Tried the PC with Menzerna and looked like ****... what did I do wrong?
- Thread starter cali6869
- Start date
Mochamanz1
Sun Blinded Detailer
a10v28 said:
I planned to use a PC when I get around to updating my detail, I was waiting for spring to start this project. I am suprised to hear about a PC not being adequate to work IP and FP. This is the first mention of the need for a rotory. I have a makita rotory, but was planning on retiring it due to my lack of pleasure with the risk of burning. I hope a PC does the trick without me resorting to stressful tools
blkyukon
New member
mochamanz said:
I planned to use a PC when I get around to updating my detail, I was waiting for spring to start this project. I am suprised to hear about a PC not being adequate to work IP and FP. This is the first mention of the need for a rotory. I have a makita rotory, but was planning on retiring it due to my lack of pleasure with the risk of burning. I hope a PC does the trick without me resorting to stressful tools
If you see my post above with the links you'll see that IP and FP both work great with a PC maybe just not as fast... FP is my best finishing polish, for me it burnishes the paint like no other finishing polish I've used.:xyxthumbs
imported_NYV6Coupe
New member
I know that CMA says "Menzerna designed this polish (FPII) to be applied with a dual-action (Porter Cable 7424) polisher or a circular polisher but it can be applied by hand" so you can go with either tool, but I'm pretty sure a rotary is recommended only for PG due to the aggressiveness of the abrasives. A PC probably cannot generate enough heat to break down PG so I'd limit a PC to IP & FPII.
Whenever I've used FPII (I never used the original FP) with a PC & a white LC pad, it leaves the surface squeaky clean. Again, CMA says "Final Polish II contains no wax, glaze, fillers or silicones. Minor spider webbing is removed, not just covered-up. Paint gloss is improved by polishing the surface to a micro-smooth, highly reflective finish, not by adding a glaze of silicone oils".
Yes, it could be just a bunch of CMA advertising hype but I've read more posts referring to FPII leaving a squeaky clean surface than posts about an oily surface and, IMHO, most people that have tried IP and/or FPII are very pleased with these products and they become their go-to mechanical polishes.
Whenever I've used FPII (I never used the original FP) with a PC & a white LC pad, it leaves the surface squeaky clean. Again, CMA says "Final Polish II contains no wax, glaze, fillers or silicones. Minor spider webbing is removed, not just covered-up. Paint gloss is improved by polishing the surface to a micro-smooth, highly reflective finish, not by adding a glaze of silicone oils".
Yes, it could be just a bunch of CMA advertising hype but I've read more posts referring to FPII leaving a squeaky clean surface than posts about an oily surface and, IMHO, most people that have tried IP and/or FPII are very pleased with these products and they become their go-to mechanical polishes.
imported_NYV6Coupe
New member
mochamanz said:
This is the first mention of the need for a rotory. I have a makita rotory, but was planning on retiring it due to my lack of pleasure with the risk of burning. I hope a PC does the trick without me resorting to stressful tools
mochamanz: The IP & FPII products work great with a PC & the correct pads but before you retire the Makita think about using the LC tufted foam pads. Almost no risk of burning & the results are excellent.
I'm a noob with a PC & I inherited an old 2-speed WEN rotary from a friend so I bought a couple tufted pads from scottP. I did my Dad's totally tired & abused black 1996 Mercury using IP on an orange tufted pad and finished with FPII on a white tufted pad and the results were way beyond my ability .... zero damage, 1st time I ever used a rotary and the Merc never looked better.
Still no nads to do my own car (really doesn't need a rotary) but what a confidence booster.
cali6869 said:
cali, I'm totally shocked to read about the results you got with the Menzerna duo.
I'm not having a go at you when I say that they're about the easiest polishes to use, even easier than Megs. I use them exclusively with a PC and an orange pad followed by megs polishing pad.
You haven't described how you used them, so I will give you some general advice, and then you can use it to narrow down the problem. Everyone has a variation for use, but I found this process fool-proof.
For IP:
1) Spritz your dry pad once or twice with a QD.
2) Squeeze a generous ring of polish on the pad.
3) With the PC still off, spread the polish on 2x2 area.
4) Set the PC on 3 and spread the polish evenly.
5) Start at one corner of your designated area and, with the PC on 4.5 and medium pressure, move very slowly (1/2' per second) left to right then up and down for one pass. When doing this, you should see the polish liquifying and going clear at the edge of the pad. This indicates that you're moving at the right speed. If you don't see this, slow down and/or add a little more pressure.
6) Turn up the speed to 5.5 and again, slowly, follow the above procedure. By this stage, all the polish should have gone clear and oily.
7) Take off all the weight from the PC and keep working the clear residue for a couple more passes or until virtually gone (at 1' per second).
8) Wipe off residue with a MF. You won't need water or any liquid to achieve this. It should wipe right off and leave the surface glossy and squeeky to touch. It leaves no oil or fillers.
9) Inspect your work to see if all marring removed. If not, repeat the above. All subsequent applications should require half as much polish now that the pad is loaded up. Always work the polish in well.
For FP:
Same as above, except:
1) Use a light polishing or finishing pad.
2) Apply a thin line around the pad once its loaded after the first time - the less the better.
3) Set the PC at 5 after the initial spreading.
4) Only apply the weight of the PC, no more is necessary.
5) Only requires a couple of light passes.
6) Move the PC at 2' per second.
7) If your pad can handle it, crank it up to 6 for the final light burnishing.
8) Stand back with your sunglasses on and admire the glossy finish! :bigups
Accumulator
Well-known member
Alfisti said:
I'd sure try Alfisti's way of working the Menzerna before trying the Meg's polishes; the #83 I consider quite user-UNfriendly. The #80 is pretty easy to use but it sounds like you need something stronger than that.
IMO most people don't spend long enough working an area, they try to do the job too fast. Paint correction by PC is a rather slow and laborious process. It's not too unusual to spend over an hour working a panel....
Jesstzn
New member
Accumulator said:
Last spring I spent close to 35 hours getting rid of the winter swirling etc and mine wasn't in bad shape at all.
I didn't get too aggressive .. IP on a white pad and followed by FP on a white pad. I could have went IP on a yellow pad but I believe in more time .. less aggressive where my car is concerned.