Taking aluminum to autopian standard?

Thanks Tort, I been thinking of the name of the company for these products and i couldn't remember it. It's bring old memories for me and i just remember how dirty one gets. And Todd from your pic's it's looking great, just keep at it for that perfect mirror finish your looking for.
 
ok fellas one of the best products I have found for polishing aluminum is called Way 2 EZ polish. I have billet aluminum wheels on all of my trucks and this is the most handy stuff to have around.h. I have used it on heavily oxidized wheels and it take very little time to bring the finish back. Search it out and let me know what you think about.



I hope this does not come across as spam, I don't have alot of posts (I just recently joined) but this is a great product that everyone I have shown it to has been impressed.
 
Hey Todd,



For once, it looks like I'm giving you some advice. :lol I used to polish metal far before I started with paint, and I did it the hard way (Sanding bare metal, starting from as low as 320 grit, working my way to 2000, and finishing with a polishing cream). That method worked well, leaving most parts I worked on looking like they were chromed. For the record, my go-to LSP (polishing cream) was always Happich Simichrome polish.



Like some others stated, Caswell Plating has a myriad of products for you to use, as well as a metal finishing forum. The members are knowledgeable, and there are several threads with step-by-step tutorials for you to follow. Hope this helps!



- Marc
 
TH0001 said:
Thanks for the tip. Are the mother's polishes abrasive?
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I don't know for sure. I believe Mag & Aluminum is because is you use it by hand you usually notice polishing lines going in the same direction you were working in. If working by machine (Powerball on a corded drill for me) it leaves a better finish. If Billet is abrasive it's very mild since even by hand I never notice polishing lines.
 
Caswell carries an adapter for 5/8" rotaries. The adapter extends the arbor 3" and allows you to use 1/2" buffs. For aluminum, spiral sewn is the only way to go. Don't waste your time with loose buffs. I use tripoli on a denim spiral sewn after sanding down to 2000 grit, wipe the area down with acetone to remove traces of the tripoli, then white (can't remember the name) compound on a cotton spiral sewn. 6" buffs are the way to go. Make sure you cut a piece of old hose to cover the 3" extension on the adapter. Mothers Billet has worked well for me after compounding with the white. DO NOT POLISH IN SMALL CIRCLES after compounding....you'll end up marring the aluminum more than you polish. You want to use a back and forth motion over a large area. Another tip: instead of buffing the polish off, after you break it down, wash the polish off with soap and water and use a microfiber towel to dry the working area.
 
cushdrive said:
Don't waste your money, black compound is quicker and more consistent. PoorBoys Wheel Sealant is a godsend for bare aluminum however. After polishing of course.
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Amen to that. Totally underrated product. I use it on my uncoated aluminum wheel lips and it makes all the difference.
 
Todd...by looking at the welds on the heat shield on the muffler..I am willing to bet it is Stainless....the compound and rouge bars and a cotton sissal wheel from caswell plating will glass that right up...



the Stainless is most likely 300 grade and will be non magnetic...you can not tack aluminum to steel like shown on the last picture...on the cast outlet





Al
 
Great thread...too bad this wasn't around when I was detailing a Lotus Super 7. I've only had frustration with aluminum. One of my clients had all sorts of toys for aluminum polishing, and he recommended I read-up on the Eastwood Company for aluminum polishing supplies. Nevetheless, I had access to three different levels of rouge, a power drill set of polishing "balls" (something like this, just smaller: Felt Polishing Bob Set) and flitz metal polish. After hours of trying to use the rouge, I went to the flitz polish, a drill, and the polishing attachments and the results were better. This was on an F40-style wheel (on a Lotus elan). My biggest problem though were holograms. How can we prevent these when drill-buffing a wheel?
 
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