The difference in wool and foam pads

Jean-Claude

Jean-Claude

Keeper of the beautiful
I've been using a rotary for a bout 2 months now. I have not had any issues with holograms while using the foam pads. Using a rotary is awesome, I love it!



But, at the same time I have not got the hand on using wool pads. I did a full paint correction job on a Yukon yesterday and the one panel I tried to use a wool pad on had holograms. I ended up going back and fixing it with a orange pad and putting the wool pad up.



Can someone explain the exact difference going from a foam pad to a wool pad. I would like to be proficient using one if I choose to.



Thanks guys!
 
I think you'll find alot of interesting threads here on wool pads. The main difference between wool and foam is the cutting power. Wool cuts cleaner, easier and faster. Any time you use a wool pad, you must follow with a foam pad to remove the swirls that the wool itself creates. When using each one, make sure to you use good technique to avoid additional swirling.
 
I did a search and what came up is just a general discussions of if he people like wool or not, more or less.



I could not find anything discussing how to use them compared to foam.
 
Some things to think about when using wool...



Wool is going to break down your polish alot faster than foam. You'll need to use more polish than you normally use with foam.



Your working time is usually cut down by about half with wool. If you've been getting a minute working time out of your polish, plan on about 30 seconds with wool. It's really important that you stop working the polish once it goes clear when you're using wool. If you keep buffing once your polish is clear, you'll no longer have the abrasives of the polish working the clear coat; only the wool pad, which means holograms galore. If you were to take some very slick lubricating oil and apply it to a wool pad, then buff your paint with just the lube and the wool pad, you'd get holograms like crazy with most wool pads. This is pretty much the same thing as continuing to buff once your polish goes clear.



I'm usually able to decrease the RPM when using wool. Most of the time I stay at or below 1.2k RPM. Going faster just results in more holograms and breaking the polish down *too* fast.



Make sure you're using a wool-friendly polish. The Menz line (all of them) are very wool friendly. The Optimum line is, too, with the exception of OHC. It specifically says to use foam. HiTemp's polishes work very well, too.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Some things to think about when using wool...



Wool is going to break down your polish alot faster than foam. You'll need to use more polish than you normally use with foam.



Your working time is usually cut down by about half with wool. If you've been getting a minute working time out of your polish, plan on about 30 seconds with wool. It's really important that you stop working the polish once it goes clear when you're using wool. If you keep buffing once your polish is clear, you'll no longer have the abrasives of the polish working the clear coat; only the wool pad, which means holograms galore. If you were to take some very slick lubricating oil and apply it to a wool pad, then buff your paint with just the lube and the wool pad, you'd get holograms like crazy with most wool pads. This is pretty much the same thing as continuing to buff once your polish goes clear.



I'm usually able to decrease the RPM when using wool. Most of the time I stay at or below 1.2k RPM. Going faster just results in more holograms and breaking the polish down *too* fast.



Make sure you're using a wool-friendly polish. The Menz line (all of them) are very wool friendly. The Optimum line is, too, with the exception of OHC. It specifically says to use foam. HiTemp's polishes work very well, too.
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I was using SIP. I did not use anymore SIP on the wool than I do on the foam. I suppose that could be an issue.



Thanks!
 
I've been using SIP with wool for about a year now. I like to fill up a four ounce bottle to about the three ounce line with SIP, then add a bit under half an ounce of PO106FF to it. The lubes in the 106 help to prevent wool induced holograms, and extend the working time of the SIP, which allows you to get a much better finish out of the SIP. Without the 106 added to it, I'm lucky to get four passes out of the SIP. Normally only three. I live in a very dry desert climate, though.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Make sure you're using a wool-friendly polish. The Menz line (all of them) are very wool friendly. The Optimum line is, too, with the exception of OHC. It specifically says to use foam. HiTemp's polishes work very well, too.
Click to expand...



Superbee the new OHC states you can use wool but I have tried it with an LC purple foamed wool pad and I don't like it as much as using OC with the wool pad. OC seems to finish out better with good cutting as well. But with foam pads OHC rocks. Just thought I would chime in on that.
 
DSVWGLI said:
Superbee the new OHC states you can use wool but I have tried it with an LC purple foamed wool pad and I don't like it as much as using OC with the wool pad. OC seems to finish out better with good cutting as well. But with foam pads OHC rocks. Just thought I would chime in on that.
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Cool, I didn't know that they changed the formula. My bottle is about a year old or so. I sure struggle with that stuff.
 
I don't see any real point to using wool pads unless your working on gel coat. Ive been using a rotary for around 6 years and the first 2 I was using wool/fabric pads, The switch to foam for me was a God send. Now I only pull them out for boats.
 
cj99si said:
I don't see any real point to using wool pads unless your working on gel coat. Ive been using a rotary for around 6 years and the first 2 I was using wool/fabric pads, The switch to foam for me was a God send. Now I only pull them out for boats.
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To get paint truely perfect you usually have to cut the paint pretty aggressively to remove any deep stuff that will show up once the car is highly polished. I prefer to cut or compound on a wool pad for the simple fact that I can remove more clear coat safely. Cutting with foam will generally heat the paint excessively which is a bad thing. Also, because wool does break down polish faster, it can save time as well. I generally use wool for anything above medium polishing as it is safer (IMO) and foam of light to meduim polishing, as well as finishing.
 
^Thats why I said for me. I personally I have no trouble with perfect results or time with foam pads, Everyone polishes a different way. I understand your points though.
 
Most people who dont like wool pads have usually only used cutting wool pads. These cut fast, add marring, swirls and holograms to the paint but remove imperfections quickly. On most paints these pads aren't required.



Softer polishing/finishing pads are the market are heaps better. Being softer they are less likely to add holograms. They are soft enough to not add any swirls when used with a light compound.



In my opinion, a polishing wool pad gives more cut and finishes better than a foam polishing pad. This allows me to remove more imperfections in the same number of steps or remove the same amount of imperfections in less steps.



I still use a soft finishing foam pad on the multi stage details on cars with soft paint. However everything else i use wool.
 
TTWAGN said:
Most people who dont like wool pads have usually only used cutting wool pads. These cut fast, add marring, swirls and holograms to the paint but remove imperfections quickly. On most paints these pads aren't required.



Softer polishing/finishing pads are the market are heaps better. Being softer they are less likely to add holograms. They are soft enough to not add any swirls when used with a light compound.



In my opinion, a polishing wool pad gives more cut and finishes better than a foam polishing pad. This allows me to remove more imperfections in the same number of steps or remove the same amount of imperfections in less steps.



I still use a soft finishing foam pad on the multi stage details on cars with soft paint. However everything else i use wool.
Click to expand...



will the wool pads you described work with a pc?
 
TTWAGN said:
Most people who dont like wool pads have usually only used cutting wool pads. These cut fast, add marring, swirls and holograms to the paint but remove imperfections quickly. On most paints these pads aren't required.



Softer polishing/finishing pads are the market are heaps better. Being softer they are less likely to add holograms. They are soft enough to not add any swirls when used with a light compound.



In my opinion, a polishing wool pad gives more cut and finishes better than a foam polishing pad. This allows me to remove more imperfections in the same number of steps or remove the same amount of imperfections in less steps.



I still use a soft finishing foam pad on the multi stage details on cars with soft paint. However everything else i use wool.
Click to expand...



If I coulda written these exact words, I would have. :)
 
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