warming up - time for me to try out my gifts

G

goixiz

New member
Ok im new to exterior car, all these years all i do is wash and wax with cheap tools and waxes.



After being here for a month or so i learn somuch but confused. too many options. Can someone correct me if im wrong.



I have a P21s kit and will be getting a PC and have some cloths and stuff but not complete. Let me know what else i need



This is my plan for my nicer car (300zx - well maintained and minimum of swirl marks.) but not sure what wax was on it before.



1. Dawn Wash and scrub tires

2. dry with artificial chamois

3. Clay bar entire car (clay magic using supplied QD)

4. P21s paint cleaner using PC but - not sure setting and type of attachement - need help here !!!!

5. P21s Carnauba using PC (again not sure setting and attachment)

6. Synthetic sealant (not sure pc or hand) and definately not sure which product. If by hand i will probably get a some MF towels to remove .



Does the above sound right ??? Please correct and advice.



Than ks
 
the order is a little bit off. after you wash you should clay before you dry since claying will just get your car wet again. if you use a sealant, put it down before the wax.



as for pads and equipment, waxing with p21s is so easy that you should do it by hand. the pc is best for swirl removal. when i started i went with klasse and carnauba, but after awhile i dumped the sealant since the weather here is good.
 
I assume the synthetic sealant is clearer and more durable than carnauba so being the last layer may give me the protection. I know this is debatable. I prefer the protection over the looks.

So should i still swap the order



and will the GEPC reduce some light swirls or should i use a SMR like 3m.



You mean clay bar the car when wet ???

But it will take too long and water spots may occur
 
Questions:

1. Dawn will strip what's currently on your car. Make sure after your detailing you get a quality car wash for maintenance of your shine.



2. Look into purchasing some MF towels for product residue removal. (which you've already mentioned)



3. claying is good, crooper had a great idea to follow. Just make sure you don't do this in the sun.



4. go here for attachments for your PC CMA



5. Paste wax application with a PC would mean using a butter knife/putty knife to remove it from the jar and then butter it onto your pad. Just do that by hand. Or buy a good liquid wax.



6. If your going the sealant route, put that on before you top with the carnauba wax. The sealant would have bonding issues being applied after the carnauba.
 
Here's the plan(s) I would follow:



This one is for not using a sealant

1. Wash

2. Do not dry

3. Clay

4. Dry now

5. P21S cleaner. Use a foam polishing pad to apply this with your PC.

6. P21S wax by hand



This one is for using a sealant with your P21S wax

1. Dawn wash

2. Do not dry

3. Clay

4. Dry now.

5. You can either omit the P21S cleaner, or use it and then wash again to remove any oils/fillers it may have.

6. Apply sealant (Klasse, Zaino or Blackfire II are all good choices). If using Klasse AIO, it will act as a cleaner and sealant.

7. P21S wax.

You can't apply a sealant after the wax. It will not bond properly to the paint and thus will lack the protection it is supposed to offer.



Good luck and post pics when you're done! :wavey
 
my main objective its not how well it looks but how well it protects the paint and how easy for me to get dirt off and durability of the protection (endurance)



I work for a comany that does a lot of testing of optical devices.



Ill try to see if i can get a setup sometime for a study fo different types of wax or something



I plan to see if i can see how well UV absorbtion and how slick it is.



we have a uv tester

and i have a modified perfolometer for surface (not using a diamond tip) and it also provides friction in very high accuracy.



so maybe if we buy a batch of microscope glides and everyone send me their special formula (applied on strip of glass) and label it with a number so i wont be biased. we can do a blind test
 
You can have BOTH a great looking car and durable protection.



As you have already been told:

1) Wash the car in the shade but do not dry.

2) Save your QD you got with your P21 kit and mix up your own with water and a few drops of car soap in a spray bottle.

3) Spray downthe roof of the car with water and a few squirts from the spray bottle. Clay the roof in back and forth motions and rinse when done. Move on to the hood, fenders, sides and trunk. Spraying and misting as you go along. Make sure you have all the road grime and gunk removed from the lower panels so your clay doesn't contaminated with grit and crud.



4) Dry the car and with your PC and a polishing pad apply the P21 cleansing lotion. One area at a time.

5) I would then take the PC and a finishing pad and go over the car once more with either the P21 cleansing lotion or something like Meguirs #9



6) You can now apply a sealant, like those previously mentioned by others, or you can go right to the P21S wax. If you have a light colored car, like a silver or white, then you may only need the P21 cleansing lotion with the polishing pad and top it with the P21S.



I would recommend a sealant/wax combo because you will get the extra protection of the sealant and the high gloss and depth of a carnuba.



Anthony
 
taxlady thhk for the tip - im drying with blotting using the fake chamois - i dont have MF now (yet). my drive way is fairly steep and my cars really dont have a flat area (really) someday ill get a 911 and that would definately help HEHEHHEHEHE



I was trying to find at dollar tree but no luck

S0 where can i get some at low$ ???????



Whats a good sealant before the p21s ????
 
Ive got a bunch of terry and flannel towels - what do i do with both ? and soon ill get MF

so many towels so little time!
 
I use the MF to dry the cars paint and the terry's to dry and clean jams both door and trunk , wheels and wheels wells. Wroks well for me.



As for sealants I use Blackfire II and love it. But there are others out there and differnt people has different opinions. What I did was ( armed with the color of my car) did a search and saw what people liked on their cars and took note to what colors their cars were. According to my research most people with Black cars had great things to say about blackfire so I went with that. I have no regrets ever since. when I use it all up I will do the same thing and see if there is anything new out there that is creating a buzzzz.

Good luck and I hope this has helped some
 
goixiz,



You can get some MF's towels at WalMart right now 5 for about 5 bucks.



The quality seems to be pretty good but they are not the larger size that I prefer. I bought two packs yesterday and will use them for either windows (if they don't leave "fiber" lint) or drying.



Anthony
 
Before you give up on your cotton towels, see if they are 100% cotton. You can burn 8 or more threads twisted together (or a cut square of the fabric). Be careful to have a plate or some aluminium foil to catch the burning bits. Hold the threads with a tweezer or pliers and light them. Burning cotton smells a lot like burning paper (so does linen and hemp fabric). The residue should be all ash, no hard melted balls of synthetic fibre.



If the towels are 100% cotton and soft and plush, then you can use them for drying your car. If not, use dengsxr's suggestion and use them for door jams (tires, the engine compartment, etc.)



My main complaint about 100 cotton towels for drying is lint. But I reread The PERFECT Drying technique and noticed that someone blots with the cotton and then gently wipes with an MF. I'll have to give that one a try.



BTW, I use the California Water Blade. I feel the length of the blade for grit before every wipe.
 
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