Ugh, ran into a really sticky situation v.customer drove through something

Scott relax I run into this things sometimes, now im thinking of not touching anything that is not fixable, i used to take jobs before because the customer was begging me to fix paint and then i spend tons of hours and was getting like 80% or little more done and the rest was just unfix able, i spend more time and time is money so i was loosing money. But i usually charge full price since i spend a lot of time and customer is happy. ;) ITS LIFE lol
 
Scott,





I shd hv stumbled into this thread earlier!



Have done 2 4x4s that had this problem before (some kinda hardened rubbery silicone

stuff that looks like those used on aquariums).





Not effective - MEK, Acetone, Petrol, Diesel etc.

Have tried em all. Forget the rotary buffers and other machines.





At last, a detailing friend in Hong Kong provided this unorthodox but dangerous sounding method. And he sent me that "dangerous thing" by courier.





Are you familiar with that round, stubby rubber door stop used in most homes, mounted near the floor? It could be black, pink etc in colour. It's just a piece of stubby hard rubber.



Find a way to attach that tubular/round rubber to a cordless drill with variable speed. You can use a small drill bit, and drill into that piece of rubber. I know it's crude...but hold on.

As you operate the drill, that stubby piece of rubber will rotate. Assume it's a gigantic dremel, and use that rotating rubber to abrade off those silicon bits from the paintwork.

You'll instantly see bits of that silicone-looking stuff flying off and falling to the ground.

Superbly fast and effective......but leaves behind marring marks that's easy to rotary-buff away.





Removing old door visors:

Also, remember when you had to pull out that old, faded plastic door visor, and it left behind loads of hardened, crusted old double-sided tape?



Solvents either don't work or takes too much time. Use that rubber-thingy method, and you'll realise it's the fastest method. After that, rotary buff that area using small pads+compound to remove any marring. After doing 4 doors, your rubber thingy would be partially worn away. Remove it from the drill, and by a new rubber stopper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeeeeeehhhhaaaawwwwwwwwww!
 
Gigondaz is talking about something that is available pretty commonly. Its basically a rubber disc on the end of a drill attachment (think lighter density rubber hockey puck with a metal dowel in the middle). We used them often to remove pin striping and old adhesives.

wheel.gif
 
I just thought of something along these lines. I used to do a lot of drafting on the board and when you mad a mistake you would use a electric eraser to take off the pencil or lead marks. They still make these things. This would work great for small buffing or repair. Lots of different kinds of erasers, pink pearl and the white less abrasive kind. This might work great for hard paint splatters. I once had machine paint splatter on my car and that was nearly impossible to get off.:tongue2:



Amazon.com: Staedtler 527-00 Electric Erasing Machine, 10 ft. Cord, Hanging Hook, Erasers: Office Products
 
Not sure about technique with these (as we just used them to remove apparent pin striping) but it wouldn't be a bad idea to use your clay lube for those small dots. With pin striping it came off so effortlessly, not sure what kind of damage you could do when working with smaller particles. These things are decently soft though, think of hardness between pencil eraser and a door stop.
 
Try a 3M Eraser wheel – this 4-inch diameter wheel is made from a soft white polymer, which looks and feels like rubber.
 
TOGWT said:
Try a 3M Eraser wheel – this 4-inch diameter wheel is made from a soft white polymer, which looks and feels like rubber.
Click to expand...





Oh yeahhhh.......that 3M soft rubberythingy sounds appetising!

I'll try to get it.
 
TedFred said:
I just thought of something along these lines. I used to do a lot of drafting on the board and when you mad a mistake you would use a electric eraser to take off the pencil or lead marks. They still make these things. This would work great for small buffing or repair. Lots of different kinds of erasers, pink pearl and the white less abrasive kind. This might work great for hard paint splatters. I once had machine paint splatter on my car and that was nearly impossible to get off.:tongue2:



Amazon.com: Staedtler 527-00 Electric Erasing Machine, 10 ft. Cord, Hanging Hook, Erasers: Office Products
Click to expand...





Excellent contribution!! What a novel idea!





On stubborn paint splatters that can't be solved by claying, MPC, solvents, my fav method is to use Faber Castell's eraser. It has a grey side (for ink), and a white side (for pencil). The grey side is excellent for really stubborn paint spots/splatters, and produce "not-too-bad' marring that can be rotaried away.





If that eraser doesn't do the trick......dear ol' door stopper makes its appearance!!!!
 
gigondaz said:
Excellent contribution!! What a novel idea!





On stubborn paint splatters that can't be solved by claying, MPC, solvents, my fav method is to use Faber Castell's eraser. It has a grey side (for ink), and a white side (for pencil). The grey side is excellent for really stubborn paint spots/splatters, and produce "not-too-bad' marring that can be rotaried away.





If that eraser doesn't do the trick......dear ol' door stopper makes its appearance!!!!
Click to expand...



You could get those types of erasers for the electric eraser. The good thing about the electric is that you can focus on a really small area
 
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