salty
Active member
Don't chew gum, while brushing the carpet, with an open mouth. LOL
the 'little tricks you've learned' thread
- Thread starter wizardofahs
- Start date
YourOnlySin
New member
Coffee filters make great, cheap, lint free wipes and they work fantastically on glass and mirrors. They only cost a couple of bucks for a hundred or more, so its easy to keep them in the shop. I've also used a coffee filter and an iron on low heat to remove melted crayon from interior carpet and upholstery. Just place the filter over the waxy mess then run a low heat iron over it. The filter should wick up most of the waxy crayon.
imported_01GreyStangGT1
New member
Mr. Clean Magic Erasers work for getting wax or polish residue off of textured black plastic.
Of course, taping the trim makes it not get on it at all.
Of course, taping the trim makes it not get on it at all.
Just went through the whole thread, some great tips thanks guys!
Just wanted to mention that IMO when at the "2 bucket wash" part of your wash you should wash the car form the top down. So start with the roof, front and rear windshield (rinse), then rear trunk/hatch down to top of bumper and all side windows (rinse), then hood and front fenders (rinse), now the doors and rear quarter panels (rinse and repeat for the other side), now the rear bumper (rinse), and finally do the front bumper. IMO the front bumper is where the most dirt and contaminates will be and I wouldn't want it done first because you are more likely to carry the particles along for the rest of the wash causing scratches.
Note: 9/10 times I am washing coupes (my own coupe or customers) sedans may need more rinses down between panels........just a judgment call I guess
Just wanted to mention that IMO when at the "2 bucket wash" part of your wash you should wash the car form the top down. So start with the roof, front and rear windshield (rinse), then rear trunk/hatch down to top of bumper and all side windows (rinse), then hood and front fenders (rinse), now the doors and rear quarter panels (rinse and repeat for the other side), now the rear bumper (rinse), and finally do the front bumper. IMO the front bumper is where the most dirt and contaminates will be and I wouldn't want it done first because you are more likely to carry the particles along for the rest of the wash causing scratches.
Note: 9/10 times I am washing coupes (my own coupe or customers) sedans may need more rinses down between panels........just a judgment call I guess
LeMarque
New member
When cleaning/conditioning - Never use a stiff bristle brush on a fabric convertible top. It will tear the fibers.
brownbob06
New member
Don't know if its been mentioned or not yet, but when doing glass if its particularly full of crap and water spots that won't come off with glass cleaner I use megs plastx and polish with a MF towel until its pretty much dry then buff off with a clean mf towel. Great finish with no streaks or water spots. Only on the outside though. I'm sure it will scratch the heck out of tint.
Concourswanna b
New member
LMBmikeZ said:
That's the order i follow as well.
Upper doors before hood though.
3 mitts, for different lattitudes of the car.
I always get the old "rinse water bucket becomes as soapy as the soap bucket" though.
I'm thinking of going back to using my second bucket as replacement soapwater for when the first needs changed, instead of the trad. two bucket way.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Concourswanna b said:
I use a big spring-clamp on my rinse buckets so I can easily keep track of which is which.
If your rinse/"second" bucket's water gets dirty, and I suspect that most people's rinse water does, then I wouldn't try that.
And I'm a bit
here...why would your "first" bucket's water need changed? It's the shampoo mix, right?
Nth Degree
New member
Accumulator said:
That's not a bad idea. I just use two different color buckets. Gray is rinse/dirty and white is soap/clean.
Concourswanna b
New member
Accumulator said:
I like that idea.
Accumulator said:
I probably didn't say that very clearly...:doh Sure, the rinse water would not be a good substitute for the wash water. I guess I meant to say "just use a one-bucket method, but have a second reserve bucket of suds ready for whenever I feel the first bucket is somehow contaminated." With this method, the mitt would be rinsed out well and often with the hose.
Maybe I need to ring out the mitt more after rinsing when using the two-bucket way.
Accumulator said:And I'm a bit
Well, I do notice a higher degree of liquid loss with the lamb’s wool mitts, vs. the old days of the grout sponge. I found those to be faster, but I swear I noticed a little marring. I love the waschpudel, but I see slight, slight, slight marring with it, as well.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Finish Kare FK 1000P
Use a dampened, soft applicator pad with a very light pressure and spread product thinly and evenly. Leave Finish Kare FK1000P for a few minutes (apply to 2-3 panels before removing. Spritz the paint surface with Finish Kare FK#425 and then remove with a clean applicator, this will cut down on any product dusting and finally buff surface with a clean dry towel
Use a dampened, soft applicator pad with a very light pressure and spread product thinly and evenly. Leave Finish Kare FK1000P for a few minutes (apply to 2-3 panels before removing. Spritz the paint surface with Finish Kare FK#425 and then remove with a clean applicator, this will cut down on any product dusting and finally buff surface with a clean dry towel
Accumulator
Well-known member
Concourswanna B- OK, that cleared up some of my confusion. But eh, I suspect I just approach this stuff too differently...I can't imagine *ever* letting an unrinsed/soiled wash mitt/sponge/brush/etc. get into my shampoo mix lest it contaminate it. I make sure all my wash media are completely clean before they go back into that bucket, and not that due to my wash technique my wash media stay so clean that my *rinse* water is usually perfectly clean at the end of a wash (even when I do a winter-filthy vehicle).
To add one of mine:
When you're doing a task that involves a spray bottle in one hand and a towel or something else in the other, keep your finger off the spray trigger. For some reason I involuntarily spray the bottle sometimes and it gets on things it isn't supposed to. So just hold the bottle without your finger on the trigger.
When you're doing a task that involves a spray bottle in one hand and a towel or something else in the other, keep your finger off the spray trigger. For some reason I involuntarily spray the bottle sometimes and it gets on things it isn't supposed to. So just hold the bottle without your finger on the trigger.
Saurabh14673
New member
P21 S GEPC works wonders on removing hard water spots from the windscreen.
Very effective in removing dried ONR stains. Found out the hard way when out of station and was without clay & KAIO.
Very effective in removing dried ONR stains. Found out the hard way when out of station and was without clay & KAIO.
Nth Degree
New member
01GreyStangGT said:
A simple pink eraser from the school supplies isle works wonders for that too.
RarasHouseOfWax
New member
<span style="font-size:14px;">Best wax residue remover for trim: <u> Creamy Peanut Butter</u>
Seriously, it works better and lasts longer than 99% of the "trim restorers" out there. Just use a rag or junk MF to apply it, (put the towel around a few fingers and scoop a little peanut butter out of the jar), wipe or rub it into the trim and then just wipe it off. If the trim has any texture to it, an old toothbrush is a handy tool to knock out wax residue. Try it...it works and its delicious
Seriously, it works better and lasts longer than 99% of the "trim restorers" out there. Just use a rag or junk MF to apply it, (put the towel around a few fingers and scoop a little peanut butter out of the jar), wipe or rub it into the trim and then just wipe it off. If the trim has any texture to it, an old toothbrush is a handy tool to knock out wax residue. Try it...it works and its delicious
MiVor
New member
Although this may seem to work, it's likely the peanut oil that's doing the trick, but as an organic oil, it will go rancid...but perhaps wears off before that? I like Stoners Trim Shine...or the UV protection of 303 Aerospace Protectant.Best wax residue remover for trim: Creamy Peanut Butter
Seriously, it works better and lasts longer than 99% of the "trim restorers" out there.x Just use a rag or junk MF to apply it, (put the towel around a few fingers and scoop a little peanut butter out of the jar), wipe or rub it into the trim and then just wipe it off.x If the trim has any texture to it, an old toothbrush is a handy tool to knock out wax residue.x Try it...it works and its delicious
MiVor
New member
GREAT THREAD! My $.02 off the top of my head...
Wash Method:
- Inside-->out, begin inside, remove any debris. If dusty, optionally open all doors and blow out with a leaf blower. Vacuum carpet mats, then remove mats and vacuum carpet. Clean interior glass. Clean/Treat dash, console, doors and such. Clean carpets (extraction is best) and cloth seats as required. Clean door jams and treat rubber door seals.
Wash vehicle top down either 2 bucket or ONR. Wheels and wells are always last. Don't forget rocker panels that curl under and open/clean gas filler area. If wet wash, use leaf blower to dry. Clean exterior windshield and windows. Top with a spray wax, or clay, polish, 'wax' as desired.
- ONR wash method: Mix 2+ oz. ONR with water in a quart spray bottle. Fill a 2 gal bucket with clean hot/warm water. Soak a waffle weave towel and wring out. Top down, spray panel, wipe with wet ww towel, then dry with clean MF towel. Turn WW towel and rinse as necessary. (above mixture also good for quick detail, bird droppings, clay lube).
- For cleaning fabric seats and headliner, use diluted liquid laundry detergent in a spray bottle (it's made for cleaning fabrics). spray lightly and wipe with clean MF towel and/or extract.
- For cleaning glass, Stoners Invisible Glass is great.
- Clean and clay the windshield. Coat with Rainx OR a spray wax (I like DG Aquawax).
- For treating and protecting plastic/vinyl/rubber (inside and out) 303 Aerospace Protectant. Works well on tires too...spray, swipe with a paint brush and walk away - results in a nice black, satin finish.
- Optional: 303 Fabric Guard for carpet mats, carpets, cloth seats (clean well first!)
- Don't be 'afraid' to use Simple Green. It gets an unwarranted bad rap because somebody left it way too long on soft aluminum and there was some etching. SG is a good APC, environmentally safe, and made in the USA! Dilute as the job requires 10:1 for light cleaning - 4:1 moderate cleaning - full strength for wheels/wells and engine bays (For aluminum, rinse within 10 minutes dwell or so)
- Always allow cleaners to dwell some before brushing/scrubbing/rinsing - but don't let them dry out! (it's like soaking the pots 'n pans).
- Remember that most household cleaners work equally well in the car and typically cost less than "auto designer products".
Wash Method:
- Inside-->out, begin inside, remove any debris. If dusty, optionally open all doors and blow out with a leaf blower. Vacuum carpet mats, then remove mats and vacuum carpet. Clean interior glass. Clean/Treat dash, console, doors and such. Clean carpets (extraction is best) and cloth seats as required. Clean door jams and treat rubber door seals.
Wash vehicle top down either 2 bucket or ONR. Wheels and wells are always last. Don't forget rocker panels that curl under and open/clean gas filler area. If wet wash, use leaf blower to dry. Clean exterior windshield and windows. Top with a spray wax, or clay, polish, 'wax' as desired.
- ONR wash method: Mix 2+ oz. ONR with water in a quart spray bottle. Fill a 2 gal bucket with clean hot/warm water. Soak a waffle weave towel and wring out. Top down, spray panel, wipe with wet ww towel, then dry with clean MF towel. Turn WW towel and rinse as necessary. (above mixture also good for quick detail, bird droppings, clay lube).
- For cleaning fabric seats and headliner, use diluted liquid laundry detergent in a spray bottle (it's made for cleaning fabrics). spray lightly and wipe with clean MF towel and/or extract.
- For cleaning glass, Stoners Invisible Glass is great.
- Clean and clay the windshield. Coat with Rainx OR a spray wax (I like DG Aquawax).
- For treating and protecting plastic/vinyl/rubber (inside and out) 303 Aerospace Protectant. Works well on tires too...spray, swipe with a paint brush and walk away - results in a nice black, satin finish.
- Optional: 303 Fabric Guard for carpet mats, carpets, cloth seats (clean well first!)
- Don't be 'afraid' to use Simple Green. It gets an unwarranted bad rap because somebody left it way too long on soft aluminum and there was some etching. SG is a good APC, environmentally safe, and made in the USA! Dilute as the job requires 10:1 for light cleaning - 4:1 moderate cleaning - full strength for wheels/wells and engine bays (For aluminum, rinse within 10 minutes dwell or so)
- Always allow cleaners to dwell some before brushing/scrubbing/rinsing - but don't let them dry out! (it's like soaking the pots 'n pans).
- Remember that most household cleaners work equally well in the car and typically cost less than "auto designer products".