The ultimate rush for those who have ever surfed.....

A

a.k.a. Patrick

New member
Im at this website a couple times a week looking at local surf reports and updated videos of one of my favorite pastimes. Although not the aggressive punk I use to be 15-20 years ago, (matter of fact, I rarely even get to the shoreline nowadays unless we're camping for a week or so with the travel trailer) I still get goosebumps when the surfs up, and I even know about it. I have a friend who lives at "shores" a.k.a. "The Strand", who still updates me of the Pacific swells when theyre over 8-10'. That place nearly killed me 18 years ago in almost nearly identical conditions.....days like that you never- ever forget.

For those of you who have never witnessed life, from the

inside, out"...this is for you. Its also for those land lockers who who dont get there often enough either......Iknow theres a few of you here in So Cal who can relate.....

Check it out, then wax it up if ya dare. I know it will be running through your head after you view this......

I love the music also!!!
 
i still remember the two weeks of the insane surf here in so cal....one week in september when all the fires were happening...6-8' and offshore winds = 3+ hour surf session with any wave I wanted at HB (and I hate surfing HB, but it was absolutely perfect and I was getting in and outs on almost every wave)



and also when I surfed newport with about 40 guys on 3 peaks that were all connecting between the jetties! Epic day to say the least, just wish there were less people in the water to make it more fun. and I didnt travel further south to a semi secluded spot where there might have been only a handful of people out soley because I didnt want to show up without my friends, who were locals down there, because of the other locals who tried to claim the beach as theirs...EL MORRO!!!! By far my favorite place to surf, and while I was out at newport that day, ELMO was firing bigger, faster and cleaner with only 6 people on it....stupid decision on my part for sure...
 
AKA and toyo lucky bast**d's, surfing an such. envious is right, from a canadian boy.

Concrete Blonde caroline brings back many memories, more pool hall daze than surfing, but
 
I've lived in SoCal close to the beach most of my life and I've probably swam in the ocean only 2 or 3 times when I was a kid. I've always been grossed out by the uncleanliness and overcrowding of most our beaches.



If I lived in Hawaii on the other hand, I probably would have taken up surfing as their beaches are beautiful. Their waves are unreal too, nothing like what we're used to seeing over here. Plus, those shrimp trucks alongside the road are da bomb!
 
Look at my screen name :2thumbs:



My unlce lives out in Hawaii, actually next door to one of the Metallica guys...can't remember which one but whomever it is surfs. My uncles gone out with Laird and the other big timers, me, sorry...Mavericks/Jaws/Pipeline are off limits...I don't have a suicide wish :grinno:



long live Mike Parsons

YouTube - Mike Parsons ride a monster wave
 
BlackElantraGT said:
I've probably swam in the ocean only 2 or 3 times when I was a kid. I've always been grossed out by the uncleanliness and overcrowding of most our beaches.
Click to expand...



same here. when i was little i remember walking into the ocean and stepping on a stingray (also dead fish in the ocean), and i'll never forget the gross feeling that i felt on my feet and not to mention how dirty it was...
 
Wow those videos are amazing, espeically that Mike Parsons one. I would crap a brick if I saw that wave near me. Definatly a cool art.



On the ocean note, I love being near it but I hate it when saltwater gets up my nose haha.
 
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