Touch-up paint

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EpRAnGia

New member
Such a luck I'm having lately with my new car... two small scratches on the next day I picked up the car... two medium scratches that light buffing wouldnt take out. :angry And today!!! got hit by a metal scrap possibly from some car accident that was flung by a car infront of me... It left one inch long deep scratch and chip that both showing metal part under primer layer... :shocked

I went to the dealer straight and bought touch-up paint. Painted over the metal parts after I got back home.

Been reading "how to remove chips and scratches" thread here and found out that I need to put primer over the metal before applying touch-up paint and at or above 60oF.

So my question are:

Since I painted over the metal parts, do I have to remove the painted part and apply primer? If yes, how can I remove touched up part?

Also, the temperature today was pretty cold... definitely way below 60oF.... what can be by applying touch-up paint below 15oF?

What else can I do now?....

:confused:
 
I would worry more about the temp than primer. I have touched up several scratches on my car without primer. One is at least 2 years old with no problem. Did you clean the scratch, before applying the paint?
 
EpRAnGia said:
...Since I painted over the metal parts, do I have to remove the painted part and apply primer? If yes, how can I remove touched up part?

Also, the temperature today was pretty cold... definitely way below 60oF.... what can be by applying touch-up paint below 15oF?

What else can I do now?....

:confused:
Click to expand...



One of the reasons you prime is because paint doesn't adhere well to bare metal. The primer (especially an etching primer) bonds to the metal substrate. Without the primer it is much more likely that the paint will lift.



If the metal was exposed for any length of time there is increased risk of rust. Any rust that is on the surface must be removed before painting/priming. If rust does get started before painting it will likely continue. When painting bare metal panels it is also a good idea to use a "converter" to stabilize the metal surface before priming (but I don't think many people bother for small spot touch-up).



Touch-up paint is not nearly as sturdy as a factory finish. I would start with mineral spirits and/or lacquer thinner. They won't hurt a factory finish but will remove some touch-up paints. If that doesn't work there are paint removers with varying grades of aggressiveness but using even the gentlest formulas is not for the faint of heart (or risk averse). Very careful spot sanding may be a better idea.



I'm not sure what effect the temperature will have on a small spot touch-up (I'm assuming you brushed/dabbed it on). I would suppose that when things get warm again there is increased risk of cracking and de-bonding due to thermal expansion.





PC.
 
Thanks for the replies.

It's a fresh wound so there's no rust yet... going to touch up more on this weekend after washing the car....
 
luvthong said:
Are those touch up paint that I got fomr Pep Boys at the same level of quality of OEM ones?
Click to expand...
I don't know how the touch-up paint from Pep Boys (Dupli-Color I presume?) compares to OEM touch-up paint.



I can say that neither OEM nor aftermarket touch-up paints come anywhere near the performance of OEM paint.**



The factory finish is the result of a multi-part, multi-stage process, applied under carefully controlled conditions then baked in accordance with tightly defined specifications. Touch-up paint is only intended to look about the same, not fall off and be easy to apply in uncontrolled conditions.





PC.









**yeah sure, sometimes the factory screws up. I know at least one truck whose crummy original paint is practically leaping off.
 
Is primer still necessary for fiberglass cars? I am trying to fill a small scrape underneath the front bumper lip and am not sure how.
 
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