UDM thoughts from a normal guy....Dissapointed

going back to the original post- I think it's important to realize that the UDM or PC is designed to remove and reduce micromarring, swirls and mild defects on cars in mostly good condition. It isn't designed to remove pitting, several oxidation or acid rain etching. Some of those defects can't be removed with a wool pad and rotary. It sounds as if the UDM is a step up from the PC powerwise and if that is the case it's a good deal.
 
Wow, $200 for a PC with a little more "oomph"



I didn't pay $200 for my PC with numerous pads/backing plates/bonnets, etc.



That's a hard sell for me, but I guess I could see myself making it happen if we can get some reviews on the machine that dont have to do with the weight/vibration/cord or on/off switch that prove this machine to be superior to the PC.
 
rkf76 said:
Wow, $200 for a PC with a little more "oomph"



I didn't pay $200 for my PC with numerous pads/backing plates/bonnets, etc.



That's a hard sell for me, but I guess I could see myself making it happen if we can get some reviews on the machine that dont have to do with the weight/vibration/cord or on/off switch that prove this machine to be superior to the PC.



A UDM costs $150, not $200. And you use the same backing plates/pads as you would with a PC, so it's not like you have to replace everything.



I have only used the UDM twice now, but I like it. With the PC, I could use KAIO or Vanilla Moose at 6, and polish for 1-2 minutes a section, but with a UDM, speed 6 is too powerful for those products and they flash way to quickly. Speed 3-4 is nice for those products with the UDM, so I'm guessing with the UDM, speed 4 is about equal to speed 6 on the PC. That is my non-scientific logic of why I think the UDM has more power than a PC. I'll report back once I do some heavier polishing on darker colors.
 
One thing I noticed this morning, when I was using the UDM on the hood, roof and rear deck it powered fine. Now when I used it on the verticle panels it bogged down. Its as if there is a gravity switch in there that made it so that it lost power. Anyone else experience this?
 
Bigpoppa3346 said:
A UDM costs $150, not $200. And you use the same backing plates/pads as you would with a PC, so it's not like you have to replace everything.



I have only used the UDM twice now, but I like it. With the PC, I could use KAIO or Vanilla Moose at 6, and polish for 1-2 minutes a section, but with a UDM, speed 6 is too powerful for those products and they flash way to quickly. Speed 3-4 is nice for those products with the UDM, so I'm guessing with the UDM, speed 4 is about equal to speed 6 on the PC. That is my non-scientific logic of why I think the UDM has more power than a PC. I'll report back once I do some heavier polishing on darker colors.
I think that he was talking about the v2.0 that would be $50 more.
 
WilliamHBonney said:
I think that he was talking about the v2.0 that would be $50 more.
Exactly.



I just don't see the logic of getting one right now with so many issues with it, and nobody has done any comprehensive review of the thing so i'm still waiting for that as well.
 
rkf76 said:
Exactly.



I just don't see the logic of getting one right now with so many issues with it, and nobody has done any comprehensive review of the thing so i'm still waiting for that as well.



+1 exactly why I asked when the V2.0 was going to be realeased!



Im not about to invest 150$ on a machine that has more problems than my pc.



Im really glad i didnt jump on the bandwagon and get the first model. Ill defintly be waiting for V 2.0!
 
Not that it makes much difference but the list price of the PC is $245.



Maybe if it didn't come with the carry bag, it'd cost less?
 
phamkl said:
Not that it makes much difference but the list price of the PC is $245.



Maybe if it didn't come with the carry bag, it'd cost less?
who pays list?



Anybody who pays $245 for a PC, when there are large packages to be had all day for that price, gets what they deserve.



I believe PC's run about $129 nowadays.
 
I agree on the chord issue. It's so short that any time I'd drag it behind me, iit kept coming out of the extension chord. That plus the on/off switch issue made it a pain. Otherwise, it performed very well.



I think I'll duct-tape its connection to the extension chord tomorrow when I finish up.
 
Matrix 1 said:
I agree on the chord issue. It's so short that any time I'd drag it behind me, iit kept coming out of the extension chord. That plus the on/off switch issue made it a pain. Otherwise, it performed very well.



I think I'll duct-tape its connection to the extension chord tomorrow when I finish up.



No need to use tape. Just loop the UDM cord and extension cord into half of a knot when plugging them together.
 
mbkintner said:
No need to use tape. Just loop the UDM cord and extension cord into half of a knot when plugging them together.

Yup ... that's always been standard practice with my PC. I worry more about the extension cord coming unplugged from the wall.
 
Bigpoppa3346 said:
A UDM costs $150, not $200. And you use the same backing plates/pads as you would with a PC, so it's not like you have to replace everything.



I have only used the UDM twice now, but I like it. With the PC, I could use KAIO or Vanilla Moose at 6, and polish for 1-2 minutes a section, but with a UDM, speed 6 is too powerful for those products and they flash way to quickly. Speed 3-4 is nice for those products with the UDM, so I'm guessing with the UDM, speed 4 is about equal to speed 6 on the PC.



That still doesn't specifically address for sure if the UDM corrects faster or removes heavier/deeper defects than the PC. Since you apparently also have a PC, have you done any side by side testing with the PC and UDM both on their max speed using the same polish and pads?
 
Scottwax said:
That still doesn't specifically address for sure if the UDM corrects faster or removes heavier/deeper defects than the PC.

That is a question that still does not have the definite answer, especially because some report feeling PC ended up working better for them:



Autogeekonline Car Detailing Forum - Scrap Hood- Wetsanding



"Up today was a head to head comparision of the UDM and the PC. Since the hood is in decent shape I decided to add some swirls to it. ...



It's too early for a conclusion but this is the second time that I've had better results via PC. It could be because I have had more time with the PC and the more experience helps... or just the swirls on the UDM side were a little deeper (I don't think that's the case... I was careful to be as even as possible)."
 
ZoranC said:
That is a question that still does not have the definite answer, especially because some report feeling PC ended up working better for them:



Autogeekonline Car Detailing Forum - Scrap Hood- Wetsanding



"Up today was a head to head comparision of the UDM and the PC. Since the hood is in decent shape I decided to add some swirls to it. ...



It's too early for a conclusion but this is the second time that I've had better results via PC. It could be because I have had more time with the PC and the more experience helps... or just the swirls on the UDM side were a little deeper (I don't think that's the case... I was careful to be as even as possible)."



Interesting results. I noticed he used 7.5" pads, could be the smaller UDM backing plate isn't able to apply enough pressure across the entire pad the way a larger backing plate would.



I now have a UDM in my possession, I'll get some side by side stuff using the same speeds, same size and cut pads and same polish.
 
Scottwax said:
I'll get some side by side stuff using the same speeds, same size and cut pads and same polish.





Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Thanks so much Scott. I can't believe no one was willing to compare the 2. How difficult can that be?



I'll be looking for your results, since I trust your opinion.



Can't wait.
 
Back
Top