Trouble detailing black explorer, need answers

A

AutoNova

New member
Today I worked a black explorer. I did the following:



Wash

Clay

Wash

Meg's Cleaner Wax with PC

AIO on the roof

Carnubua wax with the PC



Couple questions,



When using the PC what are people removing the wax with? I used a black pad (TOL) to apply the Meg's. Then a terry bonnet to remove. I wasn't real comfortable with the bonnet.



On the PC do people tend to use a pad and cover the whole car and then remove? For example if I have the black pad on and I am applying cleaner would I cover the whole car then remove?



I then used the white pad to apply the Carnubua and removed by hand, what could I have done to make use of the PC?



The car came out fine but there was alot of contaminants that did not come off, tree sap, etc. Should I have cut the paint with something stronger?
 
I just use a MT towel to remove wax by hand. I've tried a lambswool pad, covered with a MF bonnett. Doesn't do it for me.



Cut it with something stronger? Yeah, probably, but you haven't given us much to go on...



Jim
 
When you say I have given enoughh to go on, what do you mean? Is there something I have left out? When I say cut it with something stronger I mean that alot of the paint contaminants did not come off. Let me know your thoughts.
 
If I am using Megs #26 I apply it to the whole car, I use a cordeless orbital with a 4" foam pad to apply. To remoce I use the white screw in pad that came with the PC and I set it on a MF towel and take the wax off. The white pad seems to grab right on the the MF. Lately I have been using the 5/$5 MF from Wal-Mart for this .. 2 towels remove #26 from a full sized car.
 
I only use the Grey pads (if we are talking about the Lake County pads from properautocare) to apply wax. The white has a little more bite, which isn't needed for application of the wax. You probably do need something stronger than a cleaner wax to get the defects out. Even something like a paint cleaner will take out minor things. I used Meg's DC paint cleaner, #7, and #26 with surprising results on an Explorer that had been neglected this summer. It turned out much better than expected. I used a white pad with the DC, and grey with the #7 and #26. I don't use the PC for removal. I find it easier to remove products with a quality MF towel. I tried them for the first time this summer and now won't go back to Terry towels for removal of most things.



-FordTaurus
 
I was also doing a black vehicle today, my first one for $$. I hardly ever use the black (finishing) pads when polishing. I always start with the white pad as it has more 'bite'. For tougher surfaces (heavy oxidation & stuff) you can move up to the yellow cutting pad.



As far as your products, instead of cleaner/wax which may not be 'cutting' enough , you might try Meg's DACP(6) or a bit less abrasive Meg's Speed Glaze(4). Spilchy and the tech guy from Meguiar's talked me into trying the Speed Glaze recently and I've been real happy with it. I've been using these 2 as my main polishes and getting good results.



As far as contaminants, after wash & clay, I spot-clean the vehicle with Bug n Tar remover first before polishing to get rid of any obvious problem spots.



Use of the PC will probably get lots of answers, but I like to do one section at a time, then buff. Hood, front quarter, roof, etc. Gives me an orderly way of going thru the vehicle and also dont like to let the polishes sit TOO long and harden up before having to buff 'em out. (my achin' muscles!)
 
Has anyone used WD-40 to get rib of tree sap and other contaminants?



I like the idea of using the screw in pad and a couple MF towels.



kpounds...what white pad do you mean for cutting? Is that Lake Country or TOL? The white pad I got w/the PC is the softest pad except for the screw in pad.
 
I meant the white polishing pad by TOL. 90% of the time I start with it and if more bite needed, move up to the yellow cutting pad.
 
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