To Opticoat or Not?

Dan

Dan

Well-known member
A friend gave me his syringe of Opticoat. I love the promise, but the more I think of it, the less sure it offers any protection advantages over sacrificial products. :think: The biggest thing that worries me is Opticoat doesn't claim to offer UVA/UVB protection. What am I getting for my time/money? Is it 2-4 more microns of paint?



The only thing that seems to be factual is that it releases dirt better that no LSP. My paint is already hard, so that's not advantage. Waterspots and bird droppings, my two worst enemies are still an issue.
 
yakky said:
A friend gave me his syringe of Opticoat. I love the promise, but the more I think of it, the less sure it offers any protection advantages over sacrificial products. :think: The biggest thing that worries me is Opticoat doesn't claim to offer UVA/UVB protection. What am I getting for my time/money? Is it 2-4 more microns of paint?



The only thing that seems to be factual is that it releases dirt better that no LSP. My paint is already hard, so that's not advantage. Waterspots and bird droppings, my two worst enemies are still an issue.
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From Dr. G...





Opti-Coat is a one component moisture cure clear coat much like a one-component moisture cure isocyanates paint. Once it is applied, just like other clear coats, there is no need to add boosters or other maintenance products to replenish it. The only way Opti-Coat is removed is by polishing, wet sanding, or use of paint removers. IPA, Prep-Sol, Detergents, degreasers, or other chemical cleaners will not affect Opti-Coat. Since there are many types of clear coats, I will base my comparison on urethanes since they are widely used in the automotive industry.



Opti-Coat vs. Urethane clears



Much better scratch and Mar resistance

Much better release properties (readily sheds dirt and oil)

Much better UV resistance (no yellowing over time)

Much better gloss retention

Does not oxidize (will continue to bead water and release dirt for years).



By adding Opti-Coat over the existing clear coat, the clear coat will be fully protected from all these elements. One other factor to consider is that every time clear coat is polished, some paint is removed. Most car manufacturers suggest that removing 0.2 mils or more of clear coat will lead to paint failure. Opti-Coat will replenish the clearcoat and prevents this from ever happening. This alone will make adding Opti-Coat after any polishing or compounding a safe and cost effective approach.
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Do you find yourself polishing often to remove waterspot and or bird dropping etching? If so, then opti- coat may not be the product for you. But you can still apply it to other areas such as wheels, headlights/ taillights, etc.
 
YES!!!! to opti coat or any of the other coatings vs other lsps. I had C quarts on the hood and as soon as you rinse the panel off you see the difference.
 
I will consider it for applications like those areas such as the grille and emblems--seems like no matter what sealant I may apply to them,they are still prone to oxidation and greening in the corners.
 
I guess my issue is I haven't been convinced it offers the best protection out there. The last pic David F posted, the passenger side looks better to me.
 
D&D Auto Detail said:
Do you find yourself polishing often to remove waterspot and or bird dropping etching? If so, then opti- coat may not be the product for you. But you can still apply it to other areas such as wheels, headlights/ taillights, etc.
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Exactly! Although I may eventually OC the daily driver, currently I only have it on my wheels and windows. If nothing else, it is the perfect wheel LSP since I haven't found anything sticks to it. Tar specks and brake dust come off with ONR and a MF. If you have a car that throws a lot of brake dust (Yakky, you KNOW your Audis fit this category!) the stuff is a lifesaver.
 
If you want looks, OC isn't going to give it to you. Just like adding multiple coats of CC. Therefore, there is no appearance difference from the driver's side to the passenger side on my car. If I told someone with a trained eye to tell me which side looks better there's no way you could make an educated assessment which side was treated. Now throw some water on the car and it's very obvious.



If you're someone that likes to periodically wax/seal your car, then OC isn't for you either. Unlike clearcoat, OC will reject anything you apply over it. It might look different for a short period of time, but it will take a nose dive shortly.



If you're someone who hungers for protection from a true sacrifical barrier, then it gets no better. You will be hard pressed to kill this stuff. I've been trying trust me. I think it's a must have for wheels and glass. Unlike wheel waxes and sealants short lived lifespan, OC makes a huge difference in this department. It really makes cleaning difficult to clean wheels a breeze. It also makes a big difference with bugs too. I can visually see the difference on the bumper/hood where the lovebugs left etching on the bare side, but not on the OC'd side. That, to me is huge. Also, applying OC to the windshield will drastically reduce the need for wiper useage, therefore eliminating the potential for wiper marring.
 
David Fermani said:
Therefore, there is no appearance difference from the driver's side to the passenger side on my car. If I told someone with a trained eye to tell me which side looks better there's no way you could make an educated assessment which side was treated. Now throw some water on the car and it's very obvious.
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Picture021-1.jpg




Is it me, or does the drivers side look more dull and water spotted?
 
Yes, very bad water spots going on there, but believe it or not, because of the color, it's not super detectable in the sun light. It's when you look at it under light at night that it's really appearant. That's the potential trade off when you try to create this condition by spraying city water on your car multiple times throughout the day in the boiling hot FL sun. Chaulk one up to to beading on this one. This would most likely happen with any LSP, but in this case the coating is spotted, not the paint.
 
DAVID, is the untreated side also water spotted?





David Fermani said:
Yes, very bad water spots going on there, but believe it or not, because of the color, it's not super detectable in the sun light. It's when you look at it under light at night that it's really appearant. That's the potential trade off when you try to create this condition by spraying city water on your car multiple times throughout the day in the boiling hot FL sun. Chaulk one up to to beading on this one. This would most likely happen with any LSP, but in this case the coating is spotted, not the paint.
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Tell me about the etching: I had to polish out a *black Ceramiclear* Benz that had it. At the time only a rotary would get results. The awful water can instantly create a paint nightmare. Seems like only a CRS or washing in the evening or in a garage can help avoid it.
 
David have you tried any chemical spot removers on the spots yet? My can can nailed by a sprinkler and CG Water Spot Remover took them right off....I thought for sure it had etched into the coating!
 
That looks impressive but after how long after application was this taken?



I have a similar dilemma as yakky. I use ONR as my main wash and I'm pretty sure after a couple of washed the beading/sheeting will drop due to the polymers in ONR.
 
Interesting question from the OP and responses so far. I find DF's response a very balanced and realistic one.



For me it all boils down to 'do I want one-off protection and then just minimal maintainance until the next top up with OC or to keep on using all my detailing stuff for maximum visual impact?



Living in a country with *a lot* of sunshine and a city with serious environmental fallout capacity having protection from OC type products that *do the job* is definitely a consideration. A few clarifications from those in the know would be useful.



* Polishing removes OC. Is that true even for light polishing (think LC white + any finishing polish). Does the plan 'polish lightly once a year and then top up with OC' sound logical?

* LSP's dont stick. Does this mean that even on a monthly LSP top up regime the LSP wouldn't offer it's look enhancement potential? What about QD's?

* UV performance. It may be my English, but *to me* a product 'being UV resistant' is different to a product 'offering UV protection' to whatever is underneath it.



I thank in advance anyone offering thoughts/clarification.
 
* Polishing removes OC. Is that true even for light polishing (think LC white + any finishing polish). Does the plan 'polish lightly once a year and then top up with OC' sound logical?



From what I understand about this product that’s true



* LSP's dont stick. Does this mean that even on a monthly LSP top up regime the LSP wouldn't offer it's look enhancement potential? What about QD's?



Once Opti-Coat cures, it will repel most everything even fresh Opti-Coat resin. If you have to recoat a section, you will have to polish the entire panel first with Optimum Polish or Optimum Finish. Then, you will need to wipe the panel down with a damp microfiber towel to remove any residue before reapplying Opti-Coat 2.0 to the entire panel.



* UV performance. It may be my English, but *to me* a product 'being UV resistant' is different to a product 'offering UV protection' to whatever is underneath it.



a) To provide viable ultra violet protection, it is necessary to utilize effective, active chemical agents called ultra violet (UV) stabilizers or absorbers. These are part of the clear coat paint system provided to protect the paint matrix.



b) Some products are ‘UV resistant’ and provide a sacrificial barrier only, this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it



Dependent upon the chemicals used and the way they are applied (a) a part of the clear coat or (b) a part of a specific product (often in a spray like 303 Space Protectant, etc)

 
Ch96067 said:
Interesting question from the OP and responses so far. I find DF's response a very balanced and realistic one.



For me it all boils down to 'do I want one-off protection and then just minimal maintainance until the next top up with OC or to keep on using all my detailing stuff for maximum visual impact?



Living in a country with *a lot* of sunshine and a city with serious environmental fallout capacity having protection from OC type products that *do the job* is definitely a consideration. A few clarifications from those in the know would be useful.



* Polishing removes OC. Is that true even for light polishing (think LC white + any finishing polish). Does the plan 'polish lightly once a year and then top up with OC' sound logical?

* LSP's dont stick. Does this mean that even on a monthly LSP top up regime the LSP wouldn't offer it's look enhancement potential? What about QD's?

* UV performance. It may be my English, but *to me* a product 'being UV resistant' is different to a product 'offering UV protection' to whatever is underneath it.





I thank in advance anyone offering thoughts/clarification.
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Chris from Optimum said that you can apply an LSP over OC but that it wouldn't last very long. He also said that the appearance of the LSP will be what you see.
 
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