Thank you Bryan Burnworth (aka gmblack3a) Surbufs ROCK!

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Deep Gloss Auto Salon

New member
Anyone that has followed Bryans work know that he achieves amazing correction using a PC and the Surbuf pads.



My curiosity (and search for the holy grail of all things detailing) got the best of me and I purchased several Surbuf pads.



The 2010 M3 that just left after getting a full correction didn't react as well as I would have hoped when using the Surbuf pads... no biggie, not one pad is going to react the same on all paints.



Today I decided to give them another whirl on a black Scuderia I am working on (think hard clear). One full pass with Surbuf using the G2 is producing some AMAZING results...



I'm having my lunch break ( love Jimmy Johns) and I just wanted to give some props for saving me some time this job!



Thanks Bryan
 
Ordered! I can't wait to finally try these on a 360 CS that I'll be doing in a week. Jason you should have came out to cars and coffee today, I got to meet Marc and Jacob. We've got to all get together and put on some kind of detail day soon. Happy Detailing.
 
Deep Gloss Auto Salon said:
Anyone that has followed Bryans work know that he achieves amazing correction using a PC and the Surbuf pads.



My curiosity (and search for the holy grail of all things detailing) got the best of me and I purchased several Surbuf pads.



The 2010 M3 that just left after getting a full correction didn't react as well as I would have hoped when using the Surbuf pads... no biggie, not one pad is going to react the same on all paints.



Today I decided to give them another whirl on a black Scuderia I am working on (think hard clear). One full pass with Surbuf using the G2 is producing some AMAZING results...



I'm having my lunch break ( love Jimmy Johns) and I just wanted to give some props for saving me some time this job!



Thanks Bryan
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Scuderia hard clear??? I think it's pretty darn soft. I'd love to see some pics using the Surbuf pads, I've never heard of them.



Thanks,



John
 
Shaun Carollo said:
Ordered! I can't wait to finally try these on a 360 CS that I'll be doing in a week. Jason you should have came out to cars and coffee today, I got to meet Marc and Jacob. We've got to all get together and put on some kind of detail day soon. Happy Detailing.
Click to expand...



I hope you like them as much I do....



I really wanted to go but there was just no way that was happening. I am booked so tight that if I fall behind my schedule will come tubling down like dominoes. Last year I told myself I wasn't going to book so aggressively..... Don't know what happened with that plan :nixweiss:shocked



I would love to meet up with the three of you, it would be a blast to host a detail day....



JohnKleven said:
Scuderia hard clear??? I think it's pretty darn soft. I'd love to see some pics using the Surbuf pads, I've never heard of them.



Thanks,



John
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Ya know, I am always intrigued at how different paints on the same vehicle make are reported to have different hardness by different people. I have often wondered if it is perception or true variation within a paint system???



I'll get a picture of one for you tomorrow



gmblack3a said:
Jason, You are most welcome.



Please let us know your process on each car and the color of the M3.
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Bryan, color???



You mean people pay to get colors detailed besides black???:grinno: That is all I get lately is black... Not that I am complaining.. I love black!



Process for Jet Black M3: M105/Orange (x's 2), SIP/White, 106ff/black, 85rd/Red



Process for Black Scuderia: M105/Surbuf, SIP/Tangerine Hydro, 106ff black, 85rd/black
 
JohnKleven said:
I'd love to see some pics using the Surbuf pads, I've never heard of them.



Thanks,



John
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Here's a pic John.. The pad is comprised of little micro fiber "fingers".. Similar to a wool pad.



Surbuf.jpg
 
These pads can definitely save you a ton of time, depending on what kind of paint you're working with. They're great for knocking down the defects and cut pretty fast. I did a paint correction on a hammered Porsche Cayman a couple weeks ago and the Surbuf pad was a lifesaver. I also worked on a hammered M3 the other day and it worked better than any other combo. I still had to go back and refine a few areas with the rotary, but these pads are a must have.



Depending on what polish you use them with, they create quite a bit of dust, but the benefits definitely outweigh the negatives. The other downfall is they only last about one car before they start falling apart. For that price, they're worth every penny for the amount of time you save!
 
Jason, My latest process is after surbuf/105 is to follow with orange/205 and then black/205. Both of the 205 steps can be worked very fast.



Dang Rick! You guys are the surbuf pad killers.:2thumbs: I use 4 pads on a car, changing them when I feel I can't clean them with a brush and compressed air enough. So maybe these pads are about done after 4 cars or so. So sounds about right.



If you are spritzing water on the surface while polishing to bring the polish out of the pad and back to the surface, you should not have that much dust. You will have dust when brushing and blowing the pad clean with air.



Here is the process from the link in my sig:



1. Do not prime the surbuf pad.

2. Apply 4 "larger then pea sized" dots of M105 to the pad.

3. Work the polish into an 12x12" area without turning on your PC.

4. Spritz the surface with water.

5. As in step 3, again work the polish around without turning on your PC, you are looking for a milky consistency.

6. Turn on PC and work the polish till it appears to dry.

7. Spritz more water onto the suface and continue to polish. What this does is bring the polish out of the pad and back to the surface.

8. I have found that you will need IPA sprayed onto your MF to remove the M105 from the surface.

9. Inspect and repeat if needed.



Notes:

If you find that one time is not enough to remove defects, you can always repeat #7 and keep on polishing.



After 2-3 sections, you will need to clean the pad by brushing off the pad and blowing out the excess polish with compressed air. After the pad becomes overly saturated w/ polish clean with warn water and some APC. Spin to dry. The pad does not have to be totally dry to use it again.



I have removed severe defects and 2000 grit wetsanding marks with this method.



Depedning on the hardness of the clear, you "might" be able to go right to M205 with a gray/black finishing pad via the KBM. Sometimes a middle step with M205/orange pad via KBM is required.
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I just used these on my Infiniti paint with SIP and i did see a lot of marring but it cleaned up very well with......................................believe it or not.......poli-seal.I even did 2 IPA wipedowns to make sure.
 
superchargedg said:
I just used these on my Infiniti paint with SIP and i did see a lot of marring but it cleaned up very well with......................................believe it or not.......poli-seal.I even did 2 IPA wipedowns to make sure.
Click to expand...



Unlike the SMAT polishes that are commonly used with the Surbuf (M105/205), SIP requires breaking down as it contains abrasives that break down. The problem with using SIP on a Surbuf pad is that it doesn't break down effectively. What happens is that due to the microfinger nature of the Surbuf pads, the polishing lubrication dries up before the abrasives can break down completely. This is why you get marring. This doesn't happen with polishes like M105 or M205 because these polishes do not break down [much]. With a bit of finnessing, I have managed to get M105 and Surbuf to finish without any marring or nicks on even some very soft paint.







Spritzing water to the pad during buffing will also help with SIP breaking down.
 
The surfbuf pads are definitely on top of my list for things to buy next! Thanks everyone for the great reviews. Keep those tough paint correction jobs coming woo wooooo!
 
After hearing all of Bryans talk, we purchased some a little over a month ago as well, but they're still in the package. Haven't come across anything hard enough (or with enough deep defects) to use them yet, but hearing more reviews from guys like Jason only makes me want to get a car that's hammered in soon!

Here's hoping and please post some pics of how you're liking the surbuf/105 combo!
 
gmblack3a said:
Jason, My latest process is after surbuf/105 is to follow with orange/205 and then black/205. Both of the 205 steps can be worked very fast.



Dang Rick! You guys are the surbuf pad killers.:2thumbs: I use 4 pads on a car, changing them when I feel I can't clean them with a brush and compressed air enough. So maybe these pads are about done after 4 cars or so. So sounds about right.



If you are spritzing water on the surface while polishing to bring the polish out of the pad and back to the surface, you should not have that much dust. You will have dust when brushing and blowing the pad clean with air.



Here is the process from the link in my sig:
Click to expand...



I've only used them on a handful of cars and really like them on hammered finishes. I think I was using way too much product on the Cayman, which is why I was getting so much dusting. The old M105 seemed to work much better than the new stuff for some reason.



On the M3 I detailed (super hard paint), I tried a few different combos using the rotary and the PC and the Surbuf was the only thing that was getting the job done. It was still a very time consuming job, but the Surbuf definitely saved a lot of time. I used it with SIP, which worked pretty well. I went over every panel twice and finished up with Power Finish using an orange pad on the PC.



It's basically like sanding the car with 6000 grit sandpaper. It looks so dull after using the Surbuf, but the haze is easily removed by an additional polishing step.
 
Rick, I have not used the new M105 in a while. I'd better get another gallon of the old as I only have about a quart left.



You don't need a lot of M105 with the surbuf pads. Start with the 4 pea sized dots. As long as you keep spritzing with water you can continue to work your area. No additional M105 is needed till you work the next area.
 
With the PC, (G110 in my case), do you guys use the 6.5" or the 4"? Ive gotten much better results with the normal 4" foam pads and didnt know if this was consistent with the surbuf or not.
 
craigdt said:
With the PC, (G110 in my case), do you guys use the 6.5" or the 4"? Ive gotten much better results with the normal 4" foam pads and didnt know if this was consistent with the surbuf or not.
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I have used 7" surbuf pads with a 6" BP for 90% of the surbuf use over the last year. They will cut fine. I have since bought some 6.5" and of course they work just as well. The only reason I would use a 4" surbuf is for tight areas. I still use a 4" orange LC foam for the tight areas.
 
I ordered mine last week and got them in; finally got a chance to use them on a 360 CS today and WOW! M105+SURBUF+Ferrari Clear=AWESOME. I would have never believed a pad and polish combo could knock down defects so quickly and with such little micro-marring as these. I was truly blown away at how good these pads are. Thank you to all who recommended these as I'm sure these will be in my selection forever.



THANK YOU!
 
Shaun Carollo said:
I ordered mine last week and got them in; finally got a chance to use them on a 360 CS today and WOW! M105+SURBUF+Ferrari Clear=AWESOME. I would have never believed a pad and polish combo could knock down defects so quickly and with such little micro-marring as these. I was truly blown away at how good these pads are. Thank you to all who recommended these as I'm sure these will be in my selection forever.



THANK YOU!
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Glad you like them Shaun...



Again, Bryan brought these to my attention:bow



What they leave behind is more like little tick marks that cleans up real easy!
 
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