Water Pump

ShakingHorizons

ShakingHorizons

New member
When I detail a car, I only use Reverse Osmosis/Deionized (RO/DI) water, as I have horrible water at my house. I keep 35 gallons of water on hand in Brute container for washing vehicles. Because of my background in saltwater aquariums, I first thought to use a pump rated with a high Gallon Per Hour (GPH) - so I purchased a submersible pump rated at 6,600 GPH at 0' head. Well, not thinking that I use a 50' hose, when the pump arrived the pressure on the outlet side was very minimal.

So, now I am stuck with finding a pump (I would prefer submersible so that I don't have to cut my brute container), that can give me ample pressure to wash a car. I don't have a pressure washer, so I need to find a pump that is at the same pressure as a facet (~60psi at my house). I currently have about $200 in to the pump and will be returning it on Monday, so I would prefer to stay in that price range.


Comments or thoughts?

Thanks!
 
I don't know about adding pumps and whatnot, but that seems like a headache IMHO. Just get a CR Spotless with quick disconnects. DI water on demand at decent hose pressure. Of course, you only want to use the DI water for the final rinse.
 
Swanicyouth said:
I don't know about adding pumps and whatnot, but that seems like a headache IMHO. Just get a CR Spotless with quick disconnects. DI water on demand at decent hose pressure. Of course, you only want to use the DI water for the final rinse.
Click to expand...

You talk about a headache and then mention the CR Spotless DI system in the same sentence. IMO, they are junk - I have been through a couple of them and saw no difference between the CR Spotless and my tap water (both leave horrible spotting).
 
ShakingHorizons said:
You talk about a headache and then mention the CR Spotless DI system in the same sentence. IMO, they are junk - I have been through a couple of them and saw no difference between the CR Spotless and my tap water (both leave horrible spotting).
Click to expand...

Something is wrong here. The water out of the CR is TDS zero. That means there is zero minerals in it (maybe some phosphates), but that is it. Water without minerals can't leave spots. I've been using the same unit for a few years now with no issues.

I'm guessing you know you have to keep the car wet and use the DI water for the final rinse? If there are spots on the car from the washing process, no amount of DI water after will remedy that. Mineral free water is mineral free water. Something must be awry with your process.

I dunno. I always wonder about experiences like this.
 
Swanicyouth said:
Something is wrong here. The water out of the CR is TDS zero. That means there is zero minerals in it (maybe some phosphates), but that is it. Water without minerals can't leave spots. I've been using the same unit for a few years now with no issues.

I'm guessing you know you have to keep the car wet and use the DI water for the final rinse? If there are spots on the car from the washing process, no amount of DI water after will remedy that. Mineral free water is mineral free water. Something must be awry with your process.

I dunno. I always wonder about experiences like this.
Click to expand...


I know exactly what a DI system should do (My incoming TDS is 460 and 0 TDS before it even reaches the RO stage), and this product has never done that for me. I only use Spectrapure filters in my RO/DI (.35 Micron Sediment/.5 Carbon filters) and there is an OBVIOUS difference between the two units. I also had my CR leak horribly every time I would attempt to use it.
 
Never got into water quality, but how do you check your TDS?
Did you order a tester or do they sell these somewhere. In a local store.

If I were to get a filter.. Do you just connect it to the house on rinsing the vehicle?
 
ShawnF350 said:
Never got into water quality, but how do you check your TDS?
Did you order a tester or do they sell these somewhere. In a local store.

If I were to get a filter.. Do you just connect it to the house on rinsing the vehicle?
Click to expand...


I use a separate Milwaukee TDS meter. They sell them in hydroponic and fish stores mostly from what I have seen.
If you pick up a CR Spotless unit (which I strongly urge you not to), you just connect it to the house faucet.
 
Shaking horizons approach is actually cheaper than using a cr spotless. My spectrapure has an input of 460 tds and a 004 tds output BEFORE I run through the di filters. With really hard water a cr will need new resin quite often I did not want the haste of regenerating di resin once a month or more, but I do have to plan ahead to fill my water tank when I need it. I run mine into an electric pressure washer, and yes I put in a bango bulkhead tank fitting which is hell for stout.
 
imstew said:
Shaking horizons approach is actually cheaper than using a cr spotless. My spectrapure has an input of 460 tds and a 004 tds output BEFORE I run through the di filters. With really hard water a cr will need new resin quite often I did not want the haste of regenerating di resin once a month or more, but I do have to plan ahead to fill my water tank when I need it. I run mine into an electric pressure washer, and yes I put in a bango bulkhead tank fitting which is hell for stout.
Click to expand...


The more I think about it, the more I think I should set the brute container to gravity feed a pressure washer. There would be no issues supplying even 3gpm to the pressure washer. Does anyone see this not being a feasible option?
 
My tank is 18" higher than my pressure washer and it works fine. If your pressure washer ia the kind that self distructs when run dry you will have to set the wand on the ground with the trigger pressed on the pw off until it's pissing water. That will depend on your pw, some are actually designed to suck water out of a pool.
 
Need to check your manual on your PW. It should say how much pressure it needs to function correctly. I also agree if your RO system is operating correctly there should be no minerals to cause spotting. Possibly the RO filters need replacing.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
Need to check your manual on your PW. It should say how much pressure it needs to function correctly. I also agree if your RO system is operating correctly there should be no minerals to cause spotting. Possibly the RO filters need replacing.
Click to expand...

The CR units I've used have been brand new.
 
my cr works awesome . def u got some hard water 460 - I only got around 130 tds . but still a cr should give u 0 . u just be replacing resin more often .
r u using a pw , or just off the hose with a pump feeding it ?
I use a shurflo pump off a tank feeding a pw

this is all I can think of here - it seems that u would know this but I can't see any other reason why u getting spots off a cr as long as the resin is good
the cr spotless needs to have the exit restricted to no more than 2-2.5 gpm or it just can't filter it properly
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top