The CR Spotless Water System (DIC-20)?

I have/use/like/recommend it. BUT...

-I seem to be in the minority; seems that most people buy `em and then quit using them in short order
-I don`t expect miracles from it; its output might be "spot-free" but any regular water or residual dirt that mixes with it (say..from nooks and crannies) will compromise that
-Mine isn`t a nuisance since I just leave it set up in the washbay all the time (same quick-connect fittings that are on all my other stuff)
-I`d only use it with a pressure washer
-Remember to get an input pressure limiter if you have decent/high water pressure (40psi or more IIRC)
-My resin lasts a long time since I only use the CRS for a quick final rinse and I run filtered/softened water through it
-That`s good since the resin is rather pricey, even when its on sale in bulk
-Mine leaks like a sieve despite attending to/replacing all the usual suspects

Dispatch- I really do worry that you`ll spend a bundle on it and consider it a waste of money in the long run. I simply *LOVE* mine and wouldn`t want to be without it, but that`s just me and I seldom use it other than in the winter. When I *do* use it, it`s basically just for a quickie pressure-rinse touchless, I don`t use it on a regular basis when doing a regular wash. But I guess a big part of that is my water being good enough, and my ages-long drying sessions thorough enough, that spotting isn`t a big issue for me.

The idea that you can wash your car (normally) and then solve the whole Drying/Spotting issue by just rinsing it quickly/easily with the CRS...eh, I dunno, I wouldn`t expect it to work like in the ad-copy...and !oh man! the price of that resin!
 
I think that the biggest trap people fall into when buying these is that they mistake a "filter" for a "deionizer." The CRS system is a deionizer that removes calcium and magnesium ions from the water to prevent spots during drying. It does NOT remove particulates, biologics or chlorine. If you pump trashy hose water into it, the device will deionize the water but the resin will expire very quickly. The tap water in New Mexico was so bad (1200-1600 ppm) that I only got about two washes/rinses per DIC20 refill. Not cost effective. I wised up and bought a dual membrane reverse osmosis system to pre filter the water going in and now I get roughly a year out of a DIC20 resin charge. The downside is that production is slow so I also have a pressurized 35 gallon storage tank for my DI water. I pressure wash, bucket wash and then rinse with DI water and the tank refills overnight. Problems solved. The RO system and tank paid for itself within the first three months.

- Patrick
 
Dispatch said:
You use the resin in both?

So exactly what you see is what you get?
Click to expand...
It is two different type of resins. CR and single tanks use a mixed bed resin. Each tank in the dual has a different type of resin, more efficient that way. System came exactly as pictured, loaded with resin.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
I`ve been thinking about getting one of these for awhile. I thought it would be nice for those times when it doesn`t rain and the car is just dusty. I see CRS now has a different one which looks like it may be two different resins https://crspotless.com/product/double-chuck-dark-blue/ . I was also thinking about this which is reverse osmosis https://www.spotfreesystem.com/ . Does anyone know if the filter system or the reverse osmosis system is any better as far as water quality goes?
 
DanHen- I only user RO water for non-Detailing things, but that`s some *VERY* clean water! Whole different ballgame than Deionized.

But a quick (OK, very quick :o ) look at the Spotfreesystem link didn`t show anything that looked like RO to me. RO systems use a membrane (which is replaced as needed) along with the (pre)filters. Maybe I just missed the info about the membranes...
 
I watched the video and he does talk about the membrane. It also has the small drain hose for the waste water. So, I`m pretty sure its an RO system. Drawback is the waste water at about 4 x the useable water but I think it would be cheap compared to buying the resins. It`s quite a bit more than the DI system but I think there would be an eventual payback compared to buying the resin.
 
DanHen- Ah, OK! Heh heh, that`s what I get for not watching the video :o

Yeah, our RO system does waste a *lot* of water but it doesn`t require much servicing. I hardly ever replace the membrane, not nearly as often as they say you oughta (not saying that`s good..).

Give a little thought to its output so you`re sure it`ll make enough fast enough for you.
 
Output should be fine. It makes 35 gallons a day and it has a 30 gallon tank. It has a pump to supply then supply the water from out of the tank to your hose. One advantage here is you don`t have to be concerned about keeping the water flow low. I can`t see using more than 10 gallons per car so I could wash 3 cars in one day which is about my limit. So you think the RO water is more pure than the DI water? I thought that was the case but wasn`t sure.
 
DaanHen- Well, I`m no real authority on this stuff so you might not oughta take *my* word as gospel :o The two are, just...different.

You`re not supposed to drink DI water but RO is fine...what`s that indicate?!? Is it that there`s something (still?) in the RO and removing all the ions (i.e., DEinonizing it) changes that? I just don`t know. Maybe the DI is *more* pure, more akin to Distilled (which isn`t good for drinking either). I`d expect either one to dry spot-free; I rinse some glassware in RO water and it doesn`t end up with waterspots and the DI water is spot-free on my vehicles (as long as I get all the *other* water gone first).

Hopefully somebody who actually knows from this stuff will chime in and school us.
 
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