the 'little tricks you've learned' thread
- Thread starter wizardofahs
- Start date
The Wraith
New member
A second set of eyes will always reveal what you may have missed...
imported_dirtdiggler
New member
Another new trick is to use Megs D101 APC (green) diluted 10:1 as a Clay lube.. I discovered this last week when using Clay magic and I ran out of the CM supplied lube. What I discovered was that Megs actually removed rail dust on my white 07 MB C230ss better and faster than the CM lube.
wouldrichest
New member
Intel486 said:
there are alot of post using simple greem or Hi-Intensity Cleaner or some other cleaners for wheels. I use them on "badly-rusted" wheels and they never take it all off....i follow with good old fashioned Brillo pads...and that finsihes them....I little elbow-grease never hurt.
DaGonz
Autopia fire/rescue.
When washing your car.. start with the wheel wells, then clean the tires and wheel assemblies using the 2 bucket method.
Once the tires and wheels are done, mix up another solution of car wash shampoo and rise water.
I follow the natural airflow of the vehicle and wash one panel at a time and in a straight line. My method is to start with the hood, the move to the windshield, roof, backlight and trunk lid.I then go to the front grille area, left front fender and move my way down to the rear quarter, then do the same with the passenger side and finish at the rear panel.
I then remove the nozzle from the hose and use free flowing water to do the final rinse, then dry with microfiber drying towels.
Once the tires and wheels are done, mix up another solution of car wash shampoo and rise water.
I follow the natural airflow of the vehicle and wash one panel at a time and in a straight line. My method is to start with the hood, the move to the windshield, roof, backlight and trunk lid.I then go to the front grille area, left front fender and move my way down to the rear quarter, then do the same with the passenger side and finish at the rear panel.
I then remove the nozzle from the hose and use free flowing water to do the final rinse, then dry with microfiber drying towels.
brwill2005
New member
Tricks? Keep it really simple process wise. Select products that flat out work and perform. Use quality materials and top quality equipment. Have a set process that works and stick to it.
when wetsanding, dont just rip the paper with your hands. cut it.
(seems like a huge BS, huh? honestly i laughed when the old man at a training session told that. then he showed the difference. the sanding marks that the ripped paper left was 13905782357 times harder to buff out. seriously. i tred it later when i was painting a bike and found out that if you cut the paper straight it wont leave too deep sand marks like the ripped one will.)
(seems like a huge BS, huh? honestly i laughed when the old man at a training session told that. then he showed the difference. the sanding marks that the ripped paper left was 13905782357 times harder to buff out. seriously. i tred it later when i was painting a bike and found out that if you cut the paper straight it wont leave too deep sand marks like the ripped one will.)
OnTheSpotMobile
New member
S&S Detailing said:
This one caused me some grief. I tried it on a few badly neglected dealership acquisition's and the pressure washer permanently damaged the mats. It left patterns from me moving the nozzle back and forth over the mats, as well as fluffing up the carpet pile in an unusual way, making it look pretty bad. It also took longer, and it required a huge drying time compared to just using the carpet extractor lol so be careful with this one!
My tips are based on time saving:
1. When I start on an interior I like to start out with vacuuming. I spray my general interior cleaner into the cup holders on the doors, center consoles, any cubbies in the interior that collect grime and spilled drinks. I then let it sit there while I vacuum the carpets. Then I vacuum the cleaner out of all the places I've sprayed it into and 9 times out of 10 they are completely clean and grime free. Saves me from having to brush them or otherwise scrub them out.
2. I get tired of pumping spray bottles all day so I've replaced many of them with the little chemical pump-up sprayers (like the ones carried by griots). These little sprayers are just like the big pressure sprayers, only with no hose, just a nozzle. You have to pump them up to pressure initially, but you pump them a lot less than regular spray bottles, and they hold more! They save time and my hands. I use them for carpet cleaners, wheel and tire cleaner, ONR, tire gel, QD spray, etc.
My 2 cents.
Probably mentioned already but I didn't carefully scan all 13 pages:
-when buffing off cured carnauba and it's a pain to remove, carry a little mister bottle filled with distilled water (makes mist when spritzed) in your shirt pocket/apron pocket. A brief mist will help with tough lsp removals. A spray bottle sprays too much water, a mister bottle dispenses a perfect amount of water.
- clay and velveeta cheese are not interchangeagle in either direction.
-when buffing off cured carnauba and it's a pain to remove, carry a little mister bottle filled with distilled water (makes mist when spritzed) in your shirt pocket/apron pocket. A brief mist will help with tough lsp removals. A spray bottle sprays too much water, a mister bottle dispenses a perfect amount of water.
- clay and velveeta cheese are not interchangeagle in either direction.
Accumulator
Well-known member
When buffing off LSP, fog the surface with your breath. The little bit of moisture in the condensation is beneficial in several ways.
RaskyR1
Rasky's Auto Detailing
Accumulator said:
Until you pass out after doing half the car!
The best tip I have learned is to experiment with the products you have. You would be surprised how many uses a quality product if diluted at different ratios.I have been playing around with ONR a little bit it is amazing what you can do with just one product from glass to general interior clean up, somethings may need and extra wipe down. But you never know until you try, find a good product and learn what it can or can't do.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Watch for a sale on a nailing compressor, the little ones that contractor use to power nail guns.
They are compact, they are 110v and small.
Put out 100psi and cost at most places, like Harbor Frieght $60 to $70, a $15 small 50 foot hose, a couple of quick couplers and a nozzle (might as well get one to fill tires as well) and save a ton over a couple of years.
Many uses will be found once you get one.
I have a big 80 gal tank, twin cyl 13cfm, 150 psi compressor for my shop, but use the little one when doing a car under the car port. They are not heavy, so easy to get out and use.
Grumpy
They are compact, they are 110v and small.
Put out 100psi and cost at most places, like Harbor Frieght $60 to $70, a $15 small 50 foot hose, a couple of quick couplers and a nozzle (might as well get one to fill tires as well) and save a ton over a couple of years.
Many uses will be found once you get one.
I have a big 80 gal tank, twin cyl 13cfm, 150 psi compressor for my shop, but use the little one when doing a car under the car port. They are not heavy, so easy to get out and use.
Grumpy
hacadacalopolis
New member
loodi said:
There are plenty of body shop methods people wont want you to know, i think its stupid really.
Wetsanding by hand(this means blocking or freehanding), Like you said cut it, fold it to overlap so it wont come loose on you, and cross cut(Diagonal Motions) for maximum abrasion. Keep a spreader or squeege or air handy to get a visual, Constant flow of water is great for keeping it clean & avoiding pigtails, but its wasteful. Scuff pads work great for cleaning your grit paper wheter dry or wet.
Accumulator
Well-known member
RaskyR1 said:...[Fog the surface with your breath]...Until you pass out after doing half the car!
Seriously? People do sometimes mention that, but I always figure they're joking.
I mean...I did the Yukon XLD all the time and never thought anything of it :nixweiss
RaskyR1
Rasky's Auto Detailing
I assumed you were joking too! 
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Accumulator
Well-known member
RaskyR1- Heh heh, nah..I was serious! I really do fog the surface when I buff off my LSPs. Maybe it has something to do with how I find even KSG sooo easy to buff off :think:
RaskyR1
Rasky's Auto Detailing
Accumulator said:
LOL...I think if my wife walked in the garage and saw me doing that she'd leave me!
What do you feel it adds?
Accumulator
Well-known member
RaskyR1 said:LOL...I think if my wife walked in the garage and saw me doing that she'd leave me!
What do you feel it adds?
Heh heh, I bet Accumulatorette wouldn't find that in the top ten of odd stuff she's seen me do!
The little bit of moisture from the condensation seems to do a few things:
-Helps you see the LSP when you've applied it *really* thin
-Provides a little lubrication to make the buffing towel glide better
-Gives a tiny bit of...uhm...spit-shine-like effect, probably helping minimize streaking/etc. which I basically never experience
No, never experienced any downsides from that bit of moisture.
I really do think it's beneficial; every time somebody says how KSG/FK1000P/476S/[whatever] is a little hard to buff off I wonder what they're talking about as I've never experienced that even with goofy-thick applications allowed to dry for a long time.