began to think about the resin filter in my current setup,
the filter requires soduim to work making it a Cation filter attracting only postively charged ions!!!
So I had a cation filter only, but what about all those negatively charged anions???? Duh, they were on the paint of the trucks that dried and still had water spots.
So I Needed another filter setup for strickly anion resin.
I found it on ebay and didn't think twice to purchase it.

So now that it left the cars spotless what was I going to do when it was time for a filter change???
The deluxe kit resin filter calls for salt tablets left overnight to revive the resin:
So if I could recharge the cation filter why couldn't I recharge the anion filter?
Oh but I could I found a very interesting post on another forum that explained how to revive the filters countless times since the owner dngspot,
got tired of replacing up to 10lbs of mixed resin a year (close to $200.00) for his coral reef filtering system
Reef Central Online Community - How to recharge DI resin
He gave a very detailed explaination of how to revive the anions with Muriatic Acid purchased at Lowes.
So with $30.00 in the acid, lye, and 2 glass containers I pour the cation filter resin in 1 container filled with soduim hydroxide (lye)
and the other container with the anion and Muriatic Acid.
Resulting in peace of mind and resuable filters.
Thanks for Looking