tips on using 3M SMR and PPCL

B

Bluedog

New member
im gona be using the 3m SMR for lighter cars next week alogn with PPCL as part of my usrface prep before my first zaino application. just wanted to see if there are any tricks or dos/donts with these products to get maximum results. i only use hands, no mechanical buffers by the way.



also, i a side question. i know u should move ur hand from bumper to bumper on the top sides of the car when doing anything at all that touches the paint. same thing with the side panels but with a up and down motion. but what about the quarter panels or flares? are those conisderd side panels where u should move ur hand up and down? i know its not significantly important what u do but just wanted to know. thanks!
 
Ng - look at http://autopia-carport.com/forum/showthread.php3?s=&threadid=4141

I haven't had much luck with 3M SMR by hand - I think it needs a lot of working to diminish the abrasives. If you don't really work it, it will leave your surface hazy. This will be filled by a polish or glaze of course, but it will still be there.

If you must do it by hand, I would definitely use a foam pad, and I would still try to start with a heavy pressure and then diminish as the other article suggests.


As for flares - if they're more vertical, up and down. If they're more horizontal, then fore and aft. This isn't critical. The idea is to align the scratches with the most likely reflected light to minimize their appearance.
 
I just finished a most pleasant experience with just this combo, my new PC and 3M SMR for Dark finishes.



What a pleasure. The whole top of my Mustang reflects like a mirror and it wasn't hard to do. This is my first experience in professional detailing. It's a brand new PC on a brand new car and I was able to approach it confidently without risk of harm to the finish.



I'm no expert, but here are some tidbits I picked up:

1) Put the quarter-sized dollup of SMR on the pad about midway to the center. Then smear it along the direction of the arc into the pad. This way you get no splatter.

2) Put the PC on the car and turn it on and press fairly well to disperse the SMR onto the finish. It doesn't polish faster or deeper that way. It just disperses it more fully and in a more controlled manner.

3) Continue the pressure until all the SMR is dispersed and move across your work, never repeating the same pass twice.

4) When the SMR starts to dry, it will start breaking up into a bead-like paste. That's when the polish is actually doing its work. Work it out to a thin film. It'll finish drying quickly and then you have to stop.

5) You can then wait for it to dry completely before toweling off the remaining SMR film.

6) If it's not a clean enough result, do it again the same way until it's the way you want it. If it won't come clean in one application, there is no way to modify the technique to get it done quicker. You just do the same thing again and again until your blemishes are gone. There will be no haze left after a clean toweling. If there is, you just didn't buff it out with a clean area of the towel.

7) Lastly, when you're working on the top surfaces, drape the cord over your shoulder so the cord does not contact the side of your car. No need to make more work for yourself.

8) And, as silly as it seems....BE VERY VERY CAREFUL TO HOLD THE PC SECURELY. If you drop it on the vehicle, which might not be too hard, you're really going to be sorry. Two hands at all times and don't whip the cord around in a rush.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by 01GTCOUPE [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I just finished a most pleasant experience with just this combo, my new PC and 3M SMR for Dark finishes.

What a pleasure. The whole top of my Mustang reflects like a mirror and it wasn't hard to do. This is my first experience in professional detailing. It's a brand new PC on a brand new car and I was able to approach it confidently without risk of harm to the finish.

I'm no expert, but here are some tidbits I picked up:
1) Put the quarter-sized dollup of SMR on the pad about midway to the center. Then smear it along the direction of the arc into the pad. This way you get no splatter.
2) Put the PC on the car and turn it on and press fairly well to disperse the SMR onto the finish. It doesn't polish faster or deeper that way. It just disperses it more fully and in a more controlled manner.
3) Continue the pressure until all the SMR is dispersed and move across your work, never repeating the same pass twice.
4) When the SMR starts to dry, it will start breaking up into a bead-like paste. That's when the polish is actually doing its work. Work it out to a thin film. It'll finish drying quickly and then you have to stop.
5) You can then wait for it to dry completely before toweling off the remaining SMR film.
6) If it's not a clean enough result, do it again the same way until it's the way you want it. If it won't come clean in one application, there is no way to modify the technique to get it done quicker. You just do the same thing again and again until your blemishes are gone. There will be no haze left after a clean toweling. If there is, you just didn't buff it out with a clean area of the towel.
7) Lastly, when you're working on the top surfaces, drape the cord over your shoulder so the cord does not contact the side of your car. No need to make more work for yourself.
8) And, as silly as it seems....BE VERY VERY CAREFUL TO HOLD THE PC SECURELY. If you drop it on the vehicle, which might not be too hard, you're really going to be sorry. Two hands at all times and don't whip the cord around in a rush. [/b]</blockquote>
I can't wait to get my PC and try this on the Maxima. :D
 
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