Tips on cleaning around emblems?

2StepsAhead

New member
I usually wrap a mf towel around a toothbrush end or something, but my Forester has what looks like years of scratches and gunk around them...any secrets/tools that I can clean up the paint around them? I know I can't get any swirl removal that close to them but I guess I'll settle for cleaning out dirt and dried wax.
 
You can get swirls out. You just have to do it by hand.



If I do need to get dirt/wax residue from emblems crevices. I usually use a boars hair brush.
 
2StepsAhead said:
I'll settle for cleaning out dirt and dried wax.



this works pretty good (discontinued but you can still find them), just make sure to spray some QD and use this lightly. well worth the few dollars it costs...

3160YSNVDGL._AA280_.jpg
 
BigAl3 said:
this works pretty good (discontinued but you can still find them), just make sure to spray some QD and use this lightly. well worth the few dollars it costs...

3160YSNVDGL._AA280_.jpg



Where do you find that brush, can you get it locally or something similar locally that would work just the same.
 
Now won't using brushing cause more swirls? My subaru paint is buttery soft, I used poli-seal on a white pad and it cut 90% of the swirls, I think found some water etching that I thought I could wipe off and if I used any sort of pressure it would make swirls with a mf towel.
 
2StepsAhead said:
Now won't using brushing cause more swirls?



It does IME. I'd sure CD-test and such tool before I touch paint with it.



I pull the cotton wool off the end of a Q-tip (or use a woman's makeup ball) and work it in the tight spots with a sharpened wooden swab stick. Gotta be careful not to let the stick gouge the paint.



I use the same approach with some polish to correct marring in these areas. This can take a long, long time.



Sometimes you can use a very plush MF instead of the cotton wool.



The only brushes I've ever used (that's used *DRY*, that's important as naural fibers will get soft when wet but then won't get the residue out very well) that didn't mar were weird synthetic ones sold by TOL in the early '90s. Been off the market for ages :( Any other brush mars paint for me, and (especially when viewed under magnification) the marring is often pretty severe.



You could try a wet BHB, but it just never works all that well for me :nixweiss Make sure the BHB is so wet that the bristles have gone limp and only let the tips of the bristles touch the paint (not the sides/shafts of the bristles).
 
jesselyons2002 said:
Where do you find that brush, can you get it locally or something similar locally that would work just the same.



i found it locally at a detail supply shop near me, but they don't have them anymore because they're discontinued, as is the whole gold class accessory line. you can still find them online, just type in "meguiars triple duty detail brush" in the google search...



p.s. you can try this, take a soft toothbrush and cut a few rows and then you'll have one row to use that is similiar to the bottom half of this brush... :)
 
jesselyons2002 said:
Where do you find that brush, can you get it locally or something similar locally that would work just the same.



i found it locally at a detail supply shop near me, but they don't carry them anymore because they're discontinued, as is the whole gold class accessory line. you can still find them online, just type in "meguiars triple duty detail brush" in the google search...



p.s. you can try this, take a soft toothbrush and cut a few rows and then you'll have one row to use that is similiar to the bottom half of this brush (same concept)...
 
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