Warming vehicle up in cold temps harms engine.

Exactly. And most people would never *believe* the length of perfectly-OK Oil Change Intervals for those 4.6L engines either.

I remember the 1st year those 4.6s came out. The local cop garage was using some type of cheapo oil and filter combo for maintenance. And, after the engines would sit idling for a long time, the filters would swell up like balloons and blow up - spurting out all the oil.

Ford would send us crate engines to replace them under warranty so they could get the old engines back and tear them down. They weren`t too happy when they realized this was happening from some jacked up oil and Dollar Store filter.

I also remember replacing one of those engines and getting a CEL that made no sense. We used to have some technical hotline (pre-Internet) to call a Ford engineer for problems like this..

Dude told me he thought the crate engine "had an incorrect diode" somewhere in the wiring harness - and I would have to swap out the WHOLE engine wiring harness with the old one on that 4.6. And, on top of that - they were only going to pay me LIKE 2 HOURS!

Memories....

And why I don`t fix cars for a living no more..


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Another "expert" that prolly never turned a wrench...Lolz... I`m sure everything in that article could be true, but when was the last time anyone heard of properly maintained modern engine failing due to worn piston rings or cylinder walls???

What internally is more likely to go bad in a modern engine is bearings and / or valve train components. Timing chain guides also frequently go bad - but that is semi-irrelevant here.

I still say it is better to let an ice cold winter engine idle for at least minute or so before taking off. This lets the contracted metal parts expand from a bit of warmth and get closer to their running tolerances before they are under any load. It also lets the oil flow better to do its thing.

The author is also negating a car idling vrs under load warms up a bit faster in the winter due to ice cold air not being blown through the radiator at idle.

But then again, I was just a dumb mechanic - so believe what you will.


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I`ll never forget when my class instructor told me the most common cause for head gasket failure was due to people not letting their engine warm-up properly before they start driving. Rapid expansion between the deck surface and the heads, over time, will ruin a head gasket. I`m sure you already know this.
 
^ Especially iron block with aluminum heads. Different metals expand at different rates.


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swanicyouth- That`s interesting about the failures of the early 4.6L, and that Ford blamed the OIL (that`s one *highly* studied engine family, and the 4.6L basically don`t seem to care what oil gets run in them, despite some folks` insistance that their fave is special). Maybe it was some early-production problem or something...

And that "change the engine harness in 2hrs." gave me a good laugh!
 
Another "expert" that prolly never turned a wrench...Lolz... I`m sure everything in that article could be true, but when was the last time anyone heard of properly maintained modern engine failing due to worn piston rings or cylinder walls???

What internally is more likely to go bad in a modern engine is bearings and / or valve train components. Timing chain guides also frequently go bad - but that is semi-irrelevant here.

I still say it is better to let an ice cold winter engine idle for at least minute or so before taking off. This lets the contracted metal parts expand from a bit of warmth and get closer to their running tolerances before they are under any load. It also lets the oil flow better to do its thing.

The author is also negating a car idling vrs under load warms up a bit faster in the winter due to ice cold air not being blown through the radiator at idle.

But then again, I was just a dumb mechanic - so believe what you will.


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But the point of the thermostat is to keep coolant in the engine and only release it to the radiator when a reasonable temp is attained, so air going through the radiator should not matter for warm up. It should actually heat up faster when driving since you are at higher rpm creating more heat from friction and combustion.
 
But the point of the thermostat is to keep coolant in the engine and only release it to the radiator when a reasonable temp is attained, so air going through the radiator should not matter for warm up. It should actually heat up faster when driving since you are at higher rpm creating more heat from friction and combustion.

I guess... But cold air is still being forced through the radiator and keeping the coolant in that colder, prolly colder (in the radiator / thermostat closed) if you are forcing air through the radiator (driving) in sub zero temps.

I`m in no way trying to say the car will warm up faster at idle compared to under load. I`m just trying to say my guess is that forcing ice cold air through the radiator and over the engine isn`t helping the car warm in sub zero temps, a factor negated somewhat by idling a very cold car for a few mins.
 
Just wow. Yeah noooo. I`ve been building cars since I was able to drive. Anything from a 350 crate to a 2jz and that is probably one of the dumbest things I`ve ever heard of. It`s common sense to let it warm up to help prevent a number of things from happening mostly seals which can be a PITA. The first vehicle I built was a 91 Jeep Wrangler that I dropped a 350 in out of a camaro and with the Holley carb and intake if I didn`t let it idle for a good 30 minutes or hour on a cold day it would cut out every time I tried to give it gas. Same with my 91 240sx ka-t with forged internals and 1000cc injectors. Driving it cold was not an option especially after throwing all the moneys at it. And yeah try driving a rotary when it`s straight cold you`d be spending a lot of money on plugs and seals. The car I have now is a 16 ford st and i still let it idle for a good while before I drive it especially since I don`t want insanely cold oil running through my turbo.. anyone with any kind of mechanical experience would laugh at this.
 
Is it my imagination, or don`t/didn`t they let Indy cars warm up while up on jacks so ALL the fluids & grease can get to temp before a race?
 
Is it my imagination, or don`t/didn`t they let Indy cars warm up while up on jacks so ALL the fluids & grease can get to temp before a race?

Seems like the practical thing to do since they push them so hard from the start


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I wrenched on Outlaw Sprint Cars for over 20 years. Alcohol motors take a lot longer to warm up than a gasoline fueled equivalent. You would never dare to stand on it until water temps were at least 140-160 degrees. On some of those late fall or early spring events, when the nights were still 40-50 degrees, you`d blanket the motor and/or use a torpedo heater. Since we were push-started, the flagman would allow extra warmup laps before tossing the green flag.
Cold oil + high RPM = instant death to a race motor (especially since we run straight 40 or 50 weight oil).

Bill
 
When its as cold as it is now, I let it idle for a minute & then drive it easy. The aluminum block motors seem to take longer to heat up vs the iron blocks ones, as the aluminum dissipates heat pretty fast when its as cold as it is now.
 
On another related cold-weather engine subject is gas mileage, or more correctly gasohol mileage. Alcohol-blended fuels do not have the same BTUs (British Thermal Units) as "pure" gasoline (IE, gas with NO alcohol in them). BTU are the physical measurement of the amount of heat that will be generated from a quantity of fuel when burned or ignited. Anyone who has lit a campfire knows that oak logs will burn (much) hotter than pine logs of the same size. It`s the same principle. Alcohol is also much more temperature-sensitive (temperamental) to colder ambient temperatures than gasoline and its BTU abilities drop off faster than gasoline. So if you notice that your gas mileage seems to be (much) less in cold weather, it`s not your imagination. Idling does not help because you are burning fuel while going nowhere, means zero (0) miles per gallon.
Some drivers switch over non-alcohol gas in cold weather, just for this reason, typically premium-grade gasoline. Will you get better gas mileage?? Depends on the vehicle (truck/SUV versus small car), driving distances, (short commute versus long road trip). and driving style (drag-race starts versus "granny" driving).
You will also have to do the math and check your vehicle`s gas mileage. Premium is usually $0.75 to $1.00 higher in price than low-grade 87 octane blended gasoline. So , for the sake of math simplicity, a gallon of premium fuel at $2.75 per gallon versus a gallon of regular at $2.00 per gallon is 37.5% higher in cost difference (the formula is old-new/old or ($2.00-$2.75)/$2.00 or 0.75/2= .375 or 37.5%). This means that a vehicle that gets 20 MPG in the winter on regular gas would have to get 27.5 MPG on premium to justify the cost difference. Chances are this AIN`T gonna happen. If you get 2 to 3 MPG better, you are doing well. Now, for those who burn E85 (IE; 85% alcohol blend) in their flex fuel vehicles, chances are their fuel mileage is even worse in extreme cold weather. Changing over regular gas (IE 10% alcohol 90% gasoline) may make a larger difference in fuel mileage during cold weather, but again, you would need to do the math to justify the cost increase of regular gas over E85 and check you vehicle`s gas mileage on regular fuel.

As far as starting engines in cold weather, gasoline has a lower volatile temperature than alcohol, meaning gas will turn into fumes at a lower temperature than alcohol, making it easier to ignite (burn) for starting. This factor alone may over-shadow the cost difference and price justification of premium versus regular, especially if your vehicle sits outside in extreme sub-zero F weather and you want it to start easier, like those of you who work a night shift and your vehicle sits outside at work. It`s also the same reason some of us use synthetic oil in engines and do not justify the (much higher) cost of it over conventional oil. You just want the peace-of-mind that your engine is more likely (and easier) to start in extreme cold weather.
 
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