To Opticoat or Not?

Finishing polishes don't remove the Guard/Coat. You can do light corrective/cosmetic work with them, even kicking down partially cured high spots, but for reliable removing (or cured high spots) you need something more powerful.
 
tonipieleanu said:
That looks impressive but after how long after application was this taken?



I have a similar dilemma as yakky. I use ONR as my main wash and I'm pretty sure after a couple of washed the beading/sheeting will drop due to the polymers in ONR.
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That was only a week after application (as noted in the video) but I had it on for 9 months last year and it was still going strong then too. Only reason I removed it was because I picked up some light marring over the winter from brushing off snow and people brushing against the car in parking lots.
 
As Bence mentioned above, Finishing polish won't remove OC, it needs a compound to remove that much product.



And as mentioned by TOGWT, your CC contains UV absorbers of their own. As far as I can understand OC doesn't, but due to it being a ceramic polymer, it's more UV resistant than CC and probably doesn't need it.
 
I've removed the Opti-Guard with Opt Polish II by hand and a MF applicator. I don't think it requires quite as much effort to remove as people make it out too be.
 
David Fermani said:
Chaulk one up to to beading on this one. This would most likely happen with any LSP, but in this case the coating is spotted, not the paint.
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I'd agree with most any sealant, not sure I'd agree with a pure (non hybrid) carnauba.
 
RaskyR1 said:
I've removed the Opti-Guard with Opt Polish II by hand and a MF applicator. I don't think it requires quite as much effort to remove as people make it out too be.
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MF can actually be quite aggressive. I've removed scratches with MF handpad and UNO that a polishing pad couldn't touch.



Just curious - how can you tell that OC is removed as opposed to being 'scuffed'?
 
It's never really been clear to me from what I read about OC so far, so I wonder, what exterior surfaces, other than seals and tires, is OC *not* good on?
 
Alfisti said:
MF can actually be quite aggressive. I've removed scratches with MF handpad and UNO that a polishing pad couldn't touch.



Just curious - how can you tell that OC is removed as opposed to being 'scuffed'?
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True. I started with Opt Finish and a foam applicator which was not cutting it. I polished a few small spots on my trunk to see what it took to remove the coating. After a wash with OPC and CGCW there was no beading on the spots....that's really all I can base my observation on. ;)
 
flexible rubber moldings like the kind on the 05 -10 durango front lip spoiler below the bumper. opt recommends not putting it on glass (but we don't listen to well).
 
Bill D said:
It's never really been clear to me from what I read about OC so far, so I wonder, what exterior surfaces, other than seals and tires, is OC *not* good on?
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The way I understood it is that you wouldn't want to apply it to anything that has a lot of flexing (tires, seals, mud flaps...). If paint on the car is over stretched (large hail dent, bumper impact) it can crack the paint. I believe the same principle applies with the coating. I would wait for Chris to chime in on this one though as this is just my take on it going on what I've been told.
 
Okay, thanks guys. I figured there aren't many surfaces it can't coat but I'll stay tuned for more info.
 
RaskyR1 said:
True. I started with Opt Finish and a foam applicator which was not cutting it. I polished a few small spots on my trunk to see what it took to remove the coating. After a wash with OPC and CGCW there was no beading on the spots....that's really all I can base my observation on. ;)
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Could the beading drop after being 'scuffed' rather than removed? :nixweiss
 
Alfisti said:
Could the beading drop after being 'scuffed' rather than removed? :nixweiss
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There was NO beading, as in a pool of water over the whole spot. :D



I don't think there is any real way to tell if it's fully removed, but in my mind if there is no longer and type of beading it's likely gone.
 
tdekany said:
DAVID, is the untreated side also water spotted?
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Nope. The bare side doesn't have any spots. I can gaurantee that because of the way and lenght of time the dirty water was left beading on the treated side(multiple hours throughout the day) that it allowed the water minerals to etch into the Opti-Coat. I actually showed this to Dr. G @ last year's Detail Fest and he agreed.



Yakky - I wouldn't rule out a Carnuba doing the same thing under these circumstances either. The culprit is the beading, not the product IMHO.



RaskyR1 said:
David have you tried any chemical spot removers on the spots yet? My can can nailed by a sprinkler and CG Water Spot Remover took them right off....I thought for sure it had etched into the coating!
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I haven't yet, but want to. Just have to make some time. Actually, the spots have significantly washed away from the coating after looking at it yesterday. Similar thing happened when I left love bugs etching to sit on the coating after I washed my car earlier this year. In that case they vanished over time.
 
David Fermani said:
Yakky - I wouldn't rule out a Carnuba doing the same thing under these circumstances either. The culprit is the beading, not the product IMHO.
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Long term, absolutely. Short term, I dunno. Fresh carnauba (<2 weeks) seems pretty impervious. Even to spotting. A wipe with a wet cloth seems to remove it all.
 
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