The fear of wetsanding = OVERATED!! **56K danger**

sw20_og

New member
To make a long story short, I'm currently restoring the finish of a 1980 Benz. The car was repainted dark metallic green w/ clearcoat in 1994 but has been neglected ever since; it sat in the sun almost every day and has never been waxed. Here's an example of how it looked before I started the restoration:



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The bodyshop who did the work never wetsanded it. It has terrible orange peel especially on the side panels. Since wetsanding is the only way to remove OP, I went to my local OSH and picked up some supplies:



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After I washed the car, I first applied my rookie wetsanding skills on the hood. I soaked the paper in water for 5 minutes then attached it to a 3M sanding block. I used soapy water to lube the surface of the hood. I worked in short back and forth strokes with medium pressure. I would average 20 slow strokes before wiping down the mess to check my work. Once I no longer saw any clearcoat (little dots of clear meant OP is still left) that meant to move on to the next section.



The hood took me about 4 hours to sand down. I first started with the 1000 grit then went over again with the 2000 grit to make compoundng easier (the left side was my test section that I finished earlier):



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I then used my PC to take out the sanding marks. 3MFCRC with yellow pad on 6....lots of very slow passes and twice overs to take out all the marks.



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I then used Meguiars #9 to take out the haze left from the compounding. White pad on 6:



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I then applied one coat of Klasse AIO with the white pad on 4 (notice how it darkened the paint):



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I'm just simply amazed with the results of my first wetsand. The surface looks almost perfect...something you would expect from a Benz paintjob. Even though there is a very slight wavyness to the paint, all the bumpyness was eliminated. I couldn't get an angle shot to show how smooth the surface was after I was done because I didn't have adequate lighting...I'll post some later.



Things I learned from this:



1. Sanding is more effective when the paper is not so saturated with water. I no longer see a reason to soak the paper first. As long as I kept the surface slightly moist then the sanding was fast and effective. I just kept a bucket of water by my side to rinse the sanding block after each section.



2. The fear about wetsanding is overrated. You have to be sanding like a madmad to do damage to the paint. As long as you carefully check your work after a number of strokes then you're fine.



3. I need more practice!



Once I'm finished with the car I'll post it on the Click & Brag section.
 
Great job.



A point we have to consider also is the fact that this W123 needs serious paint correction, meaning, anything less than clearcoat removal, the chances of it ending up like what did probably is closed to nil.



If you wetsand a newer paint job that doesn't require as much abrasiveness, wetsanding will undoubtedly accelerate paint failure, something you won't see until 1-2 years after you've wetsanded the paint.



My white W123 (not OEM paint) was in horrible condition and I wetsanded it twice (1000 then 1500) then buffed it repeatedly for 2-3 weeks (once a week) and 95% of the time, people who've seen the car in its "before" state swears that I got a new paint job.



There are repurcusions (sp?) with wetsanding, the paint really thins and with clearcoat paints, oxidation occurs so much sooner than a car with clear.



Nevertheless, great job, especially when you didn't even use a rotary :)
 
Others please note: this was on a repaint--not factory!!

Less than expert wetsanding experience on factory paint is not advised!
 
Thanks for the compliments!



6318 - Thankfully this was a repaint otherwise I would have never touched it. The OP was disgusting though. I don't think any bodyshop would have allowed this kind of OP to leave it's shop. The clearcoat is very thick and it looks like I didn't reduce the thickness drastically (or even hardly).



tom p - its a 240D...84hp I believe. Very loud diesel engine but strong as a tank. The car has only had one major service since 1980. I think I can run faster than this car! hehe
 
Alot of Refinishers dry sand now. From what I've read in magazines, wet sandings day is just about over
 
I saw in one of those complete car makeovers, the guys were sanding the car. They didn't dip the sanding block/paper in buckets of water but instead they had tiny hoses with running water above the area they were working on. They said the only reason for water is to prevent the sandpaper from getting clogged.
 
Thanks again for the compliments guys...I appreciate it.



I don't know why some people don't have faith in the PC for taking out paint flaws such as the wetsanding marks. If the correct product, pads and technique are used then anything is possible. It did take quite some time to remove the sanding marks but not excruciatingly long. I guess that's why people use rotaries to cut the compounding time by a significant amount.



Hail the PC!!
 
A rotory would have saved about a half hour for just the hood alone. Think about what time that will save on the whole car.



Very nice work with the PC. It will get the job done. I am guessing it was probobly on 6 the whole time?



Now get out there and finish that baby and get us some pics!
 
Thanks Vegas, the PC on 6 during compounding and polishing is the most effective route to maximize surface gloss. At times the sound is just staight annoying.



I forsee a rotary in my detailing arsenal in the future.
 
sw20_og- Nice job, and I commend you on having faith in your abilities :xyxthumbs



I don't know why some people don't have faith in the PC for taking out paint flaws such as the wetsanding marks. If the correct product, pads and technique are used then anything is possible.



It all depends on the paint. There are some paints (such as Audi clear and ss white) that you just can't work (serious problems, I mean) with a PC, not even with RCs and a wool pad. I've spent *many* hours on a single panel with a RC/wool combo on 6; if it would've worked it would've ;) Even a rotary takes a long time on some finishes...but on other paint you can work miracles in no time, even by hand.



Please don't get me wrong, the above is in *no way* meant to diminish what you did on that Benz; that truly was a great job. I just mean that you can't generalize too much about what the PC can do.
 
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