Thinking about Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic Jett, kinda confused about Prime though

SVR said:
I believe it's a chemical polish that enhances the finish of your paint after doing a two to four step correction. It removes the oils that are left by 106FF and others (which hinder sealant durability) and leaves behind a ultra wet looking glassy protective layer that the AJT will adhere too and therefore last longer.



My preference is to machine the prime with my rotary with a heat softened edge white or LC Eurotech blue pad.

best I've used is a 50/50 mix of prime carnauba and acrylic and working it in until it dissappears. I usually add 200mph paint reflection enhancer spray onto the panel before I start the machine as prime is very dry and will hologram if you work it too long.



In some cases (my car especially), this will cause orange peel to be hidden almost completely by the layer of prime and stay hidden until you polish with an abrasive again.



In the past I've added FK 2180 and other sealants onto a menz RD finished paint and gotten crappy durability

Due to this I never finish with 106FF. It's always prime, driven or ultra gloss.
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I remember reading this post of yours about prime - "I tell ya what, prime acrylic sure does take some paint off.

Have been tinkering with a single stage red falcon for the past few weeks and when I used acrylic with edge white pad, it took more paint off than clearkote VM or even blackfire SRC 3000. Pad was saturated with paint whereas VM just has the centre of the pad spotted with red flakes.

It's like I polished it with a 2000 grit polish and edge green"



Was it due to excessive oxidation or what?
 
I can tell you from experience that AJ goes on smoother and easier over Prime or AIO than Optimum Polish. Prime leaves the paint very slick so AJ glides on over it.



You don't have to use it, the only requirement for applying AJ is that the surface be properly prepped. However, it has been my experience you get the best results and ease of use using AJ over Prime or AIO.
 
You have all convinced me that it would be a good move to go ahead and buy Prime.



Now the question is:

Which Prime should i buy?
 
Coupe said:
You have all convinced me that it would be a good move to go ahead and buy Prime.



Now the question is:

Which Prime should i buy?
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Convinced me too. I ordered Prime and AJT. From reading JW's site it would seem that Prime Acrylic was designed for people who wanted to only do one step and were ONLY going to use prime and not top it off with AJ or AJT. It's kind of an all in one. But it can be used as a base for AJ or AJT for added protection.



Strong has more cut if needed.



I'm going to be using AJT on top so I didn't get Prime Acrylic and I also don't want any cut from the Prime (I'll use polish if I need to do any correction).
 
Mr. Clean ... I made a line of surf clothing for a decade and some of the fabrics we used were Microfiber (woven, which makes a helluva wipe-off cloth) and Polartec in a variety of configurations. I made some buffing pads from sweatshirt-weight Polartec. If you have an old 7" foam pad, send me a PM with your address, I'll send you one.



j i m
 
Sardian said:
Convinced me too. I ordered Prime and AJT. From reading JW's site it would seem that Prime Acrylic was designed for people who wanted to only do one step and were ONLY going to use prime and not top it off with AJ or AJT. It's kind of an all in one. But it can be used as a base for AJ or AJT for added protection.



Strong has more cut if needed.



I'm going to be using AJT on top so I didn't get Prime Acrylic and I also don't want any cut from the Prime (I'll use polish if I need to do any correction).
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Im still unsure what prime i should get.
 
I say, if you are unsure, go with Prime. It is the most balanced and least aggressive of all of them. However, it still has very good cleansing power because it is the equivalent of Pre-VOC AIO.



I went with Prime and AJT. If I need something more powerful I will go ahead and buy Prime Strong. I will see how the JW products work for me first.



I am still unsure if I should of got the Prime Strong or Prime Acrylic but I think if you ARE UNSURE get Prime - it makes the most sense.



Prime Strong does have cut - enough so that JW reccomends "regular use" as every 2-4 months.
 
Sardian said:
I'm going to be using AJT on top so I didn't get Prime Acrylic and I also don't want any cut from the Prime (I'll use polish if I need to do any correction).
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FYI, according to Jeff Werkstatt to whom I spoke moment ago Prime Acrylic has less cleaning power than Prime and would be good for scenario when one will achieve cleaning by some other means first.
 
Wetstuff said:
I made some buffing pads from sweatshirt-weight Polartec.
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Jim, just quickly (not to hijack the thread) what would be advantage of buffing with Polartec when compared to buffing with micro-fiber or, even better, micro-suede?
 
Prime: Strong has the same amount of acrylic as Prime: Acrylic yet it also has more polish agents that Prime: Acrylic doesn't have.
 
BMW335i said:
Prime: Strong has the same amount of acrylic as Prime: Acrylic yet it also has more polish agents that Prime: Acrylic doesn't have.
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Compared to regular Prime, from the JEFFS Werkstatts website Prime Strong is described:



It employs both more acrylic polymers for better durability and protection and also an incrementally stronger polishing agent to address more paint imperfections.
 
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