Ultrafina vs. Menz PO85RD (Again)

SuperBee364 said:
...The only thing I don't like about Ultrafina is it does have a tendency to sling once the pad is loaded. Even brushing the pad between applications doesn't help alot. I tried reducing the amount of polish to the point that it wouldn't sling, but then I simply wasn't using enough polish to get the job done..
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I hesitate to post on this (sorta over-my-head topic) thread, let alone with a suggestion this obvious :o but...



How about wiping the pad with a towel (instead of brushing it) in between sections/passes to remove the excess product/oils? Noting that it's an apples/oranges comparison, I recently polished the whole the A8 with *one* set of cyclo pads and was able to avoid loading by wiping them frequently.
 
I think the problem is that the foam pad gets saturated like a sponge; the core gets soaked, then flings it out when the pad starts to rotate. There really isn't alot of stuff left on the surface of the pad to wipe with a towel or brush off. Ultrafina is really water-y stuff.



I did take the rotary outside the garage a couple times and spin it up to about 2200 rpm just to try and spin dry the Ultrafina out of it. It helped get me a bit more usage from the pad.
 
SuperBee364- OK, gotcha..eh, what do I know about Ultrafina :o



Ever think of having a "sling tub" in the shop? I have a plastic tub that I put the rotary/cyclo in when I'm spinning the pads dry (I don't do it with the PC as they sometimes fly off).



Oh, and I'm guessing that the PO85RD gives a slightly better finish than the 1Z HG, huh? (Not that I plan to replace the latter ;) )
 
Accumulator said:
SuperBee364- OK, gotcha..eh, what do I know about Ultrafina :o



Ever think of having a "sling tub" in the shop? I have a plastic tub that I put the rotary/cyclo in when I'm spinning the pads dry (I don't do it with the PC as they sometimes fly off).



Oh, and I'm guessing that the PO85RD gives a slightly better finish than the 1Z HG, huh? (Not that I plan to replace the latter ;) )
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Score another "D'oh, why didn't I think of that??" moment. Great idea.. I have an old motor oil collection tub that will work perfectly for that. Much better than sneaking over to the neighbor's driveway and slinging polish all over.



Yeah, the PO85D has the potential to finish down to true Concours level of gloss, at a high time investment, with zero correction ability. 1Z finishes similar to Ultrafina.
 
Accumulator said:
Oh, and I'm guessing that the PO85RD gives a slightly better finish than the 1Z HG, huh? (Not that I plan to replace the latter ;) )
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I'm assuming you use 1Z HG? What are your thoughts on it?



I've been tempted to try it as its more affordable than some of the Menzerna nano polishes. Good on ceramics?
 
Alfisti said:
I'm assuming you use 1Z HG? What are your thoughts on it?



I've been tempted to try it as its more affordable than some of the Menzerna nano polishes. Good on ceramics?
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I'm the wrong guy to ask as I've only used it once, via Cyclo, as a finising polish on the '00 A8. It did work well, but when I tried to correct a minor RIDS I'd missed it wouldn't do the job, too mild. Might've done it via rotary :nixweiss



What I like about it is the way it's a "clean" product, not oily, with no chance of concealing if it's not worked properly. The low-rpm-friendly nature of it is a big plus for me too.
 
MDRX8 said:
So what would look best under my Vintage. I use PO85RD now.
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Keep using it. I didn't notice any difference (for better or worse) using ultrafina or 106ff. If you're going hd cleance/cf/whatever pre-wax then vintage, you end up with that same vintage-esque look everytime, imo.



detailjohn said:
You said that BMW paint is "soft"???
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I hear that a lot too; and to some extent it is true. BMW black is soft, and some of the other paints (monaco blue, carbon black, crimson red, imola red) tend to run soft too. I find most of the metallics (sparkling graphite, black sapphire, space grey, tiag, etc) to be average of above average in terms of "hardness". My cars paint is really, really, hard.



Alfisti said:
Why is that?
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I am assuming Bee means jet black, in which case it is likely due to the fact that it is (on e90s/e92s at least) usually super soft. It can be a real pain to work on. I just did an jb e92 328i the other day and was reminded what a nightmare that paint is.
 
Very nice topic. Bee do you do a SIP followed up by PO85RD and then your LSP .. do you ever fit 106FF into that equation?
 
Alfisti said:
Why is that?
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Picus nails it later on... In fact, he's the reason. He posted a click n brag of a jet black bmw about a year ago, where he demonstrated marring completely clean black bmw paint with a completely clean mf towel. yeesh.



Picus said:
Keep using it. I didn't notice any difference (for better or worse) using ultrafina or 106ff. If you're going hd cleance/cf/whatever pre-wax then vintage, you end up with that same vintage-esque look everytime, imo.







I hear that a lot too; and to some extent it is true. BMW black is soft, and some of the other paints (monaco blue, carbon black, crimson red, imola red) tend to run soft too. I find most of the metallics (sparkling graphite, black sapphire, space grey, tiag, etc) to be average of above average in terms of "hardness". My cars paint is really, really, hard.







I am assuming Bee means jet black, in which case it is likely due to the fact that it is (on e90s/e92s at least) usually super soft. It can be a real pain to work on. I just did an jb e92 328i the other day and was reminded what a nightmare that paint is.
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Yup, that's it. Do you have a link to the previously mentione CnB, Picus?



Mindflux said:
Very nice topic. Bee do you do a SIP followed up by PO85RD and then your LSP .. do you ever fit 106FF into that equation?
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I was using PO106FF as my finishing polish, but now I'm using primarily Ultrafina, then if I do want the extra bit of gloss, I use the PO85RD. But PO85RD doesn't really work on compounding haze, etc. You have to have a pretty nice finish before you go to the 85RD, cause it's got *no* game when it comes to correction.
 
I can't find a link to the cnb, but here is a link to the picture I think you're talking about.



linky!



Man that car was a nightmare.



FWIW, e46 M3's are the same, in my experience (the flat black ones).



Found some earlier discussion on this:



ted does his first jb e92, this was right after we release, we speculate that this car is a respray from the vdc. turns out it wasnt. Actually, if you read the second page I make an *** of myself and say I bet it was resprayed (I had not done a jb e92 yet :D) A few days later I post again when I was doing a 328 (above), and was going CRAZY because it was impossible to finish clean.

http://autopia.org/forum/click-and-brag/82627-2007-black-bmw-330-xi-worst-experience-so-far.html



Within a week I'd done 6 jb e92's, all with the same ridiculous paint.
 
SuperBee364 said:
I was using PO106FF as my finishing polish, but now I'm using primarily Ultrafina, then if I do want the extra bit of gloss, I use the PO85RD. But PO85RD doesn't really work on compounding haze, etc. You have to have a pretty nice finish before you go to the 85RD, cause it's got *no* game when it comes to correction.
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Interesting. So you use SIP if you require some hefty compounding followed by UF and then your LSP unless you desire more gloss then you go to 85RD before your LSP?



That's pretty interesting.



I think I can get some UF in town here at my CarQuest. It seems a lot of folks seem to really like it.
 
Picus said:
I can't find a link to the cnb, but here is a link to the picture I think you're talking about.



linky!



Man that car was a nightmare.



FWIW, e46 M3's are the same, in my experience (the flat black ones).



Found some earlier discussion on this:



ted does his first jb e92, this was right after we release, we speculate that this car is a respray from the vdc. turns out it wasnt. Actually, if you read the second page I make an *** of myself and say I bet it was resprayed (I had not done a jb e92 yet :D) A few days later I post again when I was doing a 328 (above), and was going CRAZY because it was impossible to finish clean.

http://autopia.org/forum/click-and-brag/82627-2007-black-bmw-330-xi-worst-experience-so-far.html



Within a week I'd done 6 jb e92's, all with the same ridiculous paint.
Click to expand...



Yup, I remember those CnB's well.... I read every one of them multiple times. Great stuff, Picus, you helped us here on the board learn as much as you did with those cars.



Mindflux said:
Interesting. So you use SIP if you require some hefty compounding followed by UF and then your LSP unless you desire more gloss then you go to 85RD before your LSP?



That's pretty interesting.



I think I can get some UF in town here at my CarQuest. It seems a lot of folks seem to really like it.
Click to expand...



Yup, that's it exactly, except that no matter what polish I finish with, I do an IPA wipedown before the LSP. If you're going to use a pre-wax cleaner or glaze before the LSP, there's really no need for the IPA wipedown, but I do it anyway to make sure that no flaws are concealed, and that the paint is corrected...uh... correctly. :)
 
SuperBee364 said:
Yup, I remember those CnB's well.... I read every one of them multiple times. Great stuff, Picus, you helped us here on the board learn as much as you did with those cars.







Yup, that's it exactly, except that no matter what polish I finish with, I do an IPA wipedown before the LSP. If you're going to use a pre-wax cleaner or glaze before the LSP, there's really no need for the IPA wipedown, but I do it anyway to make sure that no flaws are concealed, and that the paint is corrected...uh... correctly. :)
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Nod.



I'm a bit behind on everything new that's come to light. I have some 'original' Menzerna FP and IP (when that's all they offered). I plan to use that up (as I thought it worked extremely well) and maybe move on to M105 + UF combo, since I can likely get both of these with relative ease at a PB&E jobber here in town.



Menzerna at over a dollar an ounce is just flabbergasting, but then again the UF and M105 hover right at the $1.00 an oz mark.. so I guess it's not all that different.
 
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