Tie Browning

Not all polymers would be effected by water...granted the Klasse could be and probably is, since it is said to not get it wet right away. But some polymers are benefited by water because the oxygen speeds up the cure. And with most polymers, 80-90 percent of the cure would probably be done as soon as it's dry. But if the cure is initiated by air, the water would all but stop the cure, just on the fact that it blocks the air...Ron, this all depends on the polymer, and I think the old theory still holds.
 
Read the instructions on any quality sealant and see if any state in those instructions to apply water to the product in order to attain a cure.



Well, do you know of any?



Does anyone?



We are not talking bottles or parts here, but a liquified coating that is spread over another coating in order to create a higher level of gloss and, hopefully, some anti-corossive qualities.



That is the key.



:bounce
 
The only products that I have seen that mention ANYTHING about "curing"...besides Zaino...are Liquid Glass and Finish First. Liquid Glass talks about "baking in the sun for 4 or more hours before applying another coat". Finish First says,"Allow FINISH FIRST to "cure" a minimum of 1 hour to overnight before removing. This important step allows for maximum durability as will as filling of fine scratches and swirl marks. During the curing phase, there is no such thing as "too long", but we recommend a minimum of 1 hour." This is confusing; seems like they are mixing up curing and drying.



No products that I have seen instruct to spray with water to "make it cure" and no products have warnings that exposure to water within the first 24 hours will have any ill effects regarding bonding.



If moisture causes problems than I am in big trouble because it is a rarity that I don't come out and find my car covered with a layer of dew in the morning.



In the old days when I used IHG and Gliptone Wet wax I would sometimes spray ice water over a freshly applied wax layer...i.e sort of like using a quick detailer now...(at that time there were no quick detail products on the market). It was supposed to increase the shine and appeared to.
 
Geez,.............and all I wanted to do is keep the salt of my truck!

So the co-polymers will continue to link till a chainstopper is added, correct? And the solvent is only used to liquify the solids to a liquid state so we can apply it to the finish of our vehicle, correct?

Then if we then apply something on the polymer after it's on the vehicle, will that start the cross linking again?

In other words is there something that we can apply to cure or harden the polymer all the way through, after it's on the vehicle, or will the bottom of the coating still remain semi-liquid?

Or will just air drying do the same for the polymer, that is, to harden it all the way through?

And what would happen if we apply say a carnauba to the top of the polymer? Does that slow the curing process, does it affect it at all, or does it protect the polymer?



Very interesting thread! Enjoy!
 
Okay, I have the solution.



Apply your coat of Klasse SG, then log on and read this thread, really try to read it, then buff it off. :D
 
If I'm not mistaken, on the directions on this site...it says to use quick detailer spray to buff the SG off, do u do this? If so, wouldn't that have the same effect as water?
 
Yes it does have the same effect. Quick detailers have lubricants that may make it easier. Even though I use this technique, it worries me that spraying water or QD SG would remove most of what you just applied.
 
That all that I know about polymers does not necessarly apply to this application...However the cheap (polymer?) NuFinish...I don't know if anyone has used this, but it is rather hard to buff of as well, is Klasse so hard to buff of that the QD is necessary?
 
My experience is that if you let it dry for about ten minutes you better be ready for a work out if you don't use water or a QD. Someone posted that if you let it dry fully like for an hour or overnight it is easier to remove. I have tried the Finish2000 which is the same formulation as NuFinish and I would say Klasse is just as difficult. Old style polymer formulas like Klasse or NuFinish are a pain. I hear Zaino is real easy.

Meguiars #20 polymer sealant is a good protector. My car beaded for a couple months using this stuff and it is always outside. It is easy to use and the bottle has many applications in it. Gave a great shine. Lot less work than Klasse.
 
Finish2000 is a Turtle Wax product while NuFinish is manufacturered by Reed-Union.



The NuFinish liquid cleans and will wipe off easier than the Turtle Wax product.



NuFinish Liquid also has a higher polymer content, about 3 to 4 % by volume than the Finish2000 as well.



At least according to my head chemist in Buffalo, Randy.



:cool:
 
Klasse is not that easy to get good results. Us new users of Klasse are getting very confused on how to use this product. There is no definite solution to applying Klasse after reading discussions on Klasse. Is Klasse a big mystery that fellow autopians can't solve? I'm a newbie to detailing so obviously I can't solve the problems we have with Klasse. Where is the inventor of Klasse when we need him? :bounce
 
The AIO is almost fool proof. The SG takes a little rubbing but I have not had any problems with it coming off. If you have trouble simply mist it with water and then wipe off. Use cotton towels for removal and that may aid as well. VERY FEW people here have problems with Klasse. Just remember to put it on in thin coats and let it dry completely. Approx. 30 minutes. If you're a newbie I wouldn't bother with this thread yet unless your parole hearing doesn't come up for a few weeks. Pick one of the recommended solutions on this board and go for it. You can't go wrong with most of the recommendations here.
 
I'm hardly the person to ask..but this group is really helpful...you said you have problems getting good results...be more specific...someone will help you...what r your problems...etc....
 
Koy, one of the problems I had with KSG is not only is it difficult to buff off, but it's so darn hard to see on my silver Honda Civic. I have to bend over and look at my car and search for the perfect reflective angle with the light on all parts of the car to make sure there aren't any places that I missed. It's not quite so bad on my wife's bimmer which is black, but on my Honda, I just don't feel comfortable that I've finished an area in which that sometimes elusive visible angle is difficult to attain because I feel as if I'm buffing "blindly". Sure enough, later in the week I almost always see an area that I missed. Furthermore, I don't feel comfortable using a damp cloth or QD to wipe off KSG because of the questionable effects of water on a freshly applied coat.



Obviously you don't have the same problems I do and Klasse provides a great shine. But for me, I do have problems with buffing it off and there are just too many unanswered questions about attaining its maximum potential.
 
My ranger is gold. It is a little easier to see but not a lot. I wouldn't be worried about using water to buff it off. It is not gonna create a problem. I have been using meguiars #34 to buff it off over a year and haven't seen one adverse side effect. If anything it makes it look better. You are going to be rubbing blindly. With that color you are going to be rubbing blindly whether you use Klasse, Blitz, 3m, P21s, or zaino. Its the nature of the beast.
 
well.. my WRX is silver also..and I don't experience any difficulty in buffing both AIO and KSG with MF towels (I use Vipers)

sometimes I use QD (Eagle one or FI) sometimes not...I think QD makes it look slightly better if not it makes it easier to buff off the residue...





like many people here have said, try to work on every single panel at a time I found this to be the most helpful tip...:)
 
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