Tried HD UNO for the first time ever today.

Well, take some uno and shine up some old jewelry your wife has laying around with some old rag. You will see its cutting power.



tuscarora dave said:
So do you think the Uno is doing most of the cutting or is the pad just being lubricated by the Uno at some point and the pad actually doing the work? Just want your knowledge or opinion on this.
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I have a feeling that I will still be using HD Uno when this thing need polished again so not having a wife I'll try that the next time I do this. Thanks for all of your help and advice.



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Dave, as Thomas implied, you're still using too much UNO. If you use less, it will cut more. I know that's counter-intuitive but that's how UNO works. The reason is that UNO's special lubricants get in the way of the micro-abrasives. Too much UNO gives you more abrasives (which you don't need) but also gives you more lube (which you definitely don't need).



Think of the abrasives as your car tyres trying to get traction and someone adding oil to the road. Cutting back on the UNO, cuts back on lube, increases cut! You don't want to go too far the other way but you have a significant threshold before dry-buffing with UNO.
 
Alfisti said:
Dave, as Thomas implied, you're still using too much UNO. If you use less, it will cut more. I know that's counter-intuitive but that's how UNO works. The reason is that UNO's special lubricants get in the way of the micro-abrasives. Too much UNO gives you more abrasives (which you don't need) but also gives you more lube (which you definitely don't need).



Think of the abrasives as your car tyres trying to get traction and someone adding oil to the road. Cutting back on the UNO, cuts back on lube, increases cut! You don't want to go too far the other way but you have a significant threshold before dry-buffing with UNO.
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Thanks for the very easy to understand description of how HD Uno works. It is counter intuitive for sure but with the foam finishing pad I used yesterday, I saw for myself that it is true as I was only using a few (3-4) pea sized dabs of polish and it was finishing well.



For the cutting of the heavy oxidation with the wool pad the less is more approach wasn't really working that well for me. Have you used this less is more approach when cutting severely oxidized single stage paint with wool? I got it done with very good results in an acceptable time frame by using more product, i.e. picking up the bead.
 
I've used it with PFW pads on SS white that was moderately oxidized. I used very little UNO - 2-3 peas per panel. However, I was using a BO6040 forced rotation so UNO behaves a bit differently on this compared to a rotary. I find UNO responds well to increasing pressure more than most polishes. It really improves cut.



Not sure but I think it was Thomas who found UNO sometimes cuts better than a rotary on some paints using a Flex with forced rotation.
 
So I'm having a lot of trouble with the HD Uno compound, I have sanded my trunk down with 2000 grit sand paper and then proceeded with HD Uno with a orange cutting pad, the bottle says it will remove 1200 grit scratches with ease so I figured I would have no problem I went about polishing off the trunk and it looked really bad, so I continued to finish the trunk thinking it would haze and I would wipe it away and have an amazing shine but no such luck, the trunk feels amazing but looks horrible, I would have been better off leaving the terrible orange peel so I could still have the amazing shine, everywhere I read everyone is having incredible results, so what am I doing wrong? should I be cutting with a wool pad instead of the orange foam pad? I can still see every scratch I put in the trunk with the sand paper could someone please help me? I am so lost right now
 
Sorry to hear you're having such a hard time with it. Firstly, don't panic. Secondly, describe your process with as much detail as possible. Thirdly, you'll definitely need to start with a wool pad. We should be able to help you through this.



Worse case is you may need to sand with 3000 paper before UNO, but it may not come to that.
 
thanks for the response, I have just painted my car so I have fresh paint within 2 weeks, hence the reason for wanting near perfection with this project, my process was as followed sanded down the runs with 400 grit, once they were leveled I then sanded the trunk down with 1000 grit using a spray bottle and a squeegee I made sure I had gotten rid of all the orange peel on the entire trunk and then proceeded with 1500 grit sand paper and then with 2000 grit sand paper using a spray bottle and keeping the entire surface area wet, I then rinsed the area off and cleared if of any dirt and dust from the wet sanding, I then used the orange cutting pad and used the 3D HD Uno to polish the trunk it still looked a little hazy and was not sure of the nature of the product so then I proceeded with the HD Poxy with a red polishing pad and it brought a little shine to the area but by no means the shine I have been seeing by other people using the product, also I was using the second to lowest setting on my buffer, since this is my first time doing this I am a little afraid of burning through my clear coat, also I did spray 4 coats of clear if that helps any, maybe my buffer isn't set right? or I was planing on getting a twisted wool pad to help, the kit shown on the banner above is the one I bought minus the buffer I also got the pads flat instead of waffled



I'm hoping it's me since it's my first time doing this, if you guys could give me some techniques or tips to help me get this worked out, I can post pic's of my results later today once I get home from work
 
Maybe go over the hood a couple times with the orange foam at a moderate speed (depending on buffer - what did you use?) - it should clarify the finish.



If you have your technique right and use the correct amount (not too much) of UNO then you may need a wool pad. LC purple foamed wool is great and I've heard good things about TufBuf clicky.



Have you watched any of the instructional videos on how to use UNO?
 
Alfisti said:
Maybe go over the hood a couple times with the orange foam at a moderate speed (depending on buffer - what did you use?) - it should clarify the finish.



If you have your technique right and use the correct amount (not too much) of UNO then you may need a wool pad. LC purple foamed wool is great and I've heard good things about TufBuf clicky.



Have you watched any of the instructional videos on how to use UNO?
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I'm going to be getting a 3M wool pad, but I have not seen any videos, I was looking to see if there was an instructral video on this, would it be Autopia TV? this would be very helpful
 
Alfisti said:
You didn't tell us what machine you're using. :hurt:



Here's a video:



HD UNO by MACHINE - hdcarcare.com - YouTube



And a thread:

http://www.autopia.org/forum/3d-high-definition-car-care/135572-paint-leveling-hd-uno.html



Do a search, you'll find more.
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Not to be a dweeb, but that video doesn't help with anything and Barry wet sanded the car down to 4000 grit first before using UNO. I have worked with this product using less and less product each time and still, it doesn't seem to work for me with the less is more technique unless the panel has been cut with a wool pad first. I'm beginning to think that HD UNO is nothing more than a pad dependent finishing polish. I don't get it.
 
Dave, what are you using to polish with?



If your statement was true, how did I correct all the cars in the last 3 years? :D:D:D



Now, many times I do use wool for a number of reasons, and maybe you should try wool as well. :)



tuscarora dave said:
Not to be a dweeb, but that video doesn't help with anything and Barry wet sanded the car down to 4000 grit first before using UNO. I have worked with this product using less and less product each time and still, it doesn't seem to work for me with the less is more technique unless the panel has been cut with a wool pad first. I'm beginning to think that HD UNO is nothing more than a pad dependent finishing polish. I don't get it.
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I have tried wool and had reasonable success with it using the same amount of product that I do when using another well known compound but it takes much longer. I have offered photos of the amount of product that I did use in conjunction with the wool pad. Now keep in mind that that I did have success with a typical amount of product as I have learned through reading Kevin Brown's writings on the KBM and supplemental wetting agents. However, experienced HD UNO users all say that I am using way too much product. Another thing to note is that I am using a rotary polisher to do the testing of HD UNO. When I use less and less product the results are less and less effective, taking longer and longer to get any cut. I am trying to get my head around the concept in general. I'm not limiting my testing to any one particular style or size of pad. I've worked with several pads ranging from wool pads, all the way down through the different cut levels of foam pads. I can get results with this product just as I can get results with a non abrasive chemical polish such as Poorboy's Pro Polish.



It's the less is more thing in my cutting of heavier swirls that I am having trouble with. Not trying to start trouble. I've just recieved another sample of HD UNO and in my testing have not been able to see where using it can add any value to my process. I am trying to learn more but all I ever see is folks saying use less product.
 
I think a lot of people expect to get M105 type of cut with UNO. I can say I don't get close. Probably about 50% or hard clears. That said I am able to get done faster with UNO.
 
Dan said:
I think a lot of people expect to get M105 type of cut with UNO. I can say I don't get close. Probably about 50% or hard clears. That said I am able to get done faster with UNO.
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Thanks. Are you using a rotary or a DA? I have the new 3D polisher coming and will try my hand at using it with HD UNO. Faster is where it's at and that's where I want to be.
 
tuscarora dave said:
Thanks. Are you using a rotary or a DA? I have the new 3D polisher coming and will try my hand at using it with HD UNO. Faster is where it's at and that's where I want to be.
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Either, but more via rotary. The advantage to UNO is it cuts well, has a long working window, and almost no dust. If you've done a lot of work with M105, you know how long the cleanup can be. You either tape EVERYTHING or end up cleaning every single crevice. I'd rather spend more time polishing than cleaning. Overall, even though I don't get the same cut, I spend less time. I feel that a lot of the cut factor can be overcome with more aggressive pads.
 
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