Tell me how and when to use these products

M

Mustang19

New member
I just bought a 2019 Mustan GT in black and the paint has not been taken care of at all. Black is unforgiving as yall know, I can see swirl marks from basically every angle. There are holograms on the hood that you can see from 10 feet away lol. So, I used to "detail" my cars about 10 years ago but got away from it when I got married, had kids and switched to a more demanding job. So here we are now and I need to fix the paint.

Here is what I have:
RainX bug and tar
Meguiars gold class wash
Meguiars hybrid ceramic detailer clay kit
Meguiars ultimate compound
Meguiars ultimate polish
Chemical Guys jetseal
Meguiars hybrid ceramix wax

- I think I want to use these in the order listed, just not 100% sure. I think I need some Carpro IronX and Eraser to add in there, where do they fall in the process?
- I have watched a ton of videos from Pan the Organizer. I think I want to add Carpro Cquarts 3.0 ceramic. That would be isntead of the jetseal and ceramic wax, correct? I bought the chemical guys jetseal, but have not heard a lot of good things about it at this point.
- I also just got new wheels and already bought the Gyeon Rim ceramic coating I plan on using before they go on.
- Pan the Organizer did a video on basic polishers and I think Im going to need a polisher for this job. He recommended the Maxshine M8S, seems like it will work for what I need it to do.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Your order of what you have would be fine, although I`m not sure about the efficiency of using a Ceramic Detailer for claying when you`re (potentially) going to use compound and polish afterwards...but thats what comes with the kit, so I`m sure it will work fine as a clay lube. Eraser would come in after the polishing stage, to remove any oils leftover and ensure a good bond between the surface and whatever LSP you choose. Iron-X comes before you clay. You will be disappointed in Jet Seal. There are lots of better sealants on the market....Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax is a polymer based sealant, and is locally available, if that`s important to you...and, in my opinion, is better than Jet Seal. CQuartz would take the place of JetSeal and/or Ceramic Wax.

As far as choice of polisher.....invest in a Griots Garage G9...might be a little more than the MaxShine, but it has a lifetime warranty...Maxshine has a one year warranty.
 
Welcome, Mustang19 ! We hope you enjoy your time here.

The idea of using a claybar or a rubberized towel is to remove as much embedded gunk out of the paint before you correct it, so it will make the correction process easier and more efficient, in my experience.. You will need a claybar lube to do the claybar work, and it would be good to watch a -good- Detailer use one and explain how it works, how you have to knead the claybar once it loaded with gunk it removed from the paint, etc.. You would do better if you wear some nitrile gloves when using the claybar, so it doesn`t spend time removing dirt, oils, out of your hands, and just works on the paintwork..

Agree with above, chemical guys jetseal is not in the same league as some of the latest products even from Turtle Wax, etc.. The only things I ever purchase from those people is an inexpensive pad conditioner and a microfiber cleaner.. Nothing else..

Have you been watching good people use a random orbital machine properly for awhile ? You need to get the idea, and then go experiment possibly on another vehicle before you take on your black mustang, if possible.. Actually using a machine if you have never done it before is going to be much different than how it looks so easy on youtube..

We need to talk about pads, etc., for the actual work you are going to do.. I hope you stay away from c/guys stuff, and check this Autopia Site Store for Lake Country, or any other brand of flat 5.5" foam pads that are thin, and will allow the machine to rotate the pad easier, because pad rotation is what really makes the correction of paintwork..

You will need a lot of pads, 1 set for correction, 1 set for polishing.. We are talking around 6+ for each step in the process.. Then you need a foam pad cleaner to efficiently with little foam, clean them really great, and you don`t spend a whole lot of extra time, rinsing all the soap out of them.. Then, they need at least 24 hours to dry before you should use them again.. That`s how I do it and I have probably around 100 pads in my Shop cabinet..
Good luck with this !
Dan F
 
Mustang19- Welcome to Autopia!

You`ve already received great advice, not a whole lot I want to add other than...

Don`t *UNDERSPEND* on that polisher. You`ll end up hating the wrong unit and "wrong" generally relates to "underpowered" or to having a switch/trigger/configuration that just isn`t right for *YOU* (hence Stokdgs` great advice about "..if possible..").

Sometimes people think "I`m not a Pro, so I don`t need...[whatever].." when they shop for a polisher, but IMO that`s a *serious* mistake. Get the best (whatever that means to *you*) random orbital/dual action unit you can afford.

And take Stokdgs seriously when he says to buy all those pads; you won`t have too many ;) And skip ones with "dimples"/etc., just get flat pads and consider Microfiber pads for the more aggressive work, some of us love `em (and some of us don`t).
 
CQUK 3.0 is a great coating. If you are going to invest in it then skip the jet seal or hybrid ceramic wax as your base layer form of ptrotection. You could just get away with using the hybrid ceramic detailer as a drying aid/maintenance topper. I would consider investing in Cquartz Lite. The reason is you are more than likely going to have to polish again given that black paint shows everything. It is just as good as CQUK 3.0.

Eraser is used to prep before applying a coating with ironx used during the wash process.
 
Yall are probably correct about the Jeatseal, that is the one product I did very little research on just saw it on the shelf. I will be giving it away probably. As for the black paint, I have dealt with it before and it is a pain lol. I have also done my fair share of clay bar, used the Meguiars kit previously, whatever was out 10 years ago. Pretty simple job.

I also saw some videos and comments about the ceramic detailer and that really doesn`t make sense to me, seems like you don`t want to seal or wax before you compound and polish, so I probably will not be using that either.

Is there something specific I should get for a black car, such as the new Turtle Wax hybrid ceramic that`s for black cars?

RainX bug and tar
Meguiars gold class wash
Carpro Iron X
Meguiars clay
Meguiars ultimate compound
Meguiars ultimate polish
Carpro Eraser
CQUK 3.0
Meguiars hybrid ceramix wax

Does this look better? Should I use Reload or something different that the Meguiars hybrid ceramic wax? Where does something like Carpro Gliss or Skin come into play? That would take the place of the Meguiars wax as the last step correct?
 
Welcome! I first have to say, "you bought a black car, RUN"! JK. On that list of yours I have only used the compound and the polish. Now I didn`t see it mentioned but unless you have some deeper scratches I don`t think the compound it necessary, just my thoughts. The Ultimate Polish will work just fine. For a polisher I would recommend Griot`s Garage. I have one, think it is a gen 2, great polisher but haven`t used it at all since I got rid of my Camaro(black of course). I haven`t used any of the new ceramic coatings, I used Finish Kare FK1000p on the Camaro with success. Have a number of BlackFire products that work quite well also.
 
e01857554eeb38c7294c32270c1fc129.jpg



16 shadow black waring cquartz maintained with Polish Angel cosmic. Their was a layer of Overcoat on top but assuming that’s gone, it’s been over a year.

Mine was swirled something fierce when i got her. Griots Boss line worked well for me. Griots Correcting cream followed by Car Pros essence

Orange Boss pads with CC and yellows with essence. I would say 80-90 percent corrected.

33dc8d150dda0096d6842adecf3aa6c4.jpg

fbb6ed1e577bc2650499dc5ab269e875.jpg

This was right after done.

Best part is right after she’s washed up and purdy.... you’ll need to wipe her down with QD. I love her to death but 1st and last black car....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Coatings=crack said:
e01857554eeb38c7294c32270c1fc129.jpg



16 shadow black waring cquartz maintained with Polish Angel cosmic. Their was a layer of Overcoat on top but assuming that’s gone, it’s been over a year.

Mine was swirled something fierce when i got her. Griots Boss line worked well for me. Griots Correcting cream followed by Car Pros essence

Orange Boss pads with CC and yellows with essence. I would say 80-90 percent corrected.

33dc8d150dda0096d6842adecf3aa6c4.jpg

fbb6ed1e577bc2650499dc5ab269e875.jpg

This was right after done.

Best part is right after she’s washed up and purdy.... you’ll need to wipe her down with QD. I love her to death but 1st and last black car....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Amazing. Thats what Im shooting for. Black is a pain, but nothing looks better when its clean lol.
 
If OP owns the Megs Ceramic Detailer (w/ the clay kit), feel free to switch back and forth between that and Megs Ceramic Wax for maintenance after washes. The detailer is awesome.
 
Mustang19 said:
Yall are probably correct about the Jeatseal, that is the one product I did very little research on just saw it on the shelf. I will be giving it away probably. As for the black paint, I have dealt with it before and it is a pain lol. I have also done my fair share of clay bar, used the Meguiars kit previously, whatever was out 10 years ago. Pretty simple job.

I also saw some videos and comments about the ceramic detailer and that really doesn`t make sense to me, seems like you don`t want to seal or wax before you compound and polish, so I probably will not be using that either.

Is there something specific I should get for a black car, such as the new Turtle Wax hybrid ceramic that`s for black cars?

RainX bug and tar
Meguiars gold class wash
Carpro Iron X
Meguiars clay
Meguiars ultimate compound
Meguiars ultimate polish
Carpro Eraser
CQUK 3.0
Meguiars hybrid ceramix wax

Does this look better? Should I use Reload or something different that the Meguiars hybrid ceramic wax? Where does something like Carpro Gliss or Skin come into play? That would take the place of the Meguiars wax as the last step correct?
Click to expand...

Gliss is a top coat used over Cquartz coatings to not only add gloss and slickness but to also add better anti water spotting characteristics. If Gliss is used then there is no need to apply Reload to protect it from moisture during the curing time frame. Reload is there to protect the coating during the coating and I would not use Hybrid Ceramic Wax as it requires water and the Cquartz coating needs to be free from water until it is cured.

Are you referring to Gyeon Skin? If so that is similar and only available in the Syncro kit. If you are referring to Cquartz Skin well that is a completely different product which is designed for PPF and vinyl film.

I am not trying to sway you away from CQUK 3 but give Cquartz Lite a go first. The reason I say this is to get your washing technique in a better position to avoid getting swirls right away. You will also get multiple applications with cquartz lite. It`s base formula is CQUK 3.0.
 
The Guz said:
Gliss is a top coat used over Cquartz coatings to not only add gloss and slickness but to also add better anti water spotting characteristics. If Gliss is used then there is no need to apply Reload to protect it from moisture during the curing time frame. Reload is there to protect the coating during the coating and I would not use Hybrid Ceramic Wax as it requires water and the Cquartz coating needs to be free from water until it is cured.

Are you referring to Gyeon Skin? If so that is similar and only available in the Syncro kit. If you are referring to Cquartz Skin well that is a completely different product which is designed for PPF and vinyl film.

I am not trying to sway you away from CQUK 3 but give Cquartz Lite a go first. The reason I say this is to get your washing technique in a better position to avoid getting swirls right away. You will also get multiple applications with cquartz lite. It`s base formula is CQUK 3.0.
Click to expand...
I will try the Lite first, per your advice. I was thinking about the Gliss on top of the Lite, so I would not need any type of wax correct?
 
Welcome Mustang19

I hope you have alot of good towels.
I had a black Chevy and just wiping it during a wash or correcting it, she would swirl.
Yep lotsa towels. I had to throw away the ones I used for coating leveling too.
Some thin nap for removal, thick nap for wipe downs.
TheRagco. Here is a great place to start.
Good luck B)
 
One other piece of advice. Do not use a duster to wipe dust off the vehicle. When I first got my black Camaro(first and last black car, sold it) I bought a California duster, the cheaper plastic handled one I think it was sold at Walmart. I was using it and for the life of me I could not figure out where all my swirls and micro marring were coming from. I polished and wax car to the point of no swirls. After first a wash or 2 no swirls. I come home from work(dusty parking lot at work) and pulled out the duster and wiped the car down in the garage, I think I did it a couple times until the next wash and it was swirled up. I never used the duster after that. I didn`t need the polisher for a couple years after that.
 
Mustang19 said:
I will try the Lite first, per your advice. I was thinking about the Gliss on top of the Lite, so I would not need any type of wax correct?
Click to expand...

That is correct. Gliss will add that slickness to Lite. You can use the hybrid ceramic detailer as a maintenance product if you desire a drying aid.
 
Ok guys, I think I screwed up. I just got done doing everything up to the Jetseal because thats what I have on hand. I read on there that it should get wet for 12 hours. Does that mean I should wait 12 hours to put the Meguiar`s ceramic spray wax on? What if I already sprayed the hood with the wax lol? It does not seem to be coming off easily and leaving streaks.
 
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